I have a S reg (1998) 1.3 mpi Felicia Lxi with 81,000 miles on the clock. It drives great and overall isn't in bad condition. However I just bought a lovely 1 owner from new Felicia same spec and age with only 30,000 miles on the clock for my dad. The engine sounds so smooth and quiet. How do I achieve the same from my older Felicia. I understand it's seen more use so I shouldn't expect perfection but at the same time there seems to be an abnormal amount of noise coming for the drive belt side of the engine. It almost sounds like a loud purr. The same noise does not exist on the newer one even with the bonnet up.

The other thing I've noticed is my Felicia comes very close to stalling when i give it some reves then then take my foot off the accelerator, the revs seem to dip below the idle point and then stabalise (nb it never actually stalls but 100% or the time when revving and removing my foot it does the dipping thing). My dad's new one doesn't do this either. Any idea of a fix?

Would really appreciate the help!

I've just compleated the 1 or two mods I planned to do to the car (tasteful of course) (black alloy rims and a decent induction system) will post pics and details when i get a chance.

The first thing you mention sounds like the timing chain rattling. Basically it is a very simple design with no tensioner and so after a while it becomes slack and rattles around inside the cover. It is diyable if you are skilled enough and have a day to spare but is a bit fiddly and involved tbh.

The second problem could be a few things really. I would start by making sure that you check the follwing:

Valve clearances

Spark plug condition/gaps

HT lead condition

Air filter condition

Recent oil/filter change?

Fuel filter ever been changed?

A common failing on this engine is the temperature sender on the thermostat housing fails and the ECU no longer recieved the signals from it so makes up how warm the engine is and so injects too much/too little fuel causing lumpy/poor running.

Also a leak on the vaccum can cause stalling under these situations. Check all hoses for holes/leaks.

Hope that helps.

Phil

Only other thing I would add to Phil's post is it may be worth cleaning the throttle body (carb cleaner). That should help with the revs falling when you take your foot off the gas pedal.

Not a lot to add to that except to suggest that, if you feel up to taking the rocker shaft off, you could check whether or not the tops of the pushrods are grooved, because that, if it happens, will make it pretty much impossible to set the tappet clearances correctly.

Hi all, thanks for the replies, very helpful, especially Phil. Can I ask, is there a way of making sure it's the timing chain making the noise and not something else? I just want to be certain before going ahead and take it to bits (or indeed buy bits for it!). I think i should be able to do it, I have do more extensive things myself in the past however any good guides to doing it you'd suggest i read (i have of course got a Hayes Manuel). Is it bad to not do it straight away if it is rattling?

in terms of the funny ideling. I replaced the thermostat and housing under a month ago (there was no readings being sent from it at all! It has had new sparks (correctly gaped), air filter, oil change fairly recently. How can i check my fuel filter and HT lead condition? Also how hard is the valve clearences to do? Reading in my manuel it baffeled me a bit!

Thanks again for all your suggestiong and help very useful!

oh ps anewman i haven't checked the throttle body yet so will have to have a look! Is it fairly easy to get off? (did my Volvo a month or two ago and that was child's play!)

I changed my fuel filter and the valve clearances on my old felicia ( i need to do it on my new one) but it is realtively straight forward although the manual baffled me as well.

For the fuel filter, it is hidden between the tank and exhaust so you will need to have it on ramps or axles to access it. It is a bit fiddly so I ended up removing the hose from the pump (located under the rear seats) to give me a bit more play under the car. you may need someone to help you to locate the correct hose and also to feed it back once replaced. You will also need to crimp the hoses to prevent any fuel leaking out. I think haynes says something about removing the negative on the battery as well.

For the valve clearances, you need to raise one of the front wheels off the ground and place the gear in 2nd. Remove the spark plugs, then remove the rocker cover and splash plate but put the bolt back once the plate has been removed. You then need to refer to the manual for the order in which to do the valves (page 1A.8) , Inlet valves need to be set at 0.25mm and exhaust valves at 0.2mm.

By following the order...so for valve 8 fully open (valve/tappet pushed into the engine) you will need to check and loosen/tighten valve 1.....etc etc.. To put the valves in the open position, simply rotate the wheel (clockwise as it is in forward gear). It can be tricky at first and you may need to rotate the wheel several times until you get the position correct but you will soon get the hang of it.

Edited 8 April, 201016 yr by skoda_dragon

Phil's already described the jobs I'd do first, and the order I'd do them in. Once you're sure the valve clearances, sparks and timing are right, then remaining excess noise is most likely to be wear. The part that is most likely to wear and rattle is the timing chain, and at 81_000 is apt to be due.

No idea about the throttle body on the 1.3 mpi felicia. I know in the 1.3 spi it's directly in the centre of the air filter box and easy to get at. It should be easy to identify and linked to the air filter and bolted on top of the inlet manifold anyway. I obtained a noticeable improvement cleaning my SPI throttle body without removing it in short bursts with the engine running.

Edited 8 April, 201016 yr by anewman

Not a lot to add to that except to suggest that, if you feel up to taking the rocker shaft off, you could check whether or not the tops of the pushrods are grooved, because that, if it happens, will make it pretty much impossible to set the tappet clearances correctly.

not that dificult...

tighten tapped adjusting screw until you feel resistance, then from that position loosen the screw 1/4 of a turn that will give you a .25mm (10thou) clearance needed for the intake valves (if they are alloy) and do the same for the others burt go back 1/5 of a turn that will give you a .20mm (8thou) clearance on the valve (iron pushrod) check the rockets for play, you should have little movement with no sound if you cant move them or you hear tapping re adjust.