Hello!

Firstly I would like to introduce myself, I am an Skoda fan from Spain: I have 2 RED Skoda: a 1980 Estelle 120ls and a 1990 Estelle 130GL.

Now I am busy trying to install a WEBER 40DCOE on the 130GL, and here is where I need your help:

Does anybody has any experience in this area ?

I have my doubts installing the part, not really installing it but how to connect the accelerator, choke, and spark advance on my new carb.

So please advise if you could give some advice on this matter.

I would like to thank you for your help in advance.

Brgds.

Alfonso

Edited 9 February, 201115 yr by ratfink

Have you got a manifold to fit it? If so, what type because the linkage you need will depend on whether its a banana type or straight. The choke will connect straight to your Skoda cable if you are using a banana manifold, but in all honesty I wouldnt bother you just burn tons of fuel and they have a habit of sticking on.

Its also worth mentioning that if your engine is standard, adding a DCOE will add lots of noise, make the car less drivable but probably wont add so much as a single horsepower. The DCOE is a great design but on a standard Skoda engine it is too much and will need professionally setting up. What chokes, jets, air jets and emulsion tubes has your's got fitted? If they arent something close to right you will spend lots of money getting it right or have to live with an undrivable car.

Have you got a manifold to fit it? If so, what type because the linkage you need will depend on whether its a banana type or straight. The choke will connect straight to your Skoda cable if you are using a banana manifold, but in all honesty I wouldnt bother you just burn tons of fuel and they have a habit of sticking on.

Its also worth mentioning that if your engine is standard, adding a DCOE will add lots of noise, make the car less drivable but probably wont add so much as a single horsepower. The DCOE is a great design but on a standard Skoda engine it is too much and will need professionally setting up. What chokes, jets, air jets and emulsion tubes has your's got fitted? If they arent something close to right you will spend lots of money getting it right or have to live with an undrivable car.

Many thanks for your help,I have a Banana manifold.

The accelarator cable can fit straight on and choke i guess, but my Jikov now has the spark advance conectted to it, and i do not know if i should do this on the WEBER.

But now i am quite disappointed because i was told it change the car much, but as your opinion only adds more noise.

Are you trying to tune the engine, or just replace the Jikov with something reliable?

In the latter case, I'd go for a Weber compound rather than a DCO. Weber UK (aka Webcon) used to make kits with a new carb ready jetted, and any linkage and air cleaner adapters needed for the application.

In the former case, you need way more than just a DCO. As above, you need a right manifold to keep the air path horizontal. YOu'll also ned the right exhaust manifold, and some head work, when you could be looking at about 120bhp (DIN flywheel).

Are you trying to tune the engine, or just replace the Jikov with something reliable?

In the latter case, I'd go for a Weber compound rather than a DCO. Weber UK (aka Webcon) used to make kits with a new carb ready jetted, and any linkage and air cleaner adapters needed for the application.

In the former case, you need way more than just a DCO. As above, you need a right manifold to keep the air path horizontal. YOu'll also ned the right exhaust manifold, and some head work, when you could be looking at about 120bhp (DIN flywheel).

I want to tune the engine a little bit, but this is just the begining.I really wanted to fit one of those kits, but so far i know there are out of stock now.

Are you trying to tune the engine, or just replace the Jikov with something reliable?

In the latter case, I'd go for a Weber compound rather than a DCO. Weber UK (aka Webcon) used to make kits with a new carb ready jetted, and any linkage and air cleaner adapters needed for the application.

In the former case, you need way more than just a DCO. As above, you need a right manifold to keep the air path horizontal. YOu'll also ned the right exhaust manifold, and some head work, when you could be looking at about 120bhp (DIN flywheel).

120bhp from a 130.....you'll be lucky! Ive managed 101bhp on mine so far....I believe the works cars were putting out 108bhp and they didnt last long and revved to stupid levels!

Ratfink.....DCOEs need set up, you cant just stick one on and hope it will work. If the one you have has come off a bigger engined car then theres a fair chance it will wash the bores of your engine with fuel. DCOEs have so many variables they can be very tricky to get right, they are also quite big for even a midly tuned engine.

When you refer to the spark advance on the Jikov, I have no idea what youre talking about! There is a wire that goes to an anti dieseling solenoid on the side of the Jikov.....you wont need that on anything other than the Jikov.

I would go with what Ken said and add a Weber downdraught to start and then add an exhaust, cam, head etc and do the DCOE later if you need it.

120bhp from a 130.....you'll be lucky! Ive managed 101bhp on mine so far....I believe the works cars were putting out 108bhp and they didnt last long and revved to stupid levels!

Ratfink.....DCOEs need set up, you cant just stick one on and hope it will work. If the one you have has come off a bigger engined car then theres a fair chance it will wash the bores of your engine with fuel. DCOEs have so many variables they can be very tricky to get right, they are also quite big for even a midly tuned engine.

When you refer to the spark advance on the Jikov, I have no idea what youre talking about! There is a wire that goes to an anti dieseling solenoid on the side of the Jikov.....you wont need that on anything other than the Jikov.

I would go with what Ken said and add a Weber downdraught to start and then add an exhaust, cam, head etc and do the DCOE later if you need it.

Sorry, what I meant was this anti dieseling solenoid, sorry my English is not good enough.

As I have the carb and all the stuff I have no more chance than going on with it, the WEBER is brand new. But now I have a clear idea what to do, I know a very good mechanic in Madrid with lots of experience installing Webers in FIAT engines and even in Minis and I think he's the one I need for the job.

I hope next week could I inform you about my sensations with the Car.

If I learn how to do it I will send you a picture of my cars.

Many thanks for all your help

You can forget about the wire for the anti-dieseling valve. DCOs don't have them.

Jetting a DCO right is a bit of a black art though, because you can change almost everything: ram pipe lengths, choke sizes, idle, main and acceleration jets, emulsion tubes, fuel level... I'm not having a pop at your guy; just giving you fair warning that it could take a while for him to get right.

But without one of the right manifolds to get the chokes horizontal and the fuel level correct, you'll never get the engine to run right, even with all the pther bits set up.

You can forget about the wire for the anti-dieseling valve. DCOs don't have them.

Jetting a DCO right is a bit of a black art though, because you can change almost everything: ram pipe lengths, choke sizes, idle, main and acceleration jets, emulsion tubes, fuel level... I'm not having a pop at your guy; just giving you fair warning that it could take a while for him to get right.

But without one of the right manifolds to get the chokes horizontal and the fuel level correct, you'll never get the engine to run right, even with all the pther bits set up.

Anyway I trust in this guy.He has done lots of good work with WEBERS on racing cars.

Maybe you know him: It's the european championship in racing trucks: Antonio Albacete.

I will keep you posted about my Skoda.

If he knows Webers then he will be fine....but I think you will be disappointed with the results. A 40 DCOE on its own wont do very much for the power and your car wont drive as well afterwards. Just dont throw the Jikov away and remember that 40 DCOEs go for good money on Ebay!

If he knows Webers then he will be fine....but I think you will be disappointed with the results. A 40 DCOE on its own wont do very much for the power and your car wont drive as well afterwards. Just dont throw the Jikov away and remember that 40 DCOEs go for good money on Ebay!

I will try to do the complete tuning, so the plan is from a 130GL end in a 130LR.

Much work ahead, but i think i will manage.

I will try to do the complete tuning, so the plan is from a 130GL end in a 130LR.

Much work ahead, but i think i will manage.

Start with an 8 port engine then....and take out a mortgage too!!

Edited 20 February, 201115 yr by Czech Bra Size

I was trying to avoid mention of twin 40s (which can even be jetted for smaller engines than a 1.3l).

Hello to all of you experts!

I am nearly ready to finish and I will need your advice again.

Where should I plug the rubber tube of the Servo Brake unit?

originally is plugged on the inlet manifold, but I do not want to make a hole on the manifold as I have been recommended.

Many thanks for your help.

Brgds.

Alfonso.

A car as late as your 130 has the 4-pot front calipers yes? If so, then why not try it without a servo? Yes, the brakes will be heavier, but you'll be surprised how much more feel they have.

Otherwise, I'm afraid the usual options are to drill the manifold, or install a secondary vacumn pump (which you could source off a diesel, but would need to sort out a drive for).

Drill a hole in the manifold.....it wont make any difference. Any other solution is mad!

When you actually get it working make sure you are getting full throttle....none of the 40 DCOEs Ive run have managed it without some tweaking of the set up.

Oh, and when you regret it due to the insane fuel consumption, poor response and rough running I would recommend fitting a 32/26 downdraught! :wonder:

Thanks to all for your help.

I will tell you how the results I get with the 40 DCOE.

I have to say my first option was to install a 26/28 DGAS, but my parts supplier in Germany did recommend my to go for the 40 DCOE.

Surely I will try the DGAS on my 120 LS when I finish this.

The 26/28 DGAS are not as easy to find, in Spain. So after spending about 400 GBP on WEBER + Manifold I have no other option than to go ahead with the 40.Because I am pretty sure nobody would pay me this money on Ebay for the spares.

I will keep you posted about how it goes ahead.

I'm not sure about the 26/28 DGAS specifically, or about Spanish market cars generally because I think they're more "Ford Germany" than "Ford UK" variants, but UK spec "S", "GT" and "Ghia" trim versions of the Ford Fiesta, Escort, Cortina/Taurus, Capri and Granada (plus carburetor V6 versions of Cortina/Taurus, Capri and Granada) often had a DGAS on them.

Yes I have read the DGAS where pretty common on Ford Capri / Taunus / Granada.

cars that where not common here. The variants with injection engine where much more common.

I was thinking of the 32/36 DGAV or 28/36 DCD they both ran very well, although the 28/36 didnt seem to fuel the top end enough.

What chokes has your 40 got fitted? For a standard engine you want the smallest you can find if you want any bottom end response.

The specification of my carb are:

30mm Chokes.

4.5 A/vents

115 mains

200 airs

45F9 idles

40 pumps

50 b/bleed

F11 E/tubes

175 N/valve

Brgds.

Alfonso

That doesnt look too bad.....should start and run ok.

Hello,

Im running a single 40 DCOE on an 8 port 136 engine (so essentially a similar set up to a 5 port engine).

Its jetted as follows:

Chokes 30mm

Main 125

Emulsion F9

Air corrector 170

Idle 50F9

Pump 50

Im also running a Kent SK3 camshaft, but apart from the lumnpy idle it picks up and runs very well.

Dont know what Peter is talking about rough running and poor response. Mine's great!

You may have to modify the throttle pedal (or at least the stop) to achieve full throttle. Some people just bend the top half of the pedal backwards slightly.

On a standard engine a 40 DCOE wont provide any real gains except in fuel consumption! They are also lumpy by comparison to a nicely jetted downdraught. Ive tried lots of carbs and even had my last DCOE professionally set up and it was ok, but not brilliant for day to day driving. Fine if you drive everywhere at half to full throttle.....but rough at light throttle and idle.

Oh and dont bend your pedal......if you take a good look you will see the throttle stop on the back can be easily crushed flat and provides another 2cm of travel which just covers it on most linkages.

Edited 9 March, 201115 yr by hawkeracing