Hi all, just cleaned my throttle body and noticed my accelerator cable isn't adjusted, it's just loose in the rubber grommit. I managed to find a circlip to replace the missing clip and set about adjusting it. The Haynes said to adjust so that when the pedal hits the floor the throttle meets its end stop which I did. Only problem is in that position the idle sits a whole load higher (15k revs) is that normal? I'm used to idle sitting just under 10k.

Have to admit the difference in throttle response was great!

What engine you got in yours? My 1.6 redlines at 5.5K! ;-)

I can see what Haynes mean; making sure you can actually get full throttle is the cheapest form of "tuning" there is.

If your hot idle speed is up at 1500 though, that means your throttle is always part-open and that's not right.

don't believe everything the haynes book of lies tells you, there's supposed to be some slack in the throttle cable to allow for the v60 idle motor to work properly

That's what I thought; adjust the cable until you've on the position that gives some slack, but would lose it all on the next "tightest" position.

When I adjusted mine recently, I was guided by the Haynes manual. I set it as best I could so that the butterfly valve was open at the widest point when the accelerator pedal was fully depressed -- what it said to do for MPi engines -- and then when the throttle was released there was a very small amount of slack and the butterfly valve was fully closed.

If the butterfly valve is closed and you're certain that none of the vacuum hoses are leaking, perhaps the ECU learned values need to be reset?

well I did clean the throttle body and butterfly valve in situ recently so it could be that that's giving the high idle (although I took the adjuster out and now it seems to be idling fine.) . if I remove the whole throttle body and clean it off the car will I need to replace any seals or gaskets? I figure ill give that another more extensive clean then adjust the throttle as suggested above. thanks for all the suggestions. out of interest i tried resetting the ecu by disconnecting the battery for an hour but am I right in saying it can take 24hours to reset?

Also just, a quick question gareth you mentioned vacum hose leaks. The value hose which connects to the throttle body cover on my engine doesn't have a jubilee clip or anything securing it, should it do? It's cliped on the rocker cover but not on the throttle body cover. Not sure if thats an issue but woul like to correct the idle and throttle response issues!

Ben, on our car there are two hoses that go to the neck of the oil filler cap part of the rocker cover. The larger diameter hose is push fit at both ends. The narrower hose is push fit at the rocker cover end but has a clip securing it at the inlet manifold end.

I don't know about the 24 hours to reset but that's the advice I have read - I'm not sure why it should be so long, as I imagine the issue is waiting for charge to drain away that is otherwise keeping the memorised values intact. I suppose people say 24 hours to allow a good margin to be sure that the ECU has been reset.

Ben, on our car there are two hoses that go to the neck of the oil filler cap part of the rocker cover. The larger diameter hose is push fit at both ends. The narrower hose is push fit at the rocker cover end but has a clip securing it at the inlet manifold end.

I don't know about the 24 hours to reset but that's the advice I have read - I'm not sure why it should be so long, as I imagine the issue is waiting for charge to drain away that is otherwise keeping the memorised values intact. I suppose people say 24 hours to allow a good margin to be sure that the ECU has been reset.

cool think the hoses seem healthy. must just be a very confused ecu or a dirty sensor, think ill give it a proper clean and reset the ecu. can anyone clarify if there's any kind of seal or gasket between the throttle body and the block?

I don't know about the 24 hours to reset but that's the advice I have read - I'm not sure why it should be so long, as I imagine the issue is waiting for charge to drain away that is otherwise keeping the memorised values intact. I suppose people say 24 hours to allow a good margin to be sure that the ECU has been reset.

On older Ford Focus' the quicker way to lose the residual charge and reset the ECU etc was to disconnect both leads from the battery and then connect them to each other for about 10 minutes or so. (usually with a single jump-lead)

It worked on my W-reg 2.0 Focus.

is there anything that holds any significant charge other than the battery? any bangs doing the above? I can see the bodgers logic in it.