Hi, Well yesterday for some unknown reason my fabia Vrs wont start. Its lightin up the dash and the fuel pump is priming but it just wont turn over. Anyone experienced this before??

Thanks

Hi, Well yesterday for some unknown reason my fabia Vrs wont start. Its lightin up the dash and the fuel pump is priming but it just wont turn over. Anyone experienced this before??

Thanks

Does it not even try and turn over? Could be the fairly common starter motor solenoid wire has snapped. Er... I think you should be able to see if you know where to look. I could go and try and take a picture if you like... you may need a torch though (it's underneath the battery)

edit: That was tricky!

You want to be looking down here. Put the car in 3rd gear, or if you've got small enough hands just pull the gear selector towards you.

You want to be looking at this plug to see if the wire on the end has snapped. Can't quite see the end of the wire in this picture unfortunately - I just couldn't get at that angle!

Edited 9 October, 201114 yr by mark.r.cullen

Ihad the same problem just 3 days after picking her up! Good job I bought from a dealer, RAC and warranty FTW :-)

Nope doesnt even try to turn over, and the battery is 100%.. Not the most mechanical minded person but thought it was likely to b a relay or something, but I bet ur right about the starter motor solenoid.. Thanks for the picture ill go check now, assuming these arent expensive and are relatively easy to fit?

and no unfortuantly my hands are not so small lol..

Edited 9 October, 201114 yr by steve-yfzracer

Nope doesnt even try to turn over, and the battery is 100%.. Not the most mechanical minded person but thought it was likely to b a relay or something, but I bet ur right about the starter motor solenoid.. Thanks for the picture ill go check now, assuming these arent expensive and are relatively easy to fit?

and no unfortuantly my hands are not so small lol..

If it's just the wire, it can be repaired. I'm not the most mechanically minded either. To repair it you will have to take the air box and battery out. Sounds daunting, but I managed it on my own without any problems

Where abouts are you located? If you don't feel confident perhaps someone on here close by might help you out for beer tokens

If it's just the wire, it can be repaired. I'm not the most mechanically minded either. To repair it you will have to take the air box and battery out. Sounds daunting, but I managed it on my own without any problems

Where abouts are you located? If you don't feel confident perhaps someone on here close by might help you out for beer tokens

Would take alot of beer tokens to fly someone over as im in N.Ireland lol.. Just checked and its just the wire yes, seems to have broke quite close to the solenoid, can it still b repaired?? As for removing the battery and airbox i can manage that:) just had the airbox out lol.. So its a matter of connecing the wire into the solonoid again, and wrap a bit of insulating tape on?? It doesnt need soldered I assume??

Anyway thanks for the help so far guys. Also why isnt this a sticky??

Would take alot of beer tokens to fly someone over as im in N.Ireland lol.. Just checked and its just the wire yes, seems to have broke quite close to the solenoid, can it still b repaired?? As for removing the battery and airbox i can manage that:) just had the airbox out lol.. So its a matter of connecing the wire into the solonoid again, and wrap a bit of insulating tape on?? It doesnt need soldered I assume??

Anyway thanks for the help so far guys. Also why isnt this a sticky??

Ah lol

It should still be possible to repair, but you may have to mangle the plug and do some soldering (I couldn't figure how to take the plug apart to get to the metal pin thing?). It depends if there's any usable wire left at the plug really. When it happened to me it was right at the end, so I had to dig a hole in the end of the plug and solder a new length of wire on. I wrapped tape around the choc block, of course...

I need to take a look at mine as it's still a bit dodgy somewhere and occasionally needs a wiggle (even though multimeter continuity checks out absolutely fine!). Don't let that put you off though as many have done it with no issues.

Should probably be a sticky really as I think it's fairly common, along with the alternator load sense wire, but I don't think anyone got any photo's of it before... so that might be why!

Edited 9 October, 201114 yr by mark.r.cullen

Mine did it aswel, take the battery and airbox and its easy to get to, a blue female spade connector pushes on if u dont use the original plug

Mine did it aswel, take the battery and airbox and its easy to get to, a blue female spade connector pushes on if u dont use the original plug

That's probably my next thing to try to solve my wiggle wire problem - any particular "size"?!

Jus some normal electrical wire, 14 or 28 core if u can wait till tuesday al pop u wire and connectors in the post 2morrow

Ah lol

It should still be possible to repair, but you may have to mangle the plug and do some soldering (I couldn't figure how to take the plug apart to get to the metal pin thing?). It depends if there's any usable wire left at the plug really. When it happened to me it was right at the end, so I had to dig a hole in the end of the plug and solder a new length of wire on. I wrapped tape around the choc block, of course...

I need to take a look at mine as it's still a bit dodgy somewhere and occasionally needs a wiggle (even though multimeter continuity checks out absolutely fine!). Don't let that put you off though as many have done it with no issues.

Should probably be a sticky really as I think it's fairly common, along with the alternator load sense wire, but I don't think anyone got any photo's of it before... so that might be why!

Mine did it aswel, take the battery and airbox and its easy to get to, a blue female spade connector pushes on if u dont use the original plug

That's probably my next thing to try to solve my wiggle wire problem - any particular "size"?!

Was cut off right up in the solenoid, impossible to reconnect it.. so like said above although I thought it was a revolutionary idea as i did it before reading the above lol, But yea as timestamp says a female spade connector pushes onto the end when you remove the solenoid complety, bit of wire out of it and connect it to the original wire. I also put a plastic sandwich bag over the connection and cable tied it on and insulating taped around where it meets the wire to keep water out..

So its now fixed, although going to try get a new solenoid as although yes it broke after 70k of vibrations, I feel the solenoid holds the connector over the male spade tightly, where as my fix has nothing holding it on bar the spade itself!

Anyone know if u can order the solenoid and wire itself?? Otherwise buying a solenoid will still require it needing wired in..

Hope this isnt too confusing lol, and If a mod could make this thread a sticky??

Thanks again for the help guys, saved me a mechanic bill

Okay so after a we look at the silonoid, the female spade comes out of the solenoid, their are two small holes either side of the female spade, stick something small ( i used 2 big needles) and then pull it out with the small pliers. the we white rubber seal comes out first to allow pliers in to pull the end out.. Now I just need to solder a new wire into this and reconnect it..

Hope this is of help to someone.

Okay so after a we look at the silonoid, the female spade comes out of the solenoid, their are two small holes either side of the female spade, stick something small ( i used 2 big needles) and then pull it out with the small pliers. the we white rubber seal comes out first to allow pliers in to pull the end out.. Now I just need to solder a new wire into this and reconnect it..

Hope this is of help to someone.

The wire is tight in the first place to avoid big swings of the wire when it vibrates. Use a good quality fine cored wire, the more supple the better. If you put a loop or slack in it, make sure there's nothing weighty also flopping about in the loop. Though a 1.9TDI is positively smooth compared to a FIAT 126, it only took a scotchlock connector on the distributor condensor to break the wire underneath the insulation in that case.

J.

Thanks to this thread, problem resolved with a 2007 VRS, thought VW might have ironed this problem out by now, ho hum, never mind, anyhow I noticed that whilst this problem existed, i.e the car wouldn't turn over the Immmobilser LED on the drivers door wasn't working either, car locked and unlocked OK but no led, bit of a red herring as logically IMHO the problem pointed to having been caused by a blown fuse.

I fit helps in any one else's diagnosis...

No start, no drivers door LED = very possibly broken wire to starter solenoid.

Thanks to this thread I managed to do a DIY repair cheers guys!