Ended up ripping it off, I no not good idea in ways to take it off, but any reason I should put it back on? As it's a pain to work on the car if any underneath needs changing ect, and I always drop tools in there[emoji16] [emoji16] [emoji16] ?

The undertray is secured using T15 & T25 Torx Screws. T15 on the sides and 4x T25 on the rear for future reference.

 

It protects the gubbins on the bottom of the engine, prevents stones and debris from hitting the sump and anything else inside the lower engine bay lots of pipework electricals etc etc.

 

It also smoothes out airflow under the front of the car. it prevents a certain amount water and salt at this time of year getting on all the gubbins.

 

It also has sound deadening design on the upper surface.

 

But i feel your pain, when you drop tools the always end up on it, and without raising the car a bit its difficult to reach all the screws as octys are quite low body wise.

It's only the two rear big "Screws" of some sorts that are broken, rest are in tact. So hopefully goes back on ok

Yeah Mine has one broken one, need a thread remover to get it out.

 

Good luck and safe when getting the car up high enough to refit it properly.

 

I would say its definitely worth re-fitting it, mine is covered in scrapes and chips where stuff has hit it rather then the engine.

good point Mike.

 

when replacing my IC taking all the covers off etc etc it definitely holds the wheel arch liners etc etc much tighter and stiffer.

My friend makes me a custom Alu rally style engine cover because every cover I used to have ended up same...broken to pieces.

My 4x4 has a steel under tray and its feckin heavy. Came in handy when I hit a delaminated lorry tyre though.

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Every time mine comes off for servicing, I make sure I spray the screws and speed/captive nuts with WD40. Have never had a problem getting them on or off doing this. The one on my estate was off just yesterday for an oil and filter change.

If you ever drop any tools down into the tray, all you need to do is remove one of the fog lights or blanks, and reach in to retrieve it. Far, far easier to do this than crawl underneath and take the tray off.

Personally I wouldn't take it off and leave it off, as it seems like the undertray actually supports the side mountings, which are part of the wheel arch liners. I may be wrong, but the wheel arches certainly don't seem as solid without the tray fitted.

Mike

What he said ^^^^

Edited 30 January, 201511 yr by sessions

Sniper, what does or could an alloy one cost and is it fitted to the same fixing points as the oem plastic cover?

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Sniper, what does or could an alloy one cost and is it fitted to the same fixing points as the oem plastic cover?

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I wanted a cover, which will protect engine (I drive in mountain very often) so it will be bolted/screwed to the frame...no PVC. My an other requirement is - when I crash...whole front with cover and engine must be disintegrated ;-)

 

Problem with stock cover is poor fitting points - especially in the front.

 

A custom cover costs about 400€ for me.

The metal tray on the 4x4 and Scout uses two additional mounting bars which run the width of the engine bay.  The torx screws along the sides just holds the wheel arch liners etc. in place.

hi guys can i still drive my car without the under guard? 

13 minutes ago, froggy8 said:

hi guys can i still drive my car without the under guard? 

 

Yes

2 minutes ago, Tech1e said:

 

Yes

thank you, it is still on but bit broke so was thinking about taking it off altogether.