Hi guys,

 

I'm the proud owner of a 1972 S100 of Romanian decent and in an orange-brown colour. I'm trying to fix it but I ran into some problems.

First of all is the key to start the engine with, it was stuck in the key contact but I managed to get it free with WD40. After replacing the dead battery I noticed that the battery didn't connect with the cables, I think it has someting to do with the earth. Anyway, the key doesn't turn anymore, does anyone know a solution for this? By the way, I have very little experience with classic Skoda's, just started to work on them so I'm still in the learning process! The key mechanism is the original FAB system and the key is FAB too. Also, if someone could explain me why they are several (starting?) options on the key contact that would be great!

 

Regards, Pepijn

The ignition system is so basic you can start the car without using the key with the removable terminals on the back of the ignition switch. They are the simplest cars in the world to work on but you're on the wrong site to get detailed information try here - https://www.facebook.com/groups/skodaownersclub/

The ignition barrel should work if you continue to put WD40 in it and move it - it will have a number of positions like any car - ready, ignition on, start being the usual 3 

48 minutes ago, petergarforth said:

The ignition system is so basic you can start the car without using the key with the removable terminals on the back of the ignition switch. They are the simplest cars in the world to work on but you're on the wrong site to get detailed information try here - https://www.facebook.com/groups/skodaownersclub/

The ignition barrel should work if you continue to put WD40 in it and move it - it will have a number of positions like any car - ready, ignition on, start being the usual 3 

 

Thank you! It really brings confidence saying that these cars are one of the easiest in the world to work on. Also, thank you very much for the hyperlink, hopefully it'll be very useful for me!

You will also still be able to get an ignition barrel for it - www.skopart.de 

@S100_72 - Ref the "several (starting?) options on the key contact" I would guess you mean on the ignition barrel rather than on the key?

 

If so, then:-

0) Electrics off other than permanently wired circuits like sidelights and indicators (and hazard flashers if fitted). This is also the position where the steering lock can become armed. When this happens, the locking pawl may press against the side of its slot in the steering column, and when that happens it can be difficult to turn the key to release it. Try wiggling the steering wheel and turning the key together.

1) Accessories - This will enable use of devices such as a radio, if fitted.

2) Ignition on - At this point you should see lights such as the battery and oil pressure lights, and any electrically powered gauges (eg voltmeter) should move off their bottom stops.

3) Start - You should only be able to reach this position by turning the key from (2) against a spring pressure, which will push it back to (2). In this position, even if the engine won't start, you should hear the starter motor spinning, and maybe turning the engine.

57 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

@S100_72 - Ref the "several (starting?) options on the key contact" I would guess you mean on the ignition barrel rather than on the key?

 

If so, then:-

0) Electrics off other than permanently wired circuits like sidelights and indicators (and hazard flashers if fitted). This is also the position where the steering lock can become armed. When this happens, the locking pawl may press against the side of its slot in the steering column, and when that happens it can be difficult to turn the key to release it. Try wiggling the steering wheel and turning the key together.

1) Accessories - This will enable use of devices such as a radio, if fitted.

2) Ignition on - At this point you should see lights such as the battery and oil pressure lights, and any electrically powered gauges (eg voltmeter) should move off their bottom stops.

3) Start - You should only be able to reach this position by turning the key from (2) against a spring pressure, which will push it back to (2). In this position, even if the engine won't start, you should hear the starter motor spinning, and maybe turning the engine.

Thank you! That actually makes a lot of sense. And yes, I did mean the ignition barrel, couldn't find the proper English translation for it. I guess I got confused because in most modern cars it isn't actually labelled with numbers what all the ignition options do. Hopefully the key will turn with some more WD40, right now I'm replacing the positive cable on the battery, since it didn't connect properly to the engine. Cheers guys!

Edited 18 August, 20178 yr by S100_72

@S100_72 - That's another reason for filling in your location; We can sometimes help more if we know your locality and first language. Note (0) in my last, where I discuss how to release a steering lock.

NO NO NO!!!!

 

Never ever put WD or CRC or any other brand light penetrating oil or similar fluid in to a lock barrel, you will flush all dirt inside the lock deeper and eventually jam the parts solid!

 

If one wants to lubricate a lock barrel, please use good quality gun oil and apply it 1 drop on to the key and wipe it off with a clean cloth once key is inserted in lock barrel once or twice. This could be repeated no more than once a year.

 

If the lock is already jamming while in use, there is a good chance one might have to dismantle it and clean all the parts.

Alright, my dad helped me out quite a bit and yesterday we got the car driving! To make good use of this occasion, we also drained the oil since it was very thick and needed to be replaced. However, does anyone know what type of oil to use and how much exactly? My Haynes manual is still on its way and I can't seem to find the answer on the internet...

20w50 - 4.5 litres if you empty the whole system