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Weber 32/36 DGV on a 742.12X


Iris_Heart

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Sorry for flooding the board with dumb questions, but does anyone have any experience with running a  Weber 32/36 DGV in place of the Jikov in an estelle/120?

I gave up with my Jikov and decided to take the cheap and easy way out with a Weber instead of fixing the Jikov that ran way too rich for inspection.

Winter is a fleeting thing in our warming planet and I need to send the Škoda sideways into a tree while I still can, so weber goes in and I'd need to jet it.

The stock idle jets apparently are about the same aize as in the Jikov, but I don't know if that matters because everything else is different in the carb and the brand new Weber I am getting has stock factory setup apparently for a larger engine.

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32/36 DGV drops straight in to the factory intake, have to cut a small slot and file away a bit of the throttle cable holder bracket to clear out the 2nd throat and throttle plate arm, have to take the throttle linkage arm or whatever it's called from the Jikov, but it also slots straight in to the Weber, no modifications required whatsoever.

I have a suspicion that the factory airfilter housing could be rigged into place with a solex adapter plate, I just stretched the throttle return spring that goes originally to the airfilter housing to the valve cover wtud and tightened it down with a washer and nut.

 

Currently I believe the factory jets are Idle jets 55 and 50. Main jets 140 and 135. Emulsion tubes F50 and F6. Air jets 165 and 160. If I read the website correct, these are for a 1600cc Ford Escort.

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Runs like **** with these jettings, unsurprisingly.

It idles well and all, but the moment you get on the throttle hard it overfloods and dies, have to carefully step on the gas till you get out from the idle jets, believe the main jets are a tad too big, will have to report back once I manage to swap them out for smaller ones.

I swapped the idle jets from 55-50 to 45-40 and it seems like it idles a bit better with these, but can't say for sure till I get it hooked up to an emissions tester.

Original Jikov gave me a co% of 14% or so, legal limit was I think 4%, so it was way out of line. Weber with the 55-50 idle jets gave me 7.8% co% was it, but my ignition was off and the fuel mixture was barely adjusted to be able to drive, asked the inspector if I could try attacking the carb with a screwdriver while he takes the emissions, he was okay with it, then handed the car to some other inspector who drove off with it and came back with a failed emissions slip. I was prepared to use violence at that moment.

 

Dunno about fuel economy yet as I haven't been able to test it properly, top end power is amazing though. Might be because the Jikov ran so poorly so I don't have agood reference point, might be due to the oversized main jets, but the thing hauls ass and at 60kmh on 3rd gear you have to mind your foot or you'll be sending the thing sideways, absolute blast on back roads though. My 1.6 Honda Civic feels like a slouch compared to the Skoda despite having more horsepower from a more modern engine.

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Well there is a undoubtedly good way od adjusting carbs. 

Remove spark plugs clean them, 

Let the car idle for 10 mind or so. 

Take a look, adjust idle mixture, 

Then clean again and drive with low rpm take a look and adjust. 

Then clean again drive with medium rpm (transfer ports) take a look adjust. 

Then mid high rpm then wot. 

This is the way I got perfect jetting for dirt bikes and stuff. 

Also keep in mind that advancing while rich will give you greater benefit, because rich charge cools the combustion chamber giving you more room for spark advance. 

Edited by Thefeliciahacker
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  • 2 weeks later...

Aight so with a 40 45 idle jets the car passes Finnish emissions testing with a co% of about 4 at 1k rpm, barely legal but my engine has seen better days, lambda values were under 500 too so it's all good, just requires extremely FINE tuning before taking it to the MOT or whatever the official inspection is called.

Due to being a 1982 car, they only test idle emissions, the 125 130 main jets seem to run a bit smoother, but also seems to lose a bit of punch, it really livens up at 4k rpm and starts to lose punch at 5k, but for those 1000 rpm.

Only issue is that from what I've heard, the throttles are physically a bit too large for the engine, thus it tends to bog down if you start moving and only feather the gas, you need to rev it a bit higher to not stall.

 

Anyone looking for a replacement carburetor, the 32/36DGV is a straight swap, if money is a bit tight, FAJS makes clones of it that are apparently quite okay for half the price, the jet threads are physically larger in those though so official weber jets don't fit.

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1 hour ago, Iris_Heart said:

just requires extremely FINE tuning before taking it to the MOT or whatever the official inspection is

Might I suggest checking the tappet clearances carefully, then the points gap and plug gaps, then set the distributor angle to get the fastest hot idle with the engine running, then bring the idle speed back down with the idle adjustment screw?

Edited by KenONeill
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Was done and done before I even got the weber in place, someone told me that you'd need to run more advance from the distributor, but the manual stated 10 degrees was enough for it to run like a champ.

I set everything according to haynes and it passed inspections without much issues, managed to get it adjusted within spec just about, but as I mentioned this engine has seen better days and my exhausts are both extremely leaky.

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