Iris_Heart

Was leaving work the other day in my 120GLS ultimate hoon machine, fairly casually (sideways) when suddenly I lost all momentum. Engine kept running, gears seemed to go in properly, no movement. Took a taxi home and went back to tow the ****box home with my truck. Engine out and was pleasantly surprised that it was only the clutch that got battered, yet am baffled how this could happen. Despite drifting the thing almost daily, it's all done during winter and on snow/ice, so the clutch shouldn't see too much abuse, never had a clutch explode like this anyway. Anyone know of any stouter 190mm clutches for a Typ 742 that would fit or do I just grab a new similar one off the shelf and hope the next one won't crap out on me? The car is Felicia swapped, used to be a regular 136M MPi engine that I converted to carb and dizzy, but I doubt a barely 10hp bump in power is enough to cause this kind of destruction.

The ultimate hoon machine.

@R_Blue @J.R. If you're prepared for some proper redneck engineering then you can boost almost any carb with a pressure cooker stolen from mums cabinet. You just cut holes for the carb to sit at the bottom and drill holes for the linkages, bolt the unholy contraption to your intake and hope your float and needle valve hold on to dear life as you try to cram 50psi down the throat of a poor chinese Weber clone. It "works" for a while, but isn't definitely something I'd like to take on the road. Mate of mine did this kind of setup on his Opel Ascona C ice ring racer. It held on long enough for him to flip the car on a dirt road

Aighty so I got myself a Skoda Favorit as a donor vehicle for the engine and it's got a 135B engine in it with what I think is single point throttle body injection. I was planning on putting this lump in the back of my 120GLS and was wondering what are the differences between this and the 136 engines, I know the 136 has slightly more power due to higher compression, but is it the same deal as with the 120 that it's just higher compression pistons and that's it? I think I heard someone mention that the heads in the 136 were a bit different and that the 136X had a different camshaft than the rest. I think I heard someone mention that the 136 had valve stem seals, but have no idea yet if the 135 has them or is it the same old "drill them straight through the head and hope for the best" as in the RWD Skodas? Also, is there any way to trick the ECU into sending more fuel into the engine? If this is a low compression engine, we have to force feed it air through either a turbo or a supercharger obviously.

So the alternator of my 120GLS gave up the spirit and stopped charging, changing the brushes is a no go because it is rusted shut tight, so I chucked it into the side and took an AC DELCO 10SI alternator I had left over from the days when I thought American cars were good. The AC DELCO 10SI fits into the alternator bracket perfectly, but the adjustment rail does not because the 10SI has mounts in the 12 and 6 o'clock positions, the pal magnetron or whatever had them in the "I'm not done eating" positions I think. What you can do is take a piece of scrap metal, bolt it to the 12 o'clock ear, lean it against the alternator body and bolt it to the adjustment rail. Belt tension now can be adjusted by pivoting the whole rail instead, I do it that way instead of sliding it on the rail because my alternators somehow tend to slide to the end of the rail anyway for some reason, even the original one. Wiring it is stupid simple, I am stupid and simple and managed to figure it out anyway. The 10SI has only 2 wires, 3 if you count the positive cable goung to the starter solenoid. The 2 pins at the top of the alternator in the voltage regulator should be labelled 1 and 2. You can run wires from the Škoda voltage regulator straight to the alternator, shouldn't break anything. You might mix up the wires though because I had no idea which one goes where. If the alternator charges less than 14 volts, you got them backwards, flip them around. Or you can just run the wire from pin number 2 to the positive terminal that hoes to the starter solenoid, pin 2 is only used to tell the alternator when to charge. It shouldn't matter which one of the original voltage regulator wires goes to pin 1, at least for me both triggered the idiot light, I believe it's only used to excite the alternator. You probably could fo away with the whole external regulator and run just some random 12v line to pin number 1, as long as the wire gets 12v when accessory power is on and shuts off when it should. Tl;dr AC DELCO 10SI fits into a Skoda 742 105/120/Estelle with one simple modification

Aight enough faffing around, made this monstrosity. Bottom plate is 74mm, 2 pieces of wood on the head under the "ears" and spin to win, liner comes out without a hitch. I'm going to cut the disk into a pill shape so it doesn't interfere with the block and it's going to be golden

@KenONeillPardon me if I'm wrong, but are these not wet liners due to being "wet" with coolant on the outside? From what I've learned, dry lines are straight contact to block with no water passage around them, the water coursing through the block instead. I managed to wrestle one of the liners out with WD40, blowtorch, sledge and a cold chisel, obviously the liners were scored which doesn't matter on the junker engine, but this is not an option on the better engine I am supposed to try and overhaul. @Thefeliciahacker I can only hope it's that easy on the better engine. Fitting one of those liner pullers seems to be an ordeal too due to how tight and flush the liners sit in the crank case, not much for the puller to grab on to. My uncle who worked on these things back in the day told me to just pour diesel around the liners and leave it for the night to get them moving if they're stuck, diesel seems to be his go to solution for all problems in the world. Might try that too.

So the time has come to pull the cylinder liners from my 120 to shim them and get them all level to keep oil and coolant from meeting up. I have a junker engine from a 83 onwards model that I practiced the job on, I managed to disassemble pretty much everything else except the liners as they just won't budge for the life of me. I remember reading somewhere that they'd be held in place by a screw somewhere, but I doubt these are held on by anything else except rust and spite towards my goals. Is there any fancy trick to pulling them or something I am missing? I've tried whacking their underside with a frozen willow log and a rubber mallet, no joy aside for turning the log into tinder. Haynes manual is no use as it doesn't list removing the liners anywhere, only putting them back into place with "thumb pressure" which leads me to believe they just kinda are there and held in place by the cylinder head.

Was done and done before I even got the weber in place, someone told me that you'd need to run more advance from the distributor, but the manual stated 10 degrees was enough for it to run like a champ. I set everything according to haynes and it passed inspections without much issues, managed to get it adjusted within spec just about, but as I mentioned this engine has seen better days and my exhausts are both extremely leaky.

Aight so with a 40 45 idle jets the car passes Finnish emissions testing with a co% of about 4 at 1k rpm, barely legal but my engine has seen better days, lambda values were under 500 too so it's all good, just requires extremely FINE tuning before taking it to the MOT or whatever the official inspection is called. Due to being a 1982 car, they only test idle emissions, the 125 130 main jets seem to run a bit smoother, but also seems to lose a bit of punch, it really livens up at 4k rpm and starts to lose punch at 5k, but for those 1000 rpm. Only issue is that from what I've heard, the throttles are physically a bit too large for the engine, thus it tends to bog down if you start moving and only feather the gas, you need to rev it a bit higher to not stall. Anyone looking for a replacement carburetor, the 32/36DGV is a straight swap, if money is a bit tight, FAJS makes clones of it that are apparently quite okay for half the price, the jet threads are physically larger in those though so official weber jets don't fit.

Runs like **** with these jettings, unsurprisingly. It idles well and all, but the moment you get on the throttle hard it overfloods and dies, have to carefully step on the gas till you get out from the idle jets, believe the main jets are a tad too big, will have to report back once I manage to swap them out for smaller ones. I swapped the idle jets from 55-50 to 45-40 and it seems like it idles a bit better with these, but can't say for sure till I get it hooked up to an emissions tester. Original Jikov gave me a co% of 14% or so, legal limit was I think 4%, so it was way out of line. Weber with the 55-50 idle jets gave me 7.8% co% was it, but my ignition was off and the fuel mixture was barely adjusted to be able to drive, asked the inspector if I could try attacking the carb with a screwdriver while he takes the emissions, he was okay with it, then handed the car to some other inspector who drove off with it and came back with a failed emissions slip. I was prepared to use violence at that moment. Dunno about fuel economy yet as I haven't been able to test it properly, top end power is amazing though. Might be because the Jikov ran so poorly so I don't have agood reference point, might be due to the oversized main jets, but the thing hauls ass and at 60kmh on 3rd gear you have to mind your foot or you'll be sending the thing sideways, absolute blast on back roads though. My 1.6 Honda Civic feels like a slouch compared to the Skoda despite having more horsepower from a more modern engine.

32/36 DGV drops straight in to the factory intake, have to cut a small slot and file away a bit of the throttle cable holder bracket to clear out the 2nd throat and throttle plate arm, have to take the throttle linkage arm or whatever it's called from the Jikov, but it also slots straight in to the Weber, no modifications required whatsoever. I have a suspicion that the factory airfilter housing could be rigged into place with a solex adapter plate, I just stretched the throttle return spring that goes originally to the airfilter housing to the valve cover wtud and tightened it down with a washer and nut. Currently I believe the factory jets are Idle jets 55 and 50. Main jets 140 and 135. Emulsion tubes F50 and F6. Air jets 165 and 160. If I read the website correct, these are for a 1600cc Ford Escort.

Update to this one, favorit servo wouldn't fit for the 120, found an intact servo from a junker car. I guess for replacement one could use those American 7" universal servos with a threaded rod for a pedal shaft and just cut the shaft and fit the pedal loop with a thread adaptor. Also apparently a lot of the aftermarket brake master cylinders aren't all that good for the Skodas, their piston travel is too long when compared to the originals it seems.

Sorry for flooding the board with dumb questions, but does anyone have any experience with running a Weber 32/36 DGV in place of the Jikov in an estelle/120? I gave up with my Jikov and decided to take the cheap and easy way out with a Weber instead of fixing the Jikov that ran way too rich for inspection. Winter is a fleeting thing in our warming planet and I need to send the Škoda sideways into a tree while I still can, so weber goes in and I'd need to jet it. The stock idle jets apparently are about the same aize as in the Jikov, but I don't know if that matters because everything else is different in the carb and the brand new Weber I am getting has stock factory setup apparently for a larger engine.

I am not a very intelligent person. The previous valve snapped, drilled it out and managed to preserve the opd threads, chased them out but they didn't really hold and offed themselves when tightening the new valve. I bought some thingy, like a bolt that goes through and you tighten a new bleed valve to that as the threads are completely shot in my cylinder. Other option would be a ball bearing and drill out the hole for a bigger bolt