So i was driving it the other day, i put it into second and it lost all boost. It’s remapped to stage one with EGR delete. 

I keep loosing my power steering on and off and the engine struggles to start.

I plugged in an OBD and it came up with four things, one being the glow plugs and one being the wastegate solenoid.

I am so puzzled and it’s struggling to run at the minute.

Edited 1 September, 20223 yr by cheezemonkhai

For the power steering, it's probably a good idea to have a very close look at the strip fuse for it in the fusebox on top of the battery. These can crack, sometimes almost invisibly, leading to intermittent connection of the main power feed to the pump motor.

In your car it's in position 5 of the strip fuses (1-6, left to right as viewed from in front of the car looking into the engine bay).

 

Exact fault numbers may be useful if you still have the info, or the OBD tool?

 

 

If you're seeing a lot of random, seemingly unrelated issues my first port of call would be to check the battery and if it's very old or weak then to change it for a new one. A lot of sensors really don't like it when batteries are on their last legs or flat and start coming up with errors.

 

Once you've done that (If it's weak as it's coming up to winter anyway), then clear the fault codes and see what comes back.

Those will then be the ones to concentrate on.

 

The wastegate solenoid and the turbo are entirely possible to be related, but if the battery is making the solenoid sensor report bad data the turbo will cut out too thinking there is an error that might not be there.

5 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

For the power steering, it's probably a good idea to have a very close look at the strip fuse for it in the fusebox on top of the battery. These can crack, sometimes almost invisibly, leading to intermittent connection of the main power feed to the pump motor.

In your car it's in position 5 of the strip fuses (1-6, left to right as viewed from in front of the car looking into the engine bay).

 

Exact fault numbers may be useful if you still have the info, or the OBD tool?

 

 

thankyou i’ll have a look at the battery and possibly try a new one?

5 hours ago, cheezemonkhai said:

If you're seeing a lot of random, seemingly unrelated issues my first port of call would be to check the battery and if it's very old or weak then to change it for a new one. A lot of sensors really don't like it when batteries are on their last legs or flat and start coming up with errors.

 

Once you've done that (If it's weak as it's coming up to winter anyway), then clear the fault codes and see what comes back.

Those will then be the ones to concentrate on.

 

The wastegate solenoid and the turbo are entirely possible to be related, but if the battery is making the solenoid sensor report bad data the turbo will cut out too thinking there is an error that might not be there.

How would i check the battery?

6 hours ago, ellabrooks said:

So i was driving it the other day, i put it into second and it lost all boost. It’s remapped to stage one with EGR delete. 

I keep loosing my power steering on and off and the engine struggles to start.

I plugged in an OBD and it came up with four things, one being the glow plugs and one being the wastegate solenoid.

I am so puzzled and it’s struggling to run at the minute.

Another issue was the engine speed input circuit no signal. The fourth was just obviously my exhaust because it’s mapped.

If you meant to write fuse, then yes, please do inspect. Take a photo and post it here if unsure of its condition.

 

Trouble with engine speed (crank angle) sensor could well be related to starting/running problems. Inspect wiring near connector as a first step. Down behind oil cooler, I think.

 

 

 

50 minutes ago, ellabrooks said:

How would i check the battery?

A decent garage or fast fit place (so not Kwik Krap or Halfrauds) will do it for free, on the understanding that they get the business if you need a replacement.

1 hour ago, ellabrooks said:

How would i check the battery?

Halfords will do it for free usually and most decent garages will do a check, but may charge.

 

They just put a tester on a battery, but the ones that just say good/bad without a percentage should be ignored.

 

To be honest a new battery on that car is probably cheaper than paying someone to check it. 

24 minutes ago, cheezemonkhai said:

Halfords will do it for free usually

 

....and tell you it's knackered even if it isn't

10 hours ago, TMB said:

 

....and tell you it's knackered even if it isn't

Depends, but I ask to see the print out/screen. I have a battery tester now, but ignore the good and look at the numbers.

 

EDIT:

 

It is worth saying, that once you've found the correct numbers from the battery, then plumbed them in, then done the test it's not easy.

You have to consider is the battery connected, temperature and a number of other factors, plus what the car is likely to need to crank.

 

My last battery was showing good, but only 67% capacity, which might be ok for certain jobs, but certainly not ok for cranking a diesel in winter. I got the first hint when it took a bit too long to crank the engine on a cooler day, but was fine on a warmer morning, then bad again as it cooled even though I'd charged it.

Sure enough new battery, which I charged before swapping started on the dot and stopped a couple of odd behaviors that I'd seen once or twice. When sensors use 12V as a reference voltage and it isn't quite 12V that they're getting things can get really odd, really quick.

Edited 2 September, 20223 yr by cheezemonkhai