Got a Vrs 2 weeks back and so far, so good. 150 000 miles, all stock, very good condition overall. Needs a new thermostat and I'm getting the cambelt done next week. Should I get the cambelt garage to do the thermostat for me? It appears they'll be down that way and have to change the coolant anyways... ..and although I can handle it, it may be best to let the professionals do it.

My main point is whether or not to get a remap done - one garage dissauded me somewhat,saying 'it isn't worth it, the Vrs is tuned as good as can be', ,etc,etc. Strange I always thought garages love taking your cash. I understand that an uprated engine is gonna put more pressure on (possibly worn) other components, but I'm not going for insane performance.. ..just a smoother overall ride with the power a secondary concern. Although its' fast by my standards, I'm sure it should be more responsive and 'even' in its' power output

Should I forget the idea? Cos it seems sensible to me  - £300 for a remap and engine clean/service sounds a deal

13 minutes ago, ogpuprison said:

Should I get the cambelt garage to do the thermostat for me?

Can't see why. What they should do is change the water pump, which is driven off the cambelt, lasts about 1.5x the cambelt (necessitating a new belt and all the associated labour) and takes about 15 minutes when the cambelt's already off. The garage I use for "big jobs" was asked to quote for the cambelt and came back with "This money, including a new water pump".

 

Less certain either way about a remap, but even a generic map on a 1.8t180 should give you about 220bhp.

You might as well get them to do the thermostat while they are there.

 

It depends on what you want. My car has a larger intercooler and is mapped to 245 bhp and 310 ft lb of torque.

 

The difference in power compared to a standard car is astounding. I use this car for Track Days of which it has done about 20 in the last two years. It is 100% reliable and it’s thrashed to within an inch of its life every time. 
 

My only advice is to have it done by a well-known independent if you are not doing work yourself.

 

Happy to show you my car if you are ever in the Surrey area.

I will-cos I spent half of my day off removing the drivers' door as I have to fit a new window regulator too. If the thermostat is accessed underneath the alternator, that's too complicated for me to do parked in the street.

Yeah everyone here only has positive things to say about a remap-but I'm not experienced enough to know if I've got any worn pipes, etc, which may pop if engine pressure is modified,,, ,, that's why I'm unsure as to whetehr it's a sensible idea or not.

This car, i got it and it was fast and smooth for 2 weeks. then the thermostat f**ked up,, and performance has been weaker. Hopefully a new one will get things back to normal.

Just noticed. Yours is a 2006? ...  MK2?

On 09/10/2022 at 15:55, phazed said:

Just noticed. Yours is a 2006? ...  MK2?

 

My first MK1 was registered in March 2006.  I bought it new from the Skoda dealership in Harrogate whilst the Mk2 was also on the forecourt.

 

I've been wondering if it's my old car if it is a MK1......

MK1 -the more 'boxy' version, unless I'm mistaken

 

On 09/10/2022 at 10:43, ogpuprison said:

I will-cos I spent half of my day off removing the drivers' door as I have to fit a new window regulator too. If the thermostat is accessed underneath the alternator, that's too complicated for me to do parked in the street.

Doing a thermostat on an auq 1.8t is not too bad a job if you possess a 1/4 drive socket set and a good 1/4 drive wobble bar set. With those, you can get under the alternator in situ and remove the stat without too much grief, without them it is much more difficult.

Thanks fellas. I'm going to do it this weekend; looked at loads of info online and it's not too bad. Remove the coolant pipe and that should be a struggle, but the 2 bolts can be accessed. Oh yeah-remove the big bolt on the alternator which is in the way. Just hope I don't drop bits into some dark recess (highly likely). I thought the throttle body(?) would have to be shifted, but no. Many thanks all

 

Having done this job quite a few times, you shouldn't need to touch anything on the alternator as the wobble bar can get around the body of the unit. A quality hex head (6 sided) rather than star type (12 sided) 1/4 drive socket will see the job done, you just need to get the plastic shroud around the dipstick swung out of the way.

 

The hose is easiest if you crack it loose to move after loosening the clip, then leave it on until the bolts are free which will allow you more room to pull the housing free from the hose. If you intend to use 1/2 inch drive tools, it will be a struggle,

Edited 20 October, 20223 yr by kentphil1

I think I understand - you mean loosening all the fixings for the hose which joins to the thermostat housing? Then leave it on cos  then you'll have something to pull on to get it out, The diagram I looked at suggests about 3 bolts which fix that fat hose to the other parts

i know, I shouldn't have used that image I'll be in the **** with someone

...but it's the way I intend to go for it

Although that's a MK2 engine

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cooling/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_cooling_system_part_2/removing_and_installing_coolant_regulator/removing/

 

https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk1/drive_unit/1.8_ltr./132_kw_engine_mechanical_components/engine_cooling/removing_and_installing_parts_of_the_cooling_system_part_2/removing_and_installing_coolant_regulator/install/

 

Only really posted this for pictures really, as the job can all be done from above, just spray the thermostat housing bolts with wd40 about an hour before you want to do the job, makes life easier in the long run.

 

Also, mk1 and mk2 engines are nothing like each other, so that is only going to confuse you looking at pictures of a mk2.

 

Hope it helps

Edited 21 October, 20223 yr by kentphil1

Thank you. Yeah-wrong diagram. Got it done over the weekend and cleaned the throttle valve thing too (which was clean so needn't have bothered). I got a mate to help. who knows cars inside out- and he managed the break the alternator tensioner as he was moving it. I kept cool, and managed to pick one up on a sunday for £55 which meant no money for him! Anyway, all good now, it was good to get a good look underneath, etc... no leaks or obviously worn parts. So I'm more likely to get a remap done now I know it's not in a shoddy state... cos a remap is pointless if there are leaks and clogged-up parts everywhere