ogpuprison

aw this is vrs porn, and my poor car is still in a sick state! Spent hours under the car today, unsuccessful mission to extract the sump bolt. No dice, I just can't pull outward and keep the pry screwdriver in place simultaneously- need another dude. You know the sump bolt is in a recess, it's well awkward. Ordered a new sump so if it comes to it, there's a plan B. Such a bummer! So all the deletes and catch can stuff will have to wait- I'm not fitting a new sump on my own. Hopefully with a few threats and sweet talking I can get someone to help me do the sump in the next week, do the oil change....and then get back to where I was .More soon

Creation Motorsport are not far from me, but not sure if I like their catchcan kit- looks lie one of the cheap ones on ebay with some hose thrown into the deal (£67)

thanks bullet-guy! Yes this forum has supplied all the info I need to at least do the SAI, N249,N112 deltes and, if I get that far, then fit a catch can. Hopefully the piggyback sump plug will arrive tomorrow- until I've sorted that out, I'm not ordering £250 of parts. Everyone keeps telling me I'm crazy to attempt this, but I've had such a series of hassles from garages, it's down to me. Still don't know if i can start on the deletes and arrive at a point that allows me to drive the car- probably inadvisable. Cos it's likely to take a few days and I expect problems along the way I'll try not to ask too many questions - I expect a lot of the folks who have contributed to the 'Octavia Mk 1' sub-forum have moved onto other cars by now. The posts are over ten years old thanks for the help so far !

An update on this oil leak/boost issue. I went to a new garage which had been recommended to me. Hoping for an understanding expert who might help me out. I was wrong, and left the place super-depressed! As soon as I arrived, it was a total downer. One of those garages more akin to a showroom, pristine floor and very little actual work going on. The guy complained about my drivers' seat (crumbs and whatnot) and went and got a seat cover for himself. Then he expressed his disgust at the quality of the rocker gasket install done by another mechanic. 40 minutes later he'd done a VCDS and then gave me a load of vague possibilities,; basically he didn't want the job, let's leave it at that. His 'report' suggested the following- -turbo electrovalves slow and worn ( I assume he means the actuator on the wastegate) oil leaks on the turbo in/out pipes -SAI valve and orifices blocked -Lambda sensor 1 faulty heater -air leaks causing the evap system to malfunction rear main seal leaks oil intake manifold gasket brittle causing boost leak and oil leak The printout identified P0411, P1602, P0507, P0135. All these faults point towards doing the SAI delete and Eap system delete; so that's my plan. He quoted £2000 which might have been to scare me off (and probably assuming the turbo is finished). Whichever way, he's not my guy. I am so upset; I knew the car is in a mess, but nothing that can't be addressed. In fact, if his attitude had been different I would have said 'yes' there and then (even though that's money I don't have!). So I'm gonna do the deletes myself and fit an OCC. If I get that far, I'll know whether the wastegate actuator can be changed or not, and should be getting better at this stuff by then. That'll mean no car for a bit . No guarantee it's going to solve anything but you have to address these issues one by one. Before any of this though, I just found my oil sump plug is spinning!! It's not leaking but I gotta get it out and fit an oversize 'piggyback' bolt first, so I can change the oil! Thanks for reading - had to get this off my chest

I'm probably going to be the last person in history to attempt this! Unfortunately I'll have no car for about a week, and that's if things go to plan. Garry C said 'we did this on a sunday morning' - this will take me days!! Even if I were to fit the resistors first, I'm pretty sure I couldn't drive with pipes missing and open holes in the manifold, etc. So what's the suggested order of procedure? Remove SAI, N249, N112, then the Evap system.... then fit a catch can? I've been trying to figure out the cost- and sourcing the lengths of hose. I've got issues with lack of boost and oil leaks, and the VCDS report seems to make this project even more worthwhile (secondary air injection valve blocked,evap system malfunction due to leaky gaskets, turbo leaking a bit on input and output). Still don't know if my turbo is shot or if my power loss is due to leaks of air and oil across the system(s).Report also mentioned wastegate and turbo bypass valves being worn /slow to open and close. But the guy didn't reckon the turbo is wrecked, or at least he didn't say that!

Dean- thanks for the heads up. The SAI removal/etc is a bit involved but I'm sure I can manage it- in fact, the vacuum tube hoses by the dipstick could well be at fault- that would explain my low boost/ bad economy issue. Whether it has anything to do with my oil leak, I wouldn't know. The hose kit I bought had the vacuum tube assembly included, which I didn't fit. Maybe I should. It looks well complex to me, but I've got my head around the engine bay now so it could be a job for sunday. I've been pointed to a supposedly good mechanic though, at the very least I'm gonna get him to get his VCDS on it. Might tell me something. Incidentally, what does N249 /N112 refer to?

I managed to get the whole lot changed over the last two days. My primary concern is the oil leak; after getting rocker gasket replaced, next step was all the ancient hoses. So as I'd bought them, I thought I'd address the leak first- although most of the guidance on briskoda encourages the OCC and delete route. I had to read all this to help me do the job, and it sounds like the way to go. But I've done it and I'm jolly proud of myself! Wrecked my hands as expected, and have probably dropped some bits into the manifold hole-we'll see. Only had time for a 20 miunte drive to the supermarket though; and it was too dark to check on leaks. Will update tomorrow. But while it's in my mind, here's the troublesome bits- scraping and digging the broken 90 degree elbow remnants from the hole; took forever. A washer came out at the end, as well as a 4cm section of pipe.Stupidly I didn't put the washer back but I did put a new one on the new elboy. The spring clip was another struggle, as it's partly under a cable mounting plate (getting it back in was the difficult bit). the pipe that goes up from the 'T' was a hassle- I couldn't get it reach so used a section of 19mm breather pipe from a scrap vehicle, cut to size. It's not rigid plastic but I couldn't give a **** by that stage. When I first drove off, it seemed at bit jerky in first/second gear, but that was probably my stress overthinking stuff (i.e; forgotten how to drive) I'll drive againtomorrow. I'm hoping for better boost, economy and whatnot, and hopefully a dry oil-free parking space! Oh yeah, the 'third' valve I mentioned was a mistake- it was simply a steel hose termination in a green shroud, that looked like a valve ..until I looked at it properly. More later

sorry mine is an AUQ 1.8T engine

I hope the good folks at Briskoda can help me get this straight, once and for all. Cos getting my head around the PCV valve/breather hose/inlet manifold set-up is driving me nuts. So much conflicting info and diagrams (not on this forum so much) has made me realise the OCC route makes sense. I've got an oil leak and have been trying to sort it out. Rocker cover gasket change= still got a leak. The two mechanics I know are being really evasive (i.e; too ****in complicated for them). So I'm currently replacing a the breather hoses. I was intending to just replace the sections one by one, to avoid mistakes, but a lot of my system has been bodged badly, and some pipes just go to fresh air!Anyways I've got as far as the 'T' and, as we all know,this area tends to disintegrate and is difficult to access. I don't really know what the clump of pipes under the dipstick plate are; I'm currently trying to get the plate out! I have found the end of the breather pipe that goes in above the dipstick / oil filter area (into the manifold) is just falling out. But I've also found there's another valve in the pipe at that point. That makes three valves! One on the 'T', one near the air filter (hockey puck) and now this one. Something strange here. No wonder my oil filler cap blows rather than sucks. Does anyone know how to fit the rigid plastic bend piece that should be in this oil filter hole? Are three valves found normally? Most info I've read suggests two. And I haven't even got to the 'other' branch of the 'T' section. There's two great threads on briskoda covering this- but they're old and if I were to ask there, I'll probably get no answer since they're 2013 or something. And they don't cover the issues I'm bumbling my way through, like removing the dipstick plate, orientation of the two 'green' valves, and why my oil filler blows (Negative crankcase ventilation, if you like). I intend to keep my VRS for at least another year and a daft oil leak is not gonna beat me.This is probably the reason the boost is poor, economy of fuel is down and the leak itself. Thanks people

I replaced the oil pick-up pipe a couple of years back, in cars this old the pipe does get blocked and it can lead to allsorts of issues. Parts may be cheap, but it took me and a knowledable mate a good few hours to do the sump drain/clean and puttting everything back together. Think we did the throttle body input while we were at it, and obviously did an oil and filter change. oil pick-up pipe is a common source of trouble in these cars, apparently.

I'd love to raise the height of my vrs but it's a bit of an unnecessary expense I reasoned. Those spacers I've seen, cost about £140 for all 4, to get an extra 30mm...just worried it'll change the handling too much and I'll crash. No doubt the insurers will need to know as well. Roads are really bad after winter as everyone in the UK knows too well

Well, fuses are there for a reason; I said to my mate,'why do we need a fuse between alternator and battery' when the alternator has a regulator.. and he said ' cos the regulator could fail'. Well yeah, but why not carry 4 spare wheels cos you might blow 4 tyres? Sure you get my drift. But it seems more like the cable was burned up and as a result, had burned the insulation off the next cable to it (the 110A car systems cable). Or the other way round. I've driven loads since I repaired it, the cable insulation and fusebox cover all look in good condition, so I'l just keep an eye on it. I did go a scrapyard in cheltenham today and tried pulling an altetrnator cable out of a Golf (07 plate) but it was too hard without any tools. I might go back and get it (<£10 he said) if I can figure out how it comes out. I don't think it's part of a larger loom so should be possible

Actually I didn't take any pictures but here's what's left of the fusebox cover! I've driven about 150 miles since doing it, took a look today ands looks un-melted thus far. It is still hot on the alternator cable side of the new box, sadly...so one day I need to trace the alternator cable and see if there are any other sections that are corroded/exposed/whatever. But the weather is so **** I can't face it right now

...all done, but had to exchange the loop connectors for ones with a 6mm hole. I only cut off about a centimetre as there wasn't much slack to play with; scrubbed up the end, then used flux and solder to reduce oxidation Getting them onto the cable itself was a struggle but they crimped up good. Let's see how long the fusebox lasts this time

Hey thanks! However I'm aware of the alternator cable getting hot and resistance build-up, just wondered if the cable can be cleaned up at the alternator end and if there's a specific resistance I should be aiming for. I' should receive the fusebox tomorrow so intend to risk snipping alternator cable and re-crimping the loop connector. I got some 16mm w/8mm hyole ones, just hope they're up to the job. These crimps didn't state their accepted current, I'm just gonna go for it... if there's enough cable to pull up, that is. If the issue is common it wouldn't surprise me if it's been done ten times before by previous owners! It's crazy that the various fusible links are so close together and their high-current connectors are a bit exposed if you ask me. Do the real skoda hardcore re-route these to ensure a more reliable electrical system? The amount of diagnostic weirdness these fuseboxes and their connectors can cause blows my mind