Hellfire's instructions for fitting rear mudflaps get high praise indeed from oodles of you guys. I've now read these.

Unfortunately, due to the lack of a link to view the pics, which accompanied the instructions, I can't visualize the piece of the bumper he cut-off to enable the flap to fit, quote "spot-on".

Is there a way to get the instructions, complete with pics, at this time?

Annoying I know

I havent got pics handy either.

However

Basically it comes down to this. When you follow the rear wheel arch down by hand, you'll find there is a thicker ridge at the top. This is due to the Fabia vRS rear bumper being effectively over the top. I just cut that plastic out.

Perhaps Stu's site Fabia-vrs.com - Home Page has the pics on it. If not, hopefully HellFire still has some pics stashed locally that he might be able to repost?

Boy, that was a fast response! Thanks!

Perhaps it's my age - won't see 60 again - but I still can't quite follow what part you removed.

Let me explain my problem. The rear bumper is a composite of the std bumper + the vRS. This effectively doubles the section thickness. The recess in the std mudflap only accomodates a single thickness. So, which of these did you trim-off? If it was the vRS, how did you do it to achieve a "spot-on" fit.

In anticipation.

Bill.

I kinda followed down the arch with a sharp knife. From what I remember (a long time back annoyingly), if you follow down from the wheel arch standing at the driver side, facing towards the back of the car, you'll find suddenly it gets thicker. If you run a hobby knife or stanley type knife down and cut that off, it will fit

I kinda followed down the arch with a sharp knife. From what I remember (a long time back annoyingly), if you follow down from the wheel arch standing at the driver side, facing towards the back of the car, you'll find suddenly it gets thicker. If you run a hobby knife or stanley type knife down and cut that off, it will fit

Thanks again. God, I must be dim. Still can't get the message. The vRS bumper has a lip which turns-in at 90 degrees and follows the contour to the bottom edge of the bumper. The width of this lip is, again, twice the thickness of the flap recess. Does this lip have to be trimmed-off as a first step?

Do you then trim-off from the std bumper - the inner of the two - an amount sufficient to allow the flap to be pushed home over the vRS part to the full depth of the recess. Am I now confusing you?

not really but then I know what I cut :P

Hopefully someone will come along with a camera and take some snaps, then I can put in some edits to show where to cut things

I havent got my car at the moment otherwise I could undo one and show it.

Whereabouts are you in the country?

not really but then I know what I cut :P

Hopefully someone will come along with a camera and take some snaps, then I can put in some edits to show where to cut things

I havent got my car at the moment otherwise I could undo one and show it.

Whereabouts are you in the country?

That would be most helpful!

I'm in Motherwell, Scotland.

Bill,

follow the link below, there's a piccy of the cut section on this thread.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/fabia/mudflaps/63446/?highlight=mudflaps

Bill,

follow the link below, there's a piccy of the cut section on this thread.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/fabia/mudflaps/63446/?highlight=mudflaps

Thank you, for the reply.

Ah, Ah! So, it's the return flange that is trimmed-off. I kinda suspected that might be the first step. That still wont reduce the thickness to match the recess in the mudflap. How did you overcome that? Is it persuasion, brute-force style? Or, what?

Sorry, for continuing the agony. Well, I'm not really! I just want to do the job to the best standard possible. Hair splitting rules OK!

All the best, lads.

It makes it a lot more usable. I also warmed up the mudflaps in warm water for a bit to aid the flexing of it.

Then kinda start at one end and try to keep the grove going somehow. You'll get there, although it took a bit of doing.

Much easier if you can take the rear wheel(s) off - especially once lowered

It makes it a lot more usable. I also warmed up the mudflaps in warm water for a bit to aid the flexing of it.

Then kinda start at one end and try to keep the grove going somehow. You'll get there, although it took a bit of doing.

Much easier if you can take the rear wheel(s) off - especially once lowered

That's all I need, now. I'll give it a go this week. Thanks to all who gave of their knowledge, especially your good self.

Any questions when you've got the car 'in front' just drop me a line - I should be about most days at the moment

Bill,

One other thing. Although I used a stanley knife, a dremel would make a neater cut. Just follow the lip all the way down and round.

The flap fits on okay, but when you apply the screws, the middle one is a bit tight. This is where I used a small heat gun (or hairdryer) to warm the flap a bit and make it more pliable to work with.

As for the screw that fits underneath the bumper, these were more difficult, but I think the flap would still be pretty secure without even affixing these.

Best of luck - I prefer the look with the flaps - never had a car without them.

Bill,

I did mine a couple of weeks ago, after reading the said article, in about an hour (Front & Rears) leaving the wheels on. Fronts are a doddle. As already mentioned a washing up bowl of really hot water helps soften the rears to go over the double thickness edge of the bumper.

Couple of hints:-

1 - I would have some longer self tappers available. Just remove one and nip into halfords. The existing ones are about 1/2 an inch long and they need to be an inch. Out of the 4 fixings on the mudflap the top two were OK with the originals. The third one down in the arch and the one underneath needed to be longer.

2 - I used a curved stanley blade to trim the bumper which allowed me to run it along the original bumper as a guide thus keeping everything neat. The plastic is really soft. It sounds a bit drastic but was really easy and controllable. With the mudflaps off you would never know its been hacked!!

Good luck

Ian

Hellfire's instructions for fitting rear mudflaps get high praise indeed from oodles of you guys. I've now read these.

Unfortunately, due to the lack of a link to view the pics, which accompanied the instructions, I can't visualize the piece of the bumper he cut-off to enable the flap to fit, quote "spot-on".

Is there a way to get the instructions, complete with pics, at this time?

Hello again,

Fitted the rear flaps, today.

Equipped with your and all the other members' tips, and some pics showing the location of where to trim the vRS bumper, I completed the job in what previously I would have thought was an unbelievable 1.5 hours.

Here is a quick debrief:

1. Removed the wheel. How some of you managed with the wheel in situ is a source of wonder to me.

2. Trimmed-off all of the return flange from the vRS bumper - without any pre-heating. Stanley knife worked a treat. I also shaved-off some of the std bumper to reduce the edge thickness to somewhere around the width of the recess in the flap - 3mm approx.

3. Removed the 3 tork screws - no problem.

4. Pre-heated the flap in a basin of almost boiling point water.

5. Starting at the bottom edge, then applying thumb pressure progressively round the profile of the curve the flap just slid fully home, no problem at all. I could hardly believe that the recess would flex, sufficiently, but it did.

(Pre-heating the flap was undoubtedly the key to the ease with which this part of the fitting was achieved.)

6. Re-fitted the 3 tork screws. Again, no problem. Bottom screw and U nut supplied with the kit was a wee bit tricky though. The screw is too short, really. However, I just reversed the U nut - thread first - and this enabled the screw to grab and tighten securely.

7. Noticed that with all 3 screws fully tightened there was a gap between the profile of the flap and the profile of the bumper - 1 to 1.5 millimetres. Overcame this by slackening back all three screws by 2 and a bit millimetres, inserting a 2 millimetre plastic spacer to the underside of the flap. On re-tightening the screws, no gap - Eureka!

Incidentally, the original fit screws, (20 x 12mm lg) were of sufficient length even with the 2 millimetre spacer in place.

I know many of the forum guys think flaps are out-of-place on a Furby, but each to his own, say I.

Once again, thanks for the assistance.