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What oil do you use?


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Guys

Ive got my 60k service coming up this month, well, it was actually due a couple of months ago but ive booked it now :) along with the cambelt, so there goes my overtime :o

Im not sure what oil i have in the car at the moment, but i thought about using a semi or should i try fully synthetic? Also, how much to buy??? the dealer said 3.5 - 4ltrs, is that about right?

Ive done a search but not much comes up about oil for a vRS so, I would be interested to know what oil you have in your beast (car, nothing pervy thank you :P ) any recommendations? 0w-40 or 10w-40?

Ps, im not sure if its fixed or variable servicing, but plan on getting it done ever 10k.

Cheers :thumbup:

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Loads of information has been posted here over the years about suitable oils, including the 'sticky' at the top of this particular forum. For variable service intervals you should use a spec VW 503 00 fully synthetic 0W-30 LongLife oil (which is what the car was filled with from new) - or the later spec VW 504 00 fully synthetic 5W-30 LongLife oil. For fixed service intervals you can use any multigrade high lubricity oils meeting specs VW 500 00 or 502 00, or a spec VW 501 01 multigrade oil. If you want the turbo to last, use a fully synthetic oil.

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Thanks DGW, did spot that but havent a clue what those VW spec 503 00 etc mean??

As I dont know if mine is fixed or variable, and I plan on doing it every 10k, would I go with the fixed recommendations?

So if I got a fully synthetic oil from say halfords, how would i know if it meets the VW spec? or is it best sticking with something like Synta 5w/40 gold fully synthetic like fatty5000?

Cheers for the help, didnt realise there was so much to look into for oil lol, but its my first turbo car, so I want it to last :)

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Thanks DGW, did spot that but havent a clue what those VW spec 503 00 etc mean??

As I dont know if mine is fixed or variable, and I plan on doing it every 10k, would I go with the fixed recommendations?

So if I got a fully synthetic oil from say halfords, how would i know if it meets the VW spec? or is it best sticking with something like Synta 5w/40 gold fully synthetic like fatty5000?

Cheers for the help, didnt realise there was so much to look into for oil lol, but its my first turbo car, so I want it to last :)

I ummed and =ah'd so much in the end i asked lummox and he said that one so that's what i went for

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If you look on the oil it will say which VW specifications it conforms to (if any). There are lots out there now.

If you plan to change every 10k then yes, find oil which conforms to the fixed specifications. I don't have my handbook available right now but if you go to the 'DIY' section it gives the required specifications close to where it explains checking the oil level. There are two specifications listed in mine for fixed interval servicing, as far as I know you need to meet at least one of them. The Shell oil I use meets both :)

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I use Fuchs Oil and I get it from Opie Oils, great service & price, together with next day service.

They are regular contributors to this site and if you need any advice give them a ring:

www. opieoils.co.uk

E mail: [email protected]

Tel No: 01209 215164 Ask for Guy

Thoroughly recommended

:thumbup:

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Thanks DGW, did spot that but havent a clue what those VW spec 503 00 etc mean??

Have a read of this post by opieoils it might help you out a bit with the spec explanations http://www.briskoda.net/forums/maintenance-performance/buying-oil-some-basic-advice-opie-oils/79786/

I also change the oil and filter every 5k in my cars and used the mobil1 fully synthetic 5w40 in my tdi

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Have a read of this post by opieoils it might help you out a bit with the spec explanations http://www.briskoda.net/forums/maintenance-performance/buying-oil-some-basic-advice-opie-oils/79786/

I also change the oil and filter every 5k in my cars and used the mobil1 fully synthetic 5w40 in my tdi

I thought Mobil 1 was a 0W-40 but the label will specify. Wasn't aware it met VW 505 01 spec. As for dumping it every 5k miles, whilst you're helping to keep my pension going, (ta), you're not actually achieving anything else apart from increasing your costs. 10k drain period for modern oils is a doddle..............provided they meet the correct spec.

Just speaking from experience.

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Your quite correct mobil1 is 0w40 :o and it meets the spec for my engine

we all do our own maintainence if not done by the stealers in our own way and probably different to each other or in a way others wouldnt agree with

and im happy to do it at 5k as i have a high miler and want to keep it as fresh as possible

yes im adding to my costs but not by a great deal in the grand scheme of things and if this is adding to your pension then so be it

which by the way i hope is a long way off yet :thumbup:

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How much of a discount and how much do you need to buy to get it ?

I think any quantity, and it might be 10% off the oil price (not including p&p)

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we all do our own maintainence if not done by the stealers in our own way and probably different to each other or in a way others wouldnt agree with and im happy to do it at 5k as i have a high miler and want to keep it as fresh as possible

All well and good if u change every 5k, I tend to only do mine when the dash tells me too (which I know is bad!). However what about this issue of the sump only being good for about 10 changes of oil before the sump plug hole becomes knackered? Or is this a case of simply a case of *not* doing it up extra super hard and then a bit more? I always seem to struggle to get the plastic oil filter cover off on my TDi :-(

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yes the sumps are a real design flaw if you ask me and im sure i read somewhere possibly here that the plug needs replacing after each change but steel into alloy is always going to be problematic so really theres nothing wrong with the plug itself its the sump

My sump plug is not done up tight at all its just nipped up and got a little thread sealant round it, i do keep an eye on it just to be sure but its been fine up to now, i think though when it comes to my next change ill look for a steel sump if there is such a thing, maybe someone will know and can tell me as ive not looked into it

The plastic oil cap is very tight and i used a standard chain filter wrench to shift it, you need to be a bit careful obviously but it works a treat

I remeber back in the day when we couldnt shift an oil filter a large screwdriver was hammered straight through the filter and out the other side then turned, oh those were the days

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I think any quantity, and it might be 10% off the oil price (not including p&p)

Thats quite fair might look into getting some then its supposed to be very good oil

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The plastic oil cap is very tight and i used a standard chain filter wrench to shift it, you need to be a bit careful obviously but it works a treat

I used a chain wrench, but that did not grip enough for me, so I put some sandpaper around it, and then a strip of bent aluminium and then my chain wrench around that..... I have a feeling there is a proper tool you can buy to get it off....

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  • 1 year later...

I use Castrol Edge 5W-30 and change it every 10k.

I removed the steel sump plug as soon as I discovered the material mis-match. I'm now using an aluminium ECS sump plug, with magnet in, which does actually pick up tiny particles.

Filter can go tight and become a pain, but if you buy a filter socket (made from pressed steel) and pop a breaker bar on it, it just comes right off with no extra stress.

I changed my oil yesterday, and after 11k (I was a bit slack!) the oil was still of a high quality (good colour and consistency). I knew the filter and oil was good for 20k, and now I believe it. But I'll still stick to 10k intervals, as she's getting on a bit now.

Oh and don't forget to drain the oil while it's nice and hot. It falls out like water if you do.

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