Renewed plugs, leads, cap and rotor arm (original arm was *very* difficult to remove) and car started ok and everything seemed fine, in fact it seemed much better to drive. After about five minutes acceleration started to feel juddery ending up kangaroo like, then it got worse, until it cut out repeatedly at idle. Ended up stuck on double yellows and RAC said at least 2 hours, so I thought mayaswell give it a try.

I removed the leads and put them back, no joy. Removed the distributor cap, put it back, no joy. Removed dissy cap, rotor arm, and leads again and all was normal and got myself home and cancelled RAC.

What's the most likely explanation? Leads are definitely in the correct order (same as old ones and the numbers are marked on the distributor cap). I'm guessing the rotor arm maybe went funny somehow?! But if the arm was stuck then surely the car wouldn't have run at all?! Hopefully everything's ok now and this won't put me off home fiddling.

Just a bit worried about going on the motorway if the car is going to cut out. Thanks in advance for any pointers or suggestions...

How hot was the engine when it was running rough, and when it restarted ok? I'm wondering about a duff CB condensor (check for bad pitting and pileing o nthe points to confirm).

You're dead right that if the rotor arn stops going round the engine just stops.

Well the engine will have been warmish when I managed to start it and have it running well enough to get me home which was the same distance. It will probably have just about got up to operating temperature. Is the CB sensor the engine speed/position sensor on top of the transmission housing?

Just about to have another look around then drive around a bit and see what happens. I'll probably try drive a combination of high gears and low gears high revs to see what goes on then.

You have got the leads on in the right order, the symptoms you describe are very simillar to having either 1 and 4 the wrong way round, or 2 and 3 the wrong way round.

Well the engine will have been warmish when I managed to start it and have it running well enough to get me home which was the same distance. It will probably have just about got up to operating temperature. Is the CB sensor the engine speed/position sensor on top of the transmission housing?

Just about to have another look around then drive around a bit and see what happens. I'll probably try drive a combination of high gears and low gears high revs to see what goes on then.

Ah, I was thinking of a pre-catalytic convertor car there.

Been driving around today. Done a fair few mile with no real problems.

The car seems quite different to drive. When you took your foot off the accelerator pedal before there was very definite immediate engine braking, but this seems to have almost vanished now at speed and higher gears. Also the car seems to like to take up a slower idle speed quicker (used to sit close to 1k rpm at start up and now is a bit lower), not sure if this is because things are working a bit more efficiently, or if it's a warmish day. Also seems to be a bit quieter at higher revs than it did before - so I think I'll hold off the timing chain for now.

Seems to run ever so slightly lumpy occasionally (could be my imagination possibly as I am looking out for it and worried about it), but no kangaroo jumps and cutting off. I think I'll get myself a timing light so I can check the leads for current without zapping myself if it happens again, and check the timing (although I'm sure retard or whatever is controlled by the ECU, but if I can check it it can't harm.)

You have got the leads on in the right order

As certain as I can be they are in the order of the previous leads and the firing order is also marked on the new cap (at least I hope that's what it is), presumably to make it fool proof. Only thing wrong I can think with the leads is because the leads connect at 90 degree angle on cap, the first one I have sort of positioned with the lead down over the top of another lead. Only other option seems to be to have it against the engine, or bent backwards. Will have a good check again anyway.

the firing order is 1342.

the lead you have pushed over another goes in tight to the centre of the cap (that'll be lead 1), and the one beside it and slightly further forward in the car (lead 3) splays outwards a little to give it room.

if you bought any of these components, especially the rotor arm or cap, at halfords, or other big store, go to your factors and order a couple more, and pay dear. the carbon rod in the cap wears or breaks waaaaaay too fast and the rotor arms crack sometimes. and from experience these can COME like this.

I still seem to be getting uneven acceleration at high revs, noticeable at about 4k revs.

Intending to set valve clearances, and lubricate the distributor next. Clearances definitely haven't been touched in about one and a half years.

One other possibility is the engine does not like multi-electrode spark plugs, but I can't help feeling that needing to pull the rotor arm very hard to remove it may have caused some damage.

most need a good tug after being on a few years. i had the same problem with one of mine but can't for teh life of me remember why. it might have fixed itself actually!

try disconnecting the ECU and popping it back in after a few minutes (10 to be sure), it will have to reset itself with the sensors which might help. i think i may have cured it like that.