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dbg400

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    dbg400

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    Yeti 2.0 170 Elegance (Shark Stage 1)

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  1. Just to add another option to the mix... Nokian Weatherproofs are available in 235/45/R18 98 (~£150/corner). Another all season tyre, but a winter tyre adapted to summer use. I expected the wear to be poor, but it's anything but. 25K on the fronts before swapping at 4.5mm. The rears went to the front, and 5K later they are still on 6mm (MOT done today - they were 6.5mm 12K ago). A-rated wet grip, and as you might expect from a Finnish tyre company, very competent in the snow.
  2. Radio stations are still there. Trip mileage and mpg (2) were reset, as was the clock.
  3. Easy apart from dropping the securing bolt & bracket twice - cold hands don't grip well! ESC & steering assist lights come on, but reset after a short drive (100 yds or so when I did them).
  4. The cold weather has taken its toll on the Yeti's battery this winter. Lots of short journeys haven't helped. Neither has using the heated seats & windscreen Plus it's the original from May'12. This Saturday it refused to start, and the dash promptly turned into Blackpool Illuminations. Took SWMBO's car instead - that had a battery swap this time last year! Ordered a Varta E44 096 from Tayna.co.uk - 77Ah and 780A cold crank - which turned up this morning. Put on trickle charge and fitted in the sunshine (-2C though) when I got in from work. Just before it started snowing again... All working fine again, and it turns over much more quickly
  5. dbg400

    Re-Map

    I have the Shark stage 1 remap on my '12 Yeti TDI 170. Dyno readings before/after were 175 to 200 bhp, and 368 to 438nm. That was done 3 & a half years/50K miles ago and no issues. Mine was one of the last chip out, fiddle, replace jobs, with it being available to do by the OBD port a month or so later. I wouldn't hesitate to get it done again.
  6. The ride is as good, or slightly better, with the Weatherproofs on the standard 17" Spitzberg alloys as it was on the 16" alloys I used for the winter tyres beforehand. Both are much better than with the Dunlops. There was a little excess noise for the first few hundred miles, but that's about it.
  7. For winter tyres it's the sipe depth that matters. Those are the tiny zigzag grooves that hold snow, which then grips the snow on the road. If they've worn down to nearly nothing, then you've lost the bulk of the advantage winter tyres give you. The Nokians have depth markings at 8, 6 & 4mm, and the sipes go deeper than the 4mm mark. As long as you still have sipes present they will out perform summer tyres in snow. Obviously the less tread they have the less standing water they can shift, but that goes for all tyres.
  8. A big thumbs-up for the Weatherproofs. I had Nokian WR A3s as winter tyres, and the original Dunlop SP01s for the warmer half of the year. I swapped for the Nokians two years ago. The Weatherproofs beat both the SP01s & the WR A3s in noise, wet grip & wear, and are better in the snow than the dedicated winter tyres. Dry grip is not as good as dedicated summers, but that's only apparent in hard cornering - the majority of the time it's not noticeable. I've recently bought a new pair of the Weatherproofs to replace the fronts, now down to 4.5mm after 23K miles - rears are at 6.5mm (I haven't rotated the tyres yet). There's still plenty of sipe depth on the fronts, but the edges are worn (from the aforementioned hard cornering) and as it does go off road a bit I want the better grip from more tread.
  9. That looks to be the same fault my '12 Yeti has.In my case the seal is intact but the paintwork isn't. I've been told by the dealer that it's a known issue, and due to a design flaw with that seal. The rubber compound isn't soft enough, and causes wear on the trailing edge of the front door, particularly at the base. That in turn damages/removes the paint and introduces water, and in the UK at least, rust :( The dealer is still chasing this with Skoda for me, but other than a recent phone call (to say it's not moving), I'm no closer to a fix... The dealer has done resprays for others, only for the rust to come back, and the only permanent fix is replacing the doors! That would not be worth doing without a significant contribution from Skoda.
  10. This is the dilemma I'm in. I want a combination that only appears to be available in bigger cars, and I don't really want or need bigger. As to why I got it in the first place it was a compromise between two cars I'd wanted for years - a vRS and a LR Defender! The Top Gear piece didn't hurt its appeal either The Yeti has been great, though now has soured a bit with the faulty B-pillar door seal/rusty doors issue which I'm told isn't covered by the five year extended warranty. Still waiting on the dealer to tell me if Skoda UK will pay for repairs... The only one of the current & forthcoming Skoda line-up that appeals is the Kodiaq, but that's too big, and doesn't (yet) offer the hybrid engine I'd want if buying new again.
  11. Hopefully I'll make it this month. Can't say I'll like the run there if the heat is like now - even with air-con.
  12. It was one of the specialists who checked it and photos were taken but they have to get agreement from VW UK (why them and not Skoda UK I don't know). My local dealer (was Benfield, now Lookers) said they couldn't do anything as they no longer had access to a paintshop (they'd fallen out with the local VW body shop that did my door), so the assessment was at D.M. Keith in Leeds**. What seems to be the distinction is that the paintwork hasn't failed, but has been degraded by a design fault in another component - splitting hairs as far as I can see, but that's what they've been told trying to get this sorted for others. ** Which seems to be huge now. I bought my Octavia there in 2003, and was last there six years ago. Didn't recognise the place.
  13. I've just taken my '12 Yeti in for its five year/60,000 mile service (rolled over to 60K as I pulled onto the drive last night) and had an interesting discussion with the service engineer about the rust on the doors. This is on the bottom of the leading edge of both rear doors, and the bottom trailing edge of the driver's door (the same one that was resprayed under warranty two years ago due to zinc inclusion issues under the bump strip). He took one look and said it was a known issue, and down to a manufacturing defect. The seal between the front & rear doors is too rigid and too tight, and causes wear of the door edges that touch it. Apparently this isn't covered under the paint warranty, and is only in the standard three year warranty. I've got the five year extended warranty, bought as an option when placing the order, so we'll see if they honour that! The service chap said I'm not the only one with the issue, and they'll fight the case (they want the work and the money for it) with VW UK, but it's not going to be quick... If accepted it's more likely to be replaced doors, than a prep and respray, as the depth of rust can mean it just resurfaces later.
  14. I managed similar on my old Octavia TDi - under 2mm in only 10,000 miles on the front's. The SP01s did similar to yours, doing around 22,000 miles (swapped with winters) and getting down to 3mm or so. I put all seasons (Nokian Weatherproof) on two years ago, and have done just under 18,000 since then. Fronts are down to 5mm and rears are still over 6mm. Much better wear rate than the Dunlops and cost me £100/corner fitted. Best wet weather tyre I've used.
  15. That can be tweaked by someone with a VCDS cable & software. My 170 was very optimistic on the MFD initially, but it's now always within 1 mpg of the calculated brim to brim figure.
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