-mike-

it gets fed super unleaded so I can’t answer that question unfortunately! They were sooty when I changed them though! It has camshaft measurement for intake iirc, I think specified at idle was 19.5 and actual was between 18.5 and 19.5 . Not sure how far these can be out? It from my limited time driving it does it more when it’s warm. Cold it sounds like a diesel while it does it’s car warmup then quietens down.

I did give them a call and they don’t have injectors at all for it. The idle is getting progressively worse now so whatever the issue it needs to be found! The fuel economy is absolutely terrible at this point too 😔

The inlet manifold is on the backside of this engine so the job probably comes with free tractor back...... Finding a genuine injector (read not necessarily vag stamped - but a magnetti marelli unit isn't easy!). Injector price from dealer is £250 odd, the magnetti marelli is £150 and I believe is the OEM unit. If anyone can advise whether any other suffix units can be fitted I'd appreciate it. Currently going on 03c 906 036 F, though I see some parts sites that suggest the M and F suffix to fit the same cars.

Had this on an older golf tdi I had. As pikpilot said above, it’ll be the accelerator pedal sensor that’s on its way out. My golf eventually would just idle high and completely ignore input from the accelerator pedal. New one fitted and problem was solved 👍

Using Tesco Super Unleaded which I believe is 99/100 octane. It never gets the cheap stuff, certainly not now that they've effectively watered down the standard petrol! We only have normal/super unleaded here.

Hey, The ECU was updated, made the car much nicer to drive - seems to have improved throttle response though that could just be manipulation of pedal to % in the ecu now - I don't know! Other problems still remain, most irritating is the misfire on cylinder 4 which just can't be got rid of currently! Don't get me wrong, when you put your foot down it actually moves well for the amount of power / torque it has but the idle has me stumped currently and it's not a nice place to sit in traffic / at lights etc! With the latest software version, you can request that the warm up of the engine is sped up, I believe this is probably at the expense of fuel but it may be worth it if you're living in a colder climate! Best wishes

Hey all, The car concerned is a 1.4 TSI with the caxa lump. It has recently (within last year) had new timing chain, new coilpacks, new spark plugs, throttle body/valve cleaned and a couple of oil changes. Since the timing chain and associated gubbins were replaced, it's started like a trooper and unless it's doing the irritatingly noisy I'm at X temp heat/crossover timing thing, is very very quiet when running. I haven't really driven the car much as it isn't mine, but after using it a couple of times I became aware of a lumpy idle which prompted me to take it to a friends some distance away for a dose of VCDS. You can hear the engine not firing correctly at idle at the tail end of the car where there is a slight hiccup every so often. VCDS picked up P0300 ( Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire) and also had P0304 which I believe relates to Cylinder 4 experiencing a/multiple misfire(s). Whilst I only have Carista and Torque available to myself here, I did log the fuel rail post engine shutdown from just above idle rpm, which I hoped would rule out any injector being stuck / leaking but the results suggest otherwise. I'm not sure where this graph will attach but please see image showing pressure drop. The car in the morning will report what I believe to be low pressure pump pressure which is around 7 Bar. This increases to 50Bar at idle and somewhere up near three figures with WOT. My question to you guys though is this - would you lean towards changing the fuel injector on Cylinder 4 based on the misfires and the rail pressure drop? This rail drop doesn't happen all the time, but when it starts to up the misfire counter for cylinder 4 (which sometimes goes up at the rate of 1 a second) you can hear it at the tail end of the car. Shutting the car down when it's doing this also results in you being able to see the fuel rail pressure dropping, rather than increasing with heat soak as expected (at least, according to a video I watched on youtube created by VCDS). If anyone has any ideas I'd really appreciate your thoughts - I'm happy to replace the injector... I guess with a new rather than used one as it at least comes with the seals and some sort of guarantee then? I had considered a carbon clean for the valves also, but the local guys weren't keen as they believe that you can't remove the intake runner plate (sorry no idea on correct term) things making it more difficult. They quoted £500 for the work, if they were able to gain access. Thanks all. PS - Where's the best place to get VCDS in the UK? (Genuine please only). I think it's time I invested in my own.

Thank you for your help - managed to get them to do it after finding something detailing the update on erwin! Drives much better now, but having played around with it myself........ it has other issues! Thread incoming.

You're a gent, thank you sir! I subbed up for the 1hr access and found three TPIs which mentioned that update. One of them being noises from the car at idle, another being the car failing to warm up during very cold months and the final one was for a hard brake pedal after starting the car. Apologies for naming them all, figured it may help someone in the future if they experience any of those issues. Here's hoping they'll actually be bothered to help now - I don't care about paying for it, I just want it done! Thanks again

What do you mean the worst dipstick design? Are you telling me you can't read black oil, on black plastic?! I've found it wonderful for questioning myself as to whether the oil level is correct or not... like i've got dipstick ocd! They must have finalised that design decision at an office party whilst out of their heads on alcohol I swear! Is the car parked on a flat surface now? If so take another dip, or two, or ten and see where it sits. If you're concerned take a photo and attach it here. I can't remember the min and max but I'm fairly certain it's not less than 0.5l

Torque isn't that clever but I had written down a large part of the engine portion so I could try and be a google mechanic (the worst kind!).... Part No SW was 03c 906 016 AK HW was 03c 906 016 C SW version I assume was the 5295 that I had some luck looking up. It also had something about a revision which was LCH12, though I'm not sure if that's useful to you. Thank you for your help.

Can I pay for access to erwin as a private individual? If so, any ideas of cost at all? I don't have VCDS myself to post a log, wondering if any other software can get you the info you would be able to form an opinion on? I've only got torque at my disposal and the guy with vcds is fifty miles or so away 😐 Thank you for your reply

Hey all, Some of you may have seen posts previously regarding the timing chain and rough running of this engine. The engine is now very quiet at idle after chain, tensioner and the valve timing pulley was changed. What's emerged now after me actually driving it - is that it doesn't idle very nicely at all and is rather lumpy up through the rev range. The car has had new plugs, coil packs very recently but this hasn't changed the running of the car. From trawling the ol' internet - her software version is really rather out of date and the new software fixes a multitude of these issues. Her current ecu software version is 5295, the latest I believe is 9700. First post I found with any info is this one, on briskoda itself Then after some further research I discovered a promising sounding post regarding the caxa lump on a russian forum : Engine software update 1.4 TSI CAXA (03C906016BM, v.9970) Volkswagen Golf 6 2012, activation of bluetooth and parktronics in Perm #vagcomperm — VAG-COM-PERM on DRIVE2 Ignore the title, but scroll down a little (edge should offer you to translate the page) and it lists the following changes thanks to this software update As a result of updating the 1.4 TSI CAXA engine software according to the available TPI (2031250/1, 2019832/3, 2028838/2, etc.), the following problems are excluded: - noise from the bottom or from the rear right side of the car - loud clicks / knocks from the fuel supply system - metal knocks at idle from the flange area of the KP / two-mass flywheel - rattling noises at idle from the gearbox / dual-mass flywheel area. - the cold engine does not start well and then works very unevenly, sometimes only at 500 rpm. - Insufficient heating power, the engine does not warm up - at low outside temperatures: the heating power of the cabin is insufficient, the coolant temperature indication falls, the engine does not warm up sufficiently - the engine in the warm-up phase in the start-stop function stalls and then ceases to start. From the ignition key, it is possible to start the engine. – the start-stop system does not work at times, the record is 05537 / P15A1 in the event recorder – the engine stalls after prolonged operation in forced idling mode at very low speed or when maneuvering uphill. Immediately after that, the engine can be started. – ABS indicator or OG control lamp is lit, errors 00262 / P0106 and 06419 / P1913 – dvig. CAXA (EU5): uneven operation in the warm-up phase at speeds up to 3000 rpm - slight jitter/ vibration of the engine when increasing speeds up to 3000 rpm in the warm-up phase - poor idle speed setting in the engine control unit. - In the instrument cluster, a message about a failure from the control system of the OG lights up. All these errors are typical for old versions of the software and are excluded in new ones. In addition to correcting these shortcomings after updating the engine software, idle work is aligned, twitches at start are excluded, the acceleration dynamics becomes more linear, the response to pressing the accelerator pedal improves. This sounds like exactly what I'm after with regards to the engine running, cold starting and idle speed etc. Soooooo I contacted the local branch of Skoda who said there are no updates for the car and that was that. Can anyone advise me where I can find out the latest software version for these cars? Skoda UK weren't very helpful and pointed me at the dealer. Does anyone here know how I can find out if this update is available without relying on the dealer? I guess the alternative option here is to take it and get it remapped which hopefully would solve all but I'd like to avoid putting the engine under any extra strain to fix this if possible. Thank you so much.

I'm not sure if your engine is PD or CR at that manufacture year, but I assume that the CR has an anti-shudder valve too? If it does, I'd be looking at that as a starting point. My 2.0 PD shudder valve died but it did throw up a CEL. The shutdown then, was very typically agricultural diesel instead of a smooth stop.

Hey all, Figured I'd start a new topic rather than continuing the rattle thread as the rattle is now well and truly gone. What's emerged after having a new chain and all the gubbins including vvt pulley is a very irritating misfire which only occurs at idle. The engine used to idle solidly at an audible and bottomshake reading of zero. The car now records multiple misfires in cylinder 4, and only very occasionally will it record them in other cylinders. The engine is a 122 CAXA lump, has fresh oil and filter, fresh air filter, new spark plugs and even a new coil in a bid to see if the fault moved with coil packs. It however, does not. Having visited a friend yesterday who has VCDS, the faults increment on cylinder four - sometimes really quickly and other times one recorded every 5/6 seconds. Looking at the fuel trims, it had recorded Block 32 Adaptation idle -0.8% Adaptation Partial -9.4% Block 33 Lambda Control sensor 1 1.2% Sensor voltage 1.46v I will check these figures again in a moment to see if the values have changed since she's driven to work a few times but I do know that the idle missing and juddering is still there. Are there any common vacuum hoses that break on these engines at all? The way it behaves reminds me of how one of my uncles old Fords would judder due to vacuum leaks which were hard to locate at the time. Having just started the car and running it up to temperature, misfires were recorded on multiple cylinders during this phase. Once up to temperature they were only recorded on cylinder 4. Four has the new coil pack fitted and has had a new plug fitted also. I'm leaning towards this being some sort of vacuum issue but could be barking up the wrong tree here? Having removed the oil filler cap whilst running, the engines... running wasn't affected by this removal. I've felt for vacuum at the end of the breather on the camchain cover and you can feel weak vacuum coming from that breather hose. Really appreciate any help, I struggle to see that the garage would have touched anything else but I assume some hoses would have been disconnected, and potentially moved for easy access to the plugs when it had new plugs. Thank you.

Hey, They're NGK PZFR6R plugs. The car went back to the garage that did the chain who claimed they couldn't feel any misfire and that their solus wouldn't connect to the car. I'm now wondering if anything should have been cleared or reset using that tool or VCDS after the new chain went in. I've checked plugs, air filter still clean and there's not a lot more I can check? I swapped the plug on cylinder 4 for a new one just to be sure it wasn't a doa plug but it made no difference. There is a little soot fouling on the plug that I did remove, it didn't take much force to remove it either. Does anyone know if the engine is actually intelligent enough to know there's a misfire on a specific cylinder or is it based on what the knock sensor is seeing? Should have got her a diesel version as I'm a little more comfortable fault finding on those simple beasts. Thanks so much for your help.

I don’t but am suspecting they may well be the wrong plugs potentially? Not sure if I have a plug socket to check either 😔

I've used the garage for many years - never done anything wrong with my tdi but I don't know whether he does that many timing chains. I was tempted to go and buy a spark plug and try it, but don't really think I should be having to fiddle with the plugs etc myself! Let's hope the timing is correct, as far as I'm aware there's no real way to gauge that using VCDS unfortunately :| My days of tinkering with cars to any great depth are long over and I only have strength in one hand so opt to get things done rather than doing them myself these days! Thank you so much for your reply

Hey all! Quick update, the noise returned very shortly after the new filter so I assumed the worst and booked it in for checking. Long and short of that is - the complete timing assembly was renewed and now there is no more tapping at all on cold starts! However, the car has now developed a new issue where it will not idle smoothly, with the revs flitting between as low as 560 rpm and 640 rpm. You can stabilise this behaviour somewhat by putting on a high load consumer like the AC. Car has plenty of power (I think..... feels flat compared to my bkd but I guess it would with a flat torque curve), but will not keep a smooth idle. The plugs were changed when the timing chain was done, misfire is mainly showing on cylinder 4 in vcds but will sometimes count one on another cylinder. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this? Going to take the car back to the garage that did the work on Friday, the idle was previously smooth whereas now you get a backside massage at times! Ignition timing also has quite some swing which I assume is it trying to stabilise the idle? Thank you :)

Think I'll wait until this oil has a few k on it and then change the filter and extract the oil. Half tempted to extract the oil and not change the filter given it's done all of 300 miles on this filter but something tells me that would be frowned upon! Thanks Phil.

Just to throw a spanner in the works, when Skoda last serviced it - they put 5/40 in it! No idea which to go with now :|

Hey Phil, I previously owned a rover turbo which had the oil changed every 4-5k, I don't go much on this long life servicing malarky myself.... can't see how oil at nearly 20,000 miles old is nearly as good as oil at 10,000. From now on, I think I may get it serviced at the garage once a year and perhaps switch the stuff out myself every six months. Her mileage has increased massively between locations now and so I want to know it's running around on the best oil state it can be! Will get some oil tomorrow and suck the fairly fresh stuff out... think of it as an engine flush I guess! Thank you so much, to you, and all for your help!

So far, so good! I'm very tempted to extract the oil and put some fresh in as the invoice doesn't state the grade filled. I'm assuming the Castrol LL 5-30w is the correct one? Always a bit concerned about the recommendation from online motor factors. I believe 502 00 is the correct vw grade? Thank you all, so much!

Hey all, The part number on this filter is 03C 115 561 H! Looks like the fitted filter is the wrong one :/ Do I tell the garage this or just leave it be? Will fit shortly! Thanks so much for all your help!

I figured enough deliberating over this - I've ordered one from the Skoda dealership in town - will pick it up on my way to work and post back with the part number I'm given!