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gewstarr

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  1. Hi there @clark44 and sorry for a really late answer. I sold my Fabia a couple of years ago and [naturally] havn't been that active ever since that. However, due to the great spirit of this community I still sign in occasionally. Now, to the issue. Actually I never found the culprit, but all advice points towards a small air leak near the intake manifold. Perhaps you've sorted out the issue by now?
  2. Thanks for quick responses, @Wino and @Tech1e. Bad news nonetheless, that means I could pretty much rule out the Hall sensor as well. Something else besides the shaking that I could add to the symptoms is that when you stand in neutral and gently press the pedal, usually, just before it's about to hit 2000 RPM, it blows up to around 2400 RPM without me suddenly being more aggressive on the foot or anything. Also, this just about always happens on the exact same spot, RPM-wise speaking. So, is there any common cause for this? It couldn't simply be some sort of horribly engine design, could it? Gosh, I really need to find the answer here. Thing is, this actually started when the battery had run out completely after the car had been standing for >2 months. I then took the car inside and managed to resurrect it from it's deep drain. I guess having the battery out of the car for so long (a couple of days) would have put some sort of reset on the ECU. Later on, however, I think I may have accidentally have been jumping around channels in the "Basic Settings" (rather than Measuring Blocks) mode in VCDS, which I'm afraid may have caused some bad. Not sure what exactly could have gone wrong by doing this, though. Some say the car will run poor after EGR cleaning and so on, and that it will get better values after driving. Thing is, I haven't driven the car at all since I did the cleaning, since I've put the car "off" (economic reasons), making it illegal to use it at all. However, I've been running the car hot plenty of times, standing on the parking lot for almost an hour just revving the car up and down, probably not exactly to our neighbors' great delight. Anyways, logical thinking, I assume that it's the engine running (RPM) that makes the difference when it comes to ECU finding the best fine-tune values for EGR; not actual driving with different gears etc, so me doing the procedure still on our parking lot would be more or less the same as being on the freeway doing so, correct? Anyways, even if the car was just reset and not fine-tuned I'm guessing it would still not run this poor, so it has to be something else weird going around under the bonnet here. Just not sure what exactly. Should I force a complete reset on the ECU, hopefully this would just clear engine related figures, i.e. not messing up Immobilizer rendering my car completely unusable. If any of you guys here have any other idea about what could be the cause of this, please speak your mind!
  3. Hi guys! Towards the end of last year, I experienced some difficulties after cleaning my EGR and also throttle body. I finally got things running, but since we've gotten ourselves another car this one has actually just been standing on our parking lot since then. Now, the last weeks I've been trying to get it to run, but it's really bad. I've had it reach operating temperature several times, idling for half an hour, but it just doesn't want to play well. Of course, it could be a vacuum clean, but I have this weird gut feeling that this isn't a vacuum leak, but something different. I have replaced the MAP sensor but this hasn't made any difference. The TB is thoroughly cleaned, so this couldn't cause it. I'm not completely sure about the EGR, I may have damaged it since I more or less drowned it in the sink indoors when I cleaned it. However, it clearly responds to 12v in at-home testing. However, what has now made me curious is the so called "Hall sensor" that sits on top of the engine. It doesn't seem to matter if I have this plugged or unplugged, the engine roughness is exactly the same. I don't get any CEL or any other instrument indication, except when I pull the Hall plug it tells me that the wire is out. I've also swapped all spark plugs and checked all spark coils, no trouble there. So, right now I'm leaning towards the Hall sensor theory. What do you guys say? Anyone with a BBY engine who could verify or deny the fact that the engine should behave the same way with it plugged or unplugged? I'm tempted to look for some cheap replacement part over eBay, but I thought I'd ask around here first. Oh, is there something else that I may have overlooked here? Any of the two Lambda sensors? Some say these won't show symptoms until the engine has reached operating temperature though, and my situation is just about the same even if I start the engine cold, so therefor I've more or less ruled them out, plus one of them was replaced 2011. Finally, as a response to kind @Wino from that other (didn't want to resurrect it) thread. In the beginning it got to be somewhat a nightmare. After two days I felt something was wrong; at high gears there was a rattling noise coming from somewhere. I drove to Toyota and the tech who tested the car around the block quickly pinpointed the issue; gearbox bearings was singing on it's last chorus. I was quoted what's equal to roughly £ 1100 to get the bearings replaced, if I ran much longer things could crash and then the entire box would need replacement, which would be even more expensive. I quickly returned to the car dealer, who at first acted like I was talking nonsense, Toyota only wanted money, and so on, and so on. However, I finally got them around, and they replaced the entire gearbox for a used one that had even less miles on it. So, ever since that I'm actually quite happy with the Toyota, except for some minor flaws. If I get the Fabia running again, I'm still not sure which car to keep and which to sell. Even if I like the Toyota, I got this nasty feeling about the dealership since I'm 98% convinced that they knew about the gearbox situation the entire time, and was trying to blow me. Now, I hope anyone around could point me in the right direction here. MOT is soon due (31 of May) and I'm not sure how they (Sweden) will consider this rattling engine. Oh yeah, I know the engine is nasty on the top, but when the air filter housing is of the filler cap is more or less loose from one direction, which I think is simply BBY design. I'll clean it up later.
  4. Thanks for your quick (in contrary to mine, earlier) response @Lee1979, and also for your detailed step-by-step walkthrough, and perhaps most of all for your honesty about the adaptor rings and real 6.5" speakers perhaps not always improving sound ten times from OEM. I must say though, I'm still tempted to give it a go, just for kicks! :-D Skickat från min GT-I9506 via Tapatalk
  5. Gosh, this set of rings has [truth be told] just been lying. Something just didn't feel right about the mounting and I'm afraid that I end up drilling out the OEM ones still not being able to fit the new ones. Don't want to end up stuck in between! :-) I'll give you an update when I dare proceed, perhaps this summer.Skickat från min GT-I9506 via Tapatalk
  6. Is only the electronic lock affected, i mean can you unlock it by hand, purely mechanical force? Skickat från min GT-I9506 via Tapatalk
  7. Guys, I have some news. Actually, I'm not sure if it's a laughing matter or a crying matter, but doubtlessly it's a bit comical when pieces of the puzzle are being put together. Anyways, yesterday I sort of panicked about us going for a ~370 mile drive to my in-laws for the upcoming Christmas, not having a functional car. To make a long story short, me and my girls took the train to Stockholm, went to a dealer, and bought a 02-reg Toyota Corolla Verso with ~137k miles in the odometer, more or less without thinking straight, at all. We drove our new car home. This was yesterday. Today, I went outside to continue messing around with the Fabia, even though I had pretty much given up hope on it. I reassembled the EGR along with pipework, and also the TB. Then I restarted the engine. It started, but hesitated, stalled, and were drive since not willing to even get into it's really rough state. I turned the key and tried giving throttle at the same time, sort of when trying to get an old cold carburetor car running. It hesitated, not willing to live. Suddenly the low fuel warning symbol came up, along with it's beep. I decided to not kill the battery entirely by tormenting the starter engine. I got a 5 liter plastic gas tank and took my bike down to the station and got it filled up. Back to the parking lot, filled the tank, and tried starting the car again. Now engine fired up, but it was really rough. Sounded even worse than before. So, earlier I had constant misfire specifically on cylinder 1 and 2, hence my belief that I was dealing with an air leak, since this online article had explained cause and effect pretty well. Anyways, I had taken out all plugs / coils in order to perform that compression test earlier, and since that they had just been lying in random order on the floor of the car. Now I had re-plugged them, just as randomly. When I re-read codes in VCDS Lite at this stage I seemed to get specific misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, all of a sudden. After clearing and re-running, the same codes reoccurred, over and over again. Three times, four times, always the same first and third cylinder. Weird, huh? I did some more swapping only to make sure it was consistent, and then let one earlier assumed dead spark coil back into play, and redid the test. Now there was suddenly only one cylinder misfiring, #2. I suddenly recalled what I had been told at an earlier stage in this discussion, "It's electrical", an idea which now re-bloomed in my head. I got on my bike and went to Biltema, which is pretty much a Swedish equivalent to Halfords. They have aftermarket spark coils and I always buy them there since they are roughly half the price of OEM VW coils. Unsure about how quality differs, but when I bought this car there was only VW coils and two of these were burned in only a four month period. Anyways, now I bought myself one, and bicycled back and swapped the final spark coil. Cleared codes, and restarted engine. Voila, all of a sudden I had smooth running again. Did play with the gas pedal and revs came smooth as a whistle, no sign of engine management light coming on. Now, first I suspected that the spark coil that I had had lying in the trunk in case of emergency ever since this summer had simply been bad from the get-go, and that this stupid aftermarket piece had not only led me not only into spending days of beating around the bush for troubleshooting, but also into going for a new car. To be honest, I was pretty angry for a moment there. Now, what's done is done, and it got to be a somewhat happy ending after all, right? I gathered my two bad spark coils from the asphalt and laid one last good look on them. Then I noticed something. The black rubber gasket in one of them was much thicker than in the other one. Really weird. Then the pieces fell into place, in just a second. You know that rubber piece that is often seen inside of spark coil sockets, to help one fish the spark plug up from the hole? Earlier when changing spark plugs I had noticed that the rubber on my spark plug socket was only like, half, but I had quickly dismissed it as something that came from some earlier episode. Now, however, I finally understood it all. When I had messed around with the spark plugs earlier, one spark plug must have had the rubber piece still on it when I pushed the spark coil onto it. Damn it, I recall how I noticed how one spark coil felt stiff in the end when pushing it down, but I had dismissed it like some sort of other wear. Yeah guys, this story is comical and tragic at the same time. I was inattentive when doing the spark plugs, a piece of rubber from the socket managed to get stuck into the new spark coil, not allowing it to sit hence work properly, leading me to think the problem originated elsewhere in the system. I still wrap my head around trying to figure how in the process I ended up with two bad spark plugs, given I replaced one that was obviously dead with a new one I managed to get a blocking piece of rubber into, should be only one bad coil in the cylinder bay, in total? Anyways, I did lots of swapping in desperation, so I must have thrown the first faulty one back in somewhere in the process. Anyways, I'm not bitter, not at all. Before this mess, I had never dared touching the petrol fuel rail or it's injectors, I didn't know where the MAP sensor sat, and I did not know that you could push the rear seat forward and gain access to a hidden lid where you can unplug and withdraw the entire fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank. I have learned so much through this lesson, and grown as a person during the process. Also, now I have not only one but two cars in my possession. I look back at an encouraging one-liner ("Keep fighting, you will win") dropped earlier in this thread, and find myself smiling. Yeah, I finally won. Can't thank you guys enough for being on my side throughout this long journey. I would have collapsed early if I hadn't had the great support from @Wino, @sepulchrave, @rum4mo, and @felicia16v. You guys are the best, I don't think any car brand in the world has this awesome online community. Cheers! TL;DR: Car runs great now!
  8. Trying to blow air into it right now. It's not completely clogged but blowing takes some real effort, like twenty times more than to blow air into a balloon. Not sure how this passage is supposed to be, though.
  9. My EGR valve may be healthy after all. Haven't got it confirmed but I found this thread where someone is checking his EGR valve with multimeter. Now I did the same, and my results are defenitely not far from his. Between pin 1 and 5 -> 8.4O Ohm Between pin 2 and 3 -> 2.13 kOhm Between pin 2 and 6 -> 2.38 kOhm Between pin 4 and 6 -> 1.03 kOhm I guess this would pretty much rule out the possibilty of a faulty valve. One thing I haven't tried yet, though, is unplugging the valve and read voltage from the actual connector when pushing throttle, i mean to see that it's actually getting feed. Could be the loom / wire harness after all? Perhaps, perhaps. Oh, by the way, not to sound completely stupid but, if the valve is in fact a pretty basic thing, being either open or closed, what's the need for all it's pins? Shouldn't two single pins be enough? Or is the EGR acting some sort of controller itself? Pretty confusing. Another thing I wonder is about the possibility of some clogged hose. You know the black rubber hose that goes into the engine cover (containing air filter). Should I feel either blowing or suction from this hose when the engine is running? If so, it's probably clogged, because it's completely windless calm from that hose. I also found this ancient thread about the crankcase breather. I'm getting confused of all dozens of possibilities. This couldn't have nothing to do with my situation, now could it? I will run the "Output tests - 03" in VCDS Lite tomorrow, @Wino.
  10. Hehe, since this is a LHD car the drilled hole (through the firewall) for coupe heater is at the right side of the car (passenger), i.e. diagonal from the battery. I have a subwoofer lying in the trunk and the cable was just about long enough to make the run so it's a really wacky solution. It usually just lies on top of the plastic engine cover. It was though to be very temporary (till I got to buy longer cable) but it's been over a year. Time flies, really! I've re-adapted 074 and 060 several times. No progress. Is doing 00 really absolutely necessary? Doesn't this reset just about everything. I'm not keen on needing to redo windows, central locks, etc. Nice! I saw some article where they explained that most engines has a testing port for fuel pressure. I was actually meaning to ask here if the Fabia has such. Now I know. Those tools are pretty expensive (> £ 200) where I live though. I found one box on eBay (from far East) for only ~ £ 20 though. I wonder if this will fit, it was told to contain a 1/4" adapter. It said nothing about Schrader, though. Oh. But then I guess I could let my lady hold the throttle steady on let's say ~3000 RPM while I stand before the engine bay and plug/unplug the connector, back and forth. Would be a sufficient test for seeing any instant results? Loved that idea about "Actuator test", you don't remember exactly what "Measuring blocks" page it was on? I found this article on Ross-Tech webpage, which seem to be a pretty handy for knowing what groups to look for. Not sure about how accurate it is for the Mk1 Fabia, though. I also found this old thread here on Briskoda, with someone getting output tests (really sorry for my bad grammar earlier) on resistance. I haven't done any Ohm readings myself just yet, but I did take the valve out just half an hour ago, took it in and with some help managed to test feeding it with a 12/2A power supply. Look below, you can see both sides of the valve. On one side, the pin in the middle is just spinning around, and on the other side, it's moving up and down, but it looks like it doesn't go all the way. I'm not sure about how it should look. Anyone who can lay me a verdict out of this? Cheers!
  11. You mean pressing the Schrader valve under the blue little cap on the right of the fuel injector rail? Nah, I skipped that step. However, been running/troubleshooting the car on idle for so long after so any air pocket(s) should have vanished, I mean been passed through the system, back to the tank or wherever air lands. Even if not, could this cause this engine? My gut feeling tells me this isn't the source of the problem. Actually, I'm starting to move back against the idea of a broken EGR valve. After all, this all started a couple of days after my intense ultrasonic cleaning of this piece. I've dug up dozens of articles on vacuum leaks and most agree that often the first or first plus second cylinder is affected, which is exactly my case. In fact, I'm guessing my EGR is stuck open. It failed to operate after starting that car that day, and it took ~50 meters of driving (just of the parking) before the surplus air made impact, starting to cause misfire, ECL, etc. This is a theory only. But hey, earlier during troubleshooting I had the car on it's rough idle, and the unplugged the EGR live, and there was absolutely no audible/notable difference in engine performance. Plugged, unplugged. Plugged, unplugged, engine still running exactly the same. If you have a healthy intake system (and EGR valve), is it supposed to be like this, or will you more or less note an instant difference? If so, that's even more (substantial) evidence that my EGR had failed. Actually, this morning I decided to try something wild and crazy. I took a paring knife from the kitchen drawer and went out with it. I unscrewed the copper pipe from the inlet/throttle housing just enough to fit the knife blade in there. Plan was for it to be a wall, i.e. simulating a fully closed valve. Started the engine. It behaved somewhat difference. I had at least ½ smooth running for ~1 second, then rough running for the next second, and then loop back to a second of smoother running, and so on. Looked in the engine bay. It was whistling from where I had placed the paring knife blade. Obviously my troubleshooting solution was far from airtight. Is this something to spin further upon? Someone with a developing recipe? I thought about removing the valve itself and put 12v/GND on pin 1/5, but I'd rather not use a direct power source such as the car battery. Anyone with intel on approx how many ampere I'll need to see valve movement? Skickat från min GT-I9506 via Tapatalk
  12. Hey guys, due to work I had to put the project on hold for a day, but at least today I have some progress as for what troubleshooting goes. I first swapped coils and plugs a bit randomly. Still getting a pretty consistent fault on cylinder 1 and 2. Then I removed all plugs and coils, and went for that compression tester I mentioned earlier. I'm not 100% sure about the correct way of doing this, but I screwed the thing on the first cylinder, then went in and held ignition in three cycles, approx 6 seconds each. Then I read results, pressed the release button so it got back to 0 bar, unscrewed, and went on to the next cylinder. After all four were done, results turned out like this. #1) #2) #3) #4) Around 17 bar (~250 psi) on all cylinders. Is this to be considered normal for a 2003 BBY engine? If my head gasket were blown, would it be likely for compression to be lower, or more uneven? It would be a great relief if this pretty much rules out the possibility of mechanical cylinder failure. Of course, I'm no mechanic, so I wouldn't know. I'm thinking about the MAP sensor as well, but it's weird that it seems to be mostly cyl. #1 & #2 that are affected. If the air pressure sensor was bad, wouldn't the misfire even out between all four cylinders? The same fact pretty much brings my theory about the fuel pump into weak stuff. One thing I find weird is the suddenness of the failure. Car started okey, got of the parking lot driveway, then bam, and she has not been the same since. When I reattached the MAP sensor after some quick cleaning, I only used one of the two T15 screws holding it to the manifold, since the lower one sat bad and I wasn't sure if it was worth going the mile since I could be removing the sensor again anytime. So, it could be that it's not 100% vacuum there right now, yet almost. Feels unlikely to be the cause though, since situation evolved before I had removed the sensor. Ideas? [emoji1]
  13. You're right, problem remains even if I have the air filter / cover on. Anyways, these were the fault codes I had in memory before that last erase. VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Sunday, 08 November 2015, 21:29:58:37164 Control Module Part Number: 036 906 034 CB Component and/or Version: MARELLI 4MV G 4831 Software Coding: 00071 Work Shop Code: WSC 13765 VCID: 54DB6E7FB7E3 Additional Info: TMBHC26Y833807906 SKZ7Z0C1924276 7 Faults Found: 16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals: Implausible Correlation P1553 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17912 - Intake Air System: Leak Detected P1504 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 17564 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Open/Short to Ground P1156 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High P0113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Quite a few, heh. After erasing and restarting car it actually ran without immediately firing away the CEL. Idle was pretty steady in terms of RPM, but still shaky, like misfiring-shaky. I pressed the throttle a couple of times but still no CEL. Then I got into 1:st gear and released clutch. Now I felt that it was definitely still something wrong. Lack of power, indeed so. After only a few meters the CEL turned back on. I circled the lot back into my parking space, and re-read codes. VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2 Sunday, 08 November 2015, 22:01:42:37164 Control Module Part Number: 036 906 034 CB Component and/or Version: MARELLI 4MV G 4831 Software Coding: 00071 Work Shop Code: WSC 13765 VCID: 54DB6E7FB7E3 Additional Info: TMBHC26Y833807906 SKZ7Z0C1924276 3 Faults Found: 16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected P0302 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent 16687 - Cylinder 3: Misfire Detected P0303 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Sad. One thing strange I noticed, though. When I turned the car key from position 0 to 1, there was a really weird sound coming from somewhere in the rear. I'm guessing it's the petrol pump. I turned the key back to 0 and then back to 1, same weird sound. It was like a slurping sound. Weird. Don't think the fuel filter has been replaced on this car for at least 5 years, but that shouldn't cause this sort of sudden problem, would it? I mean, the car started fine that evening when I was about to take it for a drive, then less than 100 meters from the parking lot it suddenly started shaking, and ever since that moment it has never acted healthy. Apart from fuel filter, could the fuel pump itself be on it's way out? Any easy way to inspect it, or do you need to get in under the car, somewhere near the fuel filter? Is it possible to do testing and/or adaption on it via VCDS on Fabia Mk1's? I just spotted this article on Ross-Tech, describing some sort of process. There was also a Youtube video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZYJjMNfQ-I Gosh, I'm aware that this has traveled far away from my original post, and it's probably only unfortunate circumstances / bad timing, i.e. not even related to the EGR cleaning, but I really hope to find an happy ending. Yeah, @Wino, I'll do the test tomorrow. I remember doing the test not long after me and my lady bought it. All cylinders showed approximately 13 kg/cm² which I believe is pretty much normal. Hopefully it'll be the same now. What could compression (or lack of such) tell me? Could I use results to rule out cable harness / wire loom, for instance?
  14. More on this. I unscrewed the two 5 mm Allen bolts holding the fuel injector rail. I had read in Haynes about first depressurize the system, but this seemed to be a complicated task involving reach for the fuel filter, so I skipped it and just pulled the rail. First time I mess with these little fellows. Used a slotted screwdriver to undo the clips holding the nozzles. After undoing one there was only a few drops coming, but after undoing the second it started pouring gasoline from both holes, some sort of beer bong mechanism, I guess. I was quick to put one nozzle back, so it stopped. Ran in with the other (#1) and had it in ultra sonic cleaner for three minutes, only water. Went back out, swapped 1 and 2 and reassembled the rail. O-rings were fine by the way. Now, I managed to undo the two T15 screws holding the MAP sensor. I must say these were not in the smoothest of places, really tricky reaching them without dropping them in the engine bay. I have mad sausage fingers. Anyways, sensor came off, it looked pretty okey on first inspection, but I sprayed it with brake cleaner anyways and tried pushing some steel wool inside the small entity in it. Think I managed to bend some pig in the middle during this operation, but I bent it back to the center before I plugged it back in. Still getting misfire and different fault codes. Different cylinders, and also fuel trim, bank 1. Now, lying here wondering, I suddenly got an idea. You know the big black plastic engine cover containing the air filter? During all these attempts to get the engine running smooth again, deleting fault codes, running with/without EGR/MAP connected/disconnected, I have never bothered putting it back between attempts. I've pulled the vacuum hose from it and it's currently lying in the trunk. I know it's not good bypassing the air filter, but this couldn't be the cause of this terrible idle, could it? It would definitely be an embarrassing end to this story. Think I'll head out right away, erasing codes one last time, and actually put the hose and engine cover back on before starting the car. I'll report back!
  15. Gosh. Now I've more or less excluded the possibility of spark plug / coil. It's not even misfire fault codes (after resetting) anymore, but fuel bank (1). Engine shakes like a alcoholic on detox, though. I've unbolted the EGR and tried to see how the engine acts with it being tight versus not. This is the result, ultimately the car stalled, as you can see in the end of the video.
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