dohnjoe
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Posts posted by dohnjoe
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@lox
I understand you perfectly.
there are a few things I would like to comment.
any car has a market value and a sentimental value.
the cold fact is that it is very hard to find a buyer ready to bring cash close to sentimental value.
I love my Felicia to death and I would like to see 'modern' cars lasting in such good shape.
as for the market value... it is too depressing to even mention it.
furthermore, our government introduced 4 months ago a so called 'environmental tax' that basically has to be payed by every buyer of a new or used car.
the tax for a 1997 Felicia is 450 Euro
but I see many new Euro 4/5 cars that stink of unburnt fuel while my nonEuro car is smell free...
what chances are a buyer would pay that tax on top of the price of the car?
zero.
so anyways, I see 2 options for your car.
1) the kind gift
- give it as a gift to a relative, or to a less fortunate young student, mom, etc.
2) the somehow profitable deal
- sell parts from it on ebay or in here.
some old factory parts are much better than new 3rd party parts.
if I would live close to you I would help you strip it nicely.
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spare keys you can get only from Skoda dealers.
it is not only about cutting the key from a blank, keys have a chip inside.
part 26 you mentioned is probably the one in the photo.
I wouldn't bother myself changing it.
in fact I took it out because all rain water, dirt, leaves, etc. were piling inside fan housing.
the other rubber part is not identifiable from your description.
nonetheless it is not made anymore and a scrapyard is the only solution.
anyways, if those parts are your biggest concern... you have a brilliant car.
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part # 032906031A
it is also used in VW Golf 3, Vento, Polo 6N, Lupo, Skoda Octavia, Seat Cordoba, Ibiza, Toledo, Arosa with the engine codes AEE / ALM
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there are numerous topics dedicated and also guides in Classic Technical Guides section.
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Shipping costs from the continent are extrordinary.
that is what dealers say to charge you an arm.
I occasionally order my parts online directly if I feel my local parts dealer tries to rob me.
I mentioned Czech sites only to prove there is no such thing as parts shortage.
there are also lots of Slovak and Polish sites too that sell Felicia parts.
as for the shipping price... that happens when you live far away on an island.
but you have to decide if it is better no parts at all for your car or a bit more expensive parts.
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With most VAG cars you are able to re set the gear cables
there is not such thing as 'gear cables' in Felicia.
I suspect too the problem is related to gear shift linkage (GSL).
sloppiness of GSL and a clutch cable not properly set are most common problems.
a GSL is good if there is no play and if it is not bent from hitting a rock (see http://www.autoopravy.eu/index.php?akce=2&id=121)
send my regards to your mechanic for guessing it is a clutch problem because he could be payed royally.
I would be very suspicious he really changed the clutch, unless he let you watch.
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Czech suppliers have almost every imaginable part for Felicia.
if parts are missing in UK, it is local dealers' fault.
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these two jokers actually use the cotton rope with good results..
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I will try to change first only the valve stem seals without taking out the cylinders head.
here is my plan:
- take off rocker arms shaft
- insert some 3 feet of thick cotton rope through spark plug hole leaving one end out
- raise the piston to TDC to press on valves from below
- take off valve springs using an improvised device (see photo)
- remove old valve stem seals and insert new ones using a long tubular socket
what do you think?
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The middle gauge wasn't working properly I think it's due to the different wheels!!
I guess you call 'middle gauge' what is universally named as speedometer.
in order to decide if it is not indicating properly because you don't have standard tyres, you have to use a GPS and tell me:
- what tyres you got
- what speed is GPS showing when the speedometer points at 30 mph
- what speed is GPS showing when the speedometer points at 55 mph
based on that data I'll be able to tell you if the speedometer is in specs or it needs a (fairly easy) new calibration because its needle was installed wrong after a past removal.
in my opinion your dashboard should match the quality of engine & body restoration you put so much work in.
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Cheers dohnjoe, I guess the only way to check the part number on the gauge it to strip the clocks?
Not sure if I fancy that tbh
no pain, no gain.
although it's 15 minutes job to get to it.
at least for me, because I did it tens of times on different Felicias.
but anyways, if you are 100% sure you got the original instrument cluster, then it is the wrong sender you are using.
there is a guy on this forum that I helped him with the exact same problem.
he feared too he has a head gasket issue.
although as I said there are other obvious signs for that, not just overheating.
it turned out he bought a bad temp. sender when he changed the thermostat.
one other very common problem at 1.6l engines is the new thermostat doesn't match the housing.
their plunger is a little shorter and doesn't butt in the housing hence doesn't open completely.
or the stopper of the housing is broke off.
the solution? a new (thermostat housing + thermostat) as a kit.
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the temperature sender has to be perfectly paired with temperature gauge.
there are 3 types of temp. senders and 3 types of temp. gauges for Felicia.
check part numbers of both and tell us what they are.
only after this verification you can suspect bad thermostat, fan switch or head gasket, although for the latter there are obvious signs.
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I wonder why nobody mentioned how easy it is to remove the switches if you first take out the 2 holding pins...
see first photo.
in second photo I show the steps:
1) slide metallic pins (depicted in blue) purple arrows
2) press firmly on both upper/lower tabs (red arrows) while
3) push out switch (yellow arrow)
so actually it is a clever design
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that would be the insulating flange for the injector unit.
the injector is only part 9 in the above drawing.according to ETKA catalog there are 2 models of insulating flanges:
- one for cars made before 08.94, part no. 005124237
- one for cars made from 09.94, part no. 007762277
both parts are easy to find all across Europe i.e. herebut google on part no. to find it local or ebay.
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what rubber mounting are you talking about?
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Just thought I'd update this.
well done, this is the only reason that motivates us to keep helping.
the final solution of the repair.
everybody will learn from it.
Gave the switches a complete bath in cleaner and it is now better but still not fixed.
that means you're getting closer.
I still get a double wipe when starting the car. I was looking at changing the switches but that looks a nightmare. Does the top shroud have to come off and if so does the steering column have to be dropped?
no (see photos)
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if the car idles naturally between 590 and 840 rpm I'd say that is a very rough idle.
that looks like a vacuum leak or dirty throttle body.
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Maybe cause the problem the fuse box (Water-corrosion problem!) ???
it is too big coincidence that both headlight fuses (and only them) were corroded.
I suggest turn ignition on, switch headlights on and start wiggling each wire that get into relay/fuse panel.
have a friend tell you if headlights flicker while doing that.
then use the handle of a screwdriver to tap on each relay and fuse and again see if the headlights flicker.
tap on the headlights switch too.
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check if fuses S7 and S8 are good (measure them, not just replace them)
check for corrosion at headlight connectors.
are the side lights (parking lights) working?
if all is good you have a broken headlights switch.
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in case the relay/fuse panel is looking good there may be a ground circuit missing.
remove the lower cover panel below steering wheel (1 screw) and you'll see 2 ground points where a bunch of brown wires meet.
wiggle those wires to check if one is loose.
if everything is good remove the upper cover panel of the steering wheel and check for loose wires going to directional lights switch and wipers switch.
if all is good, one or both switches are bad.
what happens when you engage first speed of wipers?
left blinker lights?
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the only known issue of relay/fuse panel is water dripping on it from a bad windscreen seal and corrosion.
that water has the bad habit of causing odd short circuits inside.
look for signs of moisture first.
look for signs of melted wires too.
any prior event/repair related to wiring or electrical circuit?
Felicia '97 - No cabin lights, clock or lighter
in Skoda Favorit, Skoda Felicia, Skoda Fun and Skoda Forman
Posted
1) you may have a short in that circuit and fuse 15 is burnt as soon is replaced
2) you have an electrical improvisation to feed an auxiliary equipment (radio, alarm, etc)
as the majority of other members asking for help, you don't mention how the problem started.
was it out of the blue?
was it during other repairs?
was it after an accident?
was it after a heavy rain? (leaks in relay box)
any hint will get you useful answers quicker instead letting us guess.