coupe
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Posts posted by coupe
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Ok took door card off and undid metal plate and just managed to prise open bottom right corner enough to get my hand in making sure not to bend inner window frame and sure enough the connector had come away. Alot of feeling as not able to see in managed to get connector back on and made sure it was securely on the terminal catch.
Bit fiddley but now works fine.
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Seems reasonable.
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Some time ago I replaced the window frame in the drivers door. After fully reassembling the only thing that didn't work was when I used the central locking it didn't work on the drivers door. So maybe I didn't fully engage the electrical connector to the door lock (thought I had) will have a look but before doing so is there anything else which could be wrong. I'm assuming there isn't a specific fuse for the drivers door but if anyone has any experience such as this it would be appreciated.
Thanks
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Ok did it all. Now lets see what happens.
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Need to replace head gasket on Skoda Fabia 2002 1.4 but I'm told by Skoda that they don't have them anymore (strange). Anyone recommend a good replacement product. There are several on eBay etc. but I would prefer to buy a "good" product if someone can make a recommendation.
Thanks.
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On the suspension struts is a rubber bellow cover which has become detached on the top and bottom. I can pull the bottom down over to keep it in place but not the top. Is there a magic answer as don't really want to have to go to the trouble of removing strut.
Thanks
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Followed lock repair videos and just want to make sure as pictures/videos don't show offset that I have the parts the right way around although I don't believe it will go together around the other way and the circlip should come from the front of the lock to the rear?
Thanks
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Thanks TMB you were spot on the cylinder wasn't correctly lined up for it to come out. The top torx fits into a hole in the cylinder (picture 2) to lock it into place and the bottom rotates a ring which when lined up correctly (note for me the lined up correctly 🙂) and it just pops out.
Ordered a lock barrel repair kit from Skoda (about £3.50) and fingers crossed.
In the guide the pictures are blurred with photobucket printed over them but the write up is fine. TMB's picture helped a lot to explain it.
Thank you for all the help.
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So the lower of the 2 torx’s screws accessed from the outside of the door. If I turn it I’ll see the locking ring turn.
Thanks for this.
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Thanks for this. How do I turn it? From the inside pushing with a screwdriver or should I have done something else first?
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Not done well here. Window regulator gone and end of lock spindle broken, spring part. Read up about door lock removal in Haynes manual and forums, removed top torx screw (20) and loosened bottom screw three turns. Lifted handle but it will not come out. Am I missing something. I've damaged the door surround to the lock trying to prise it out (should have been more careful but getting peed off. The spindle barrel in the lock has also come out.
I can order new lock kit to repair but is it too far gone?
Not a good day.
Any help appreciated.
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Ok. Many thanks for posting this. Much appreciated.
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Thanks for all this as my wife's Fabia had a wet patch on the drivers footwell after all the rain (thought it was a dead animal somewhere!) Water not coming in from the door. I tried to remove the wipers but they weren't going to budge easily so I managed to rig up a small tube attached to Henry and slowly sucked out all the gunge under the wiper cover. There was lots of it. On inspection there is a rubber bung underneath the wiper motor. From underneath after removing the mud shield you can see the same rubber bung which has wires going through the centre for the side indicator (and something else?) I could not see any other exit. I've cleaned all this up and much crap (leaves, soil etc.) came out so hopefully this will sort it out? Question is - is this the only exit for water from the top shelf under the wiper motor area? Incidentally managed to overheat the Henry this way but after cooling down all ok.
Thank you. (Should have taken a photo).
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Good point. Hoping the picture would help. Brought up with carbs. Best being a BMW Alpina, triple twin Weber’s. Oh the fun of it.
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Saw no replies. Strange one this. Did you ever sort it. When rebuilding do some stupid things myself but usually work it out. Cant see how replacing the seals would cause this problem.
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In case it helps someone in the future. Pipe 1 goes to carb and pipe 2 goes to injector rail. Head gasket straightforward. Removed inlet and exhaust manifolds from head before removal. Hayes manual suggests leaving manifolds on. Found it easier to remove but I did spray bolts with WD40 for 48 and 24 hours and just before removing so came off ok. Needed breaker bar to remove head bolts very carefully to avoid snapping. That was really the only difficult bit.
Biggest problem was getting the rocker box off! Didn't realise the washers underneath the 10mm nuts were also screwed on. Took me a little while to twig.
Just remember when reassembling to put the brackets back before the head bolts. Probably better to get the pistons half way up and make carboard templates to ensure pushrods and head bolts kept in same order.
Gaskets were about £40.00 from Skoda for Head, Inlet and Exhaust. Head skim £66.00 (incl. VAT). New oil, filter and coolant.
Going ok so far but a bit early to tell.
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Worked it out. All fine. Thanks for all the replies.
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Has anybody got a diagram or photo of the fuel pipe connections to fuel rail and carb for the above. Just rebuilding after head gasket and should have labeled but forgot. Just want to make sure I get them around the right way. And the breather pipe to carb - just check which pipe goes where on carb as there's 2 inlet pipes on carb. See image. (feel a bit daft!). Couldn't find an exact match on web for engine code and nothing in manuals on the web or Hayes really helps. I can probably work it out but anything will help.
Thank you.
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Have 99% sure Head Gasket Failure. Excessive pressure in header tank, coolant loss (although slow) moisture on oil filler cap and around oil filler. I've changed thermostat (genuine Skoda) so going to Skoda parts for new gasket. http://www.skodaparts.com/product/fabia-cylinder-head-gasket-1-4-8v-2000-2007-27388
Do I need Head Gasket, Exhaust and Inlet Gaskets only. Will check head for warping but if no good will probably scrap car. I know bolts are tricky to remove but anything else I should be wary of? Assume nowhere near cambelts etc. Any assistance greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Thanks. Just curious. Must be the third bottle albeit over 80k miles since we had it. New one has sorted it.
Thanks
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Interesting so if the bottle goes from empty to full you get no change in current or resistance? Capacitive would still give a reading somewhere or am I missing it completely.
Thanks for the response.
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Did mine. You’ll need good facia levers and probably spare door clips that hold the card to the door as they go brittle and snap. Take your time easing off slowly. Clips not expensive on fleebay just get the right ones . Waterproof sealant and time. Now it’s fine despite the weather. No damp rear carpet and no fogging on inside after a couple of years. Don’t know why manufacturer never sorted as understand it’s still a problem.
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Skoda Fabia Mk1. Many threads on this and the answer on later tanks is to just replace (light flashing when starting - switch on and off when warm - goes away) as you can't get at the prongs but does anyone know how to test the tank sensor itself? Assume it's not a simple on off but more likely resistance. If I put a meter across the contacts on the tank what can I test for to see if it's working correctly or not. Just curious really.
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No. just tried it and made no difference. Thanks anyway.
Resetting Gear Linkage/Shifter
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
Posted
I appreciate this is an old topic but just did this to my Skoda Fabia Mk1 2002 where initially 1st was difficult to engage then reverse went. On this car I only needed to remove engine cover (really to make life easier) and air feed tube, then I had complete access to the linkages. They were a bit stiff so I WD40 them and then clipped up the springs (anti clockwise I think to lock). Locked gearshift with 5mm drill and plenty of masking tape on end so it didn't slip down! Then this was the slightly uncertain bit. Pushed bracket down on gearbox and locked the bracket and pushed the pin in (incidentally this does come out so be careful) to where I believe the bracket was locked i.e. didn't move much. Anyway released springs, unlocked gear shift and now first and reverse are fine but 5th is difficult to engage. Not sure having watched the video again I locked the pin correctly.
Now I can just do it again but can anyone clarify exactly what has to be done to the locking pin on the gearbox change bracket in the engine? Should the bracket be pushed in approx. 1/2" then the pin pushed in and point upwards to lock and bracket should be locked - then release cable springs and afterwards release pin by pushing down again on bracket and turning pin down? Not sure I got this exactly right.
Any advise appreciated - Thank you.