dean191

https://youtu.be/EHq2BG6L9TI It's all about the hazard lights, for anyone who falls over this thread on Google whilst they're sat on their drive pressing buttons line a wally.

My bad. Important to get these fitted by folk who know what they're doing with VAGs though normally. I had one fitted with a poorly calibrated actuator and it needed a VW specialist to put it right. Not an easy DIY job I'm told and pretty much impossible without vcds. Anyone can bolt one on and if the reconditioner has done his job then it'll run perfectly, unfortunately it's just not the case sometimes! A mechanic friend of mine has had all sorts of issues with poor boosting replacement turbos, can only really be down to the calibration of the vnt actuator surely? 500 euros would be a good price of you can get it done for that.

What's up with the one that's on there? A lot of turbo problems aren't really turbo problems and one particular turbo problem can be cured with a bit of oven cleaner. Avoid eBay, can be a bit of a lottery. There's a few cowboys about that will happily sell you an expensive lump of scrap and deny any wrong doing. I'd spend my money at somewhere reputable like darkside developments who know these engines back to front.

Cheers guys I'll get my man to chuck a fresh bit of oil in there when it gets serviced next. At least then I know I've done something towards making it better! I've heard of tweaking the linkages but my local VW specialist hadn't even I took it for an (expensive) 'approved' service a few months ago? I'll take it to a proper mechanic next time! Not sure this car has ever had a proper mechanic work on it, it'll be a nice change! Thanks again lads

64 Facelift mk2 2.0cr, just under 60k, nice enough old bus but I find it difficult to drive smoothly sometimes with a bit of a notch when changing up to 2nd. You can alleviate it a bit by letting the stick centre itself in neutral then going for 2nd or double declutching or even just giving it a couple of seconds but all these things take time and annoy me a little bit. Curiously enough it doesn't do it from 3rd to 2nd like a weak synchro might. Seems to be better if you run it longer in 1st before changing up. Clutch feels really good, engages and disengages perfectly so I'm pretty sure that's not hanging on for a bit and causing it. Seems better on a nice, cold morning. If I didn't know any better, and I don't, I'd say the oil in the gearbox could be causing it? Anyone else have an issue like this? What did you do to fix it? Cheers guys and gals Dean

Thanks for the reply Mr Biting point is constant and consistent so I'm happy that the slave isn't misbehaving. Spoke to my mechanic today and he reckons to give the clutch a good slip pulling away hardish in 2nd every once in a while helps them, explains why it felt a bit better after giving it the old Italian tune up the other night! If that doesn't work I think you're right and start at the bottom with fresh oil. Maybe the thinnest grade I can get away with. I've heard of vag offering different grades of oil but that could just easily be internet bull crap.

2014 f/l 2.0cr kombi. Had it for about 6 months now and the gear shift is driving me up the wall a bit, seems to be getting more 'notchy' notably between 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Not sure if it's just me? Double clutching seems to help, some days it feels better than others. I've read about folk using different types of oil, I'm thinking maybe the clutch isn't letting go (should be worse on the downshift though right? But it isn't) or is there something that could be adjusted? I got a bit fed up with it on the way home tonight and gave it a bit of a hiding and it felt as right as rain afterwards! Any ideas guys?

Morning guys. My vrs pd (bmn) recently had a turbo fitted by a bunch of absolute cowboys, recommended by a 'mate', and it's not been great since. I had to spend a few quid getting a few issues put right over the last year, not the best job I've ever had done. The latest one is 14psi of boost (should be 22 odd) and slow, jerky progress. The main symptom is I have to suck really hard on the actuator pipe to get the thing to bottom out, I'm thinking sticky vanes? I'm pretty sure the slightest vacuum on there should move it all the way? Sticky vanes on a brand new (shiiiiiiiitttte) turbo bodes well doesn't it?

Just had my turbo reconned for the second time by a local 'specialist', first time it was super noisy and drinking a fair bit of expensive pd oil. This time it's taking ages to come on boost, not really ever hitting 22psi (according to the torque app at least) and boosts harder as the revs climb. I'm thinking another dodgy recon. I'm going to run it back to the garage again and moan at them again and they'll try and mug me off again so I'm not really looking for solutions at this stage (unless you're breaking a 170pd with a good turbo lol) but more interested to hear from anyone else who might have replaced their turbo with something worse be it from a motor factor or a 'specialist'. Any input greatfully received :) Cheers guys

Hello Dozer. Wouldn't know how to do that? Does that need the proper snap on scanner? My mate who looks after my cars had a vw bloke look over it today and found a broken wire to the turbo actuator, which when reconnected made it double slow. Reckons the actuator is clapped as it's only opening half way or something. At least he might be on the right track now, might have it back for next week. When I was a lad a turbo actuator had a single vacuum pipe and it either worked out it didn't. Stuff is Sooooooooo over complicated these days! I hate cars.

Evening chaps The old shed on wheels developed a serious bit of sluggishness the other day after a long run back from Cornwall. Quickly scanned it and no new codes came up but the widget on the screen suggested the throttle was already open 95% with no throttle on. Took it on an A road and gave it a battering which livened it right up and it was back to it's normal whizzy self. Ok for two days then the Mrs went shopping today with the baby on board and it went back to snail mode. No new codes, throttle more or less stuck on 95%, not much in the way of boost (7lb) and slower than a '95 Mondeo ex taxi with the governor wound right out. Is the above a sign the pedal and associated sensory is well past it's best or possibly something else? MAF readings seem plausible. Any ideas guys?

Don't think so, pretty sure it's just had the sensors mapped out. It was done by a local garage who done all the taxis. I bought it on the Wednesday and by the Thursday it was in limp mode and we were going on holiday on Friday. The dealer paid for the dpf-ectomy but I didn't have time to do my research and that properly, just happy to have a working car you know? In retrospect I'd have taken it somewhere clever like darkside and had it done right. Our local vag tuner only does revo and they didn't have dpf delete PD software at the time. All I know is next time I'm getting a petrol lol. Last diesel for me, been a fan for years now but I think I'm done.

Ignore everything above. Took it out for a good hiding when I went fishing tonight and in 5th it was quite hesitant. 4th was fine but 5th rubbish. Hate modernish diesels. Over complicated pain in the poop chute! The sensor I unplugged was the right angled pipe looking one on the top of the filter can. Two wires, brown multi plug on the bulkhead at the top.

56/07 vrs PD 160k between DPFs at the moment. Had a problem with it in higher gears about 3krpm huffing and puffing like it was running out of fuel. Read up a bit on the internet and the EGT sensor looked like it could well be the villain. I tried to measure the ohms as per internet destructions but didn't get a reading at all? Completely open circuit? Unplugged it, no error codes, ran like a watch, pulls like a train above 3k now. Would have thought the sensor would have been one of those mapped out by the dpf bloke? I'm not going to cause it any harm running with it unplugged am I? Can't imagine it was working in the first place on any level anyway tbh. What are your thoughts guys? Go and buy a new one or simply leave it?

Only code is the glow plug one. Obviously I only have a primitive android scanner but I've tried a couple of Apps and they only throw up the glow plug code. One thing I forgot to mention is it's quite whizzy and chirpy, sounds like an old escort turbo with a k and n and a -31 actuator. Seems to hold the boost well though, just seems to starve itself over 3k. Odd.