mmafreak

Hey Alam, It is pretty straight forward if you follow xpower's guide. It took about an hour for each headlight, since I already got the OE projectors out the night before I started working on the bi xenons. Also, see the pictures I attached of the plastic frame holder to see how to trim it to accommodate the solenoid. I got a LHD projector myself as it was cheap and tbh I messed up trying to make a custom cutoff. Try to get on HID Planet and see if some of the JDM guys can send over any spare RHD cutoffs they might have. That is what I did. First you dremel off the rivets on the side of the projector and take it apart. Then you have to dremel the LHD cutoff and fit in the new RHD cutoff in the same place using the same hole/mount. Mine says JAPAN on the cutoff shield. Then I used nuts and bolts to close it back and hold the bowl and lens together.

I bought my projectors back in December but just had the time to get the bi xenon setup sorted this weekend. I followed Xpower's guide with some slight modifications and they fit snugly. First, I cut two slots in the plastic trim outside just like Xpower did. Unscrew the 3 Torx screws holding the OE projector and just wiggled it out using the cuts in the plastic to work as a flap. I didn't need to make any cuts in the OE projector. This next stage is where I needed some help and had one of my old Skoda technicians help out (he works at Jaguar now). Thanks to his knowledge we were able to trim the plastic frame inside for the solenoid to fit perfectly and wire the pigtails to the high beam from inside the headlamp housing itself. If you tug at the H1 wires, they flow through the main housing to the 36 pin power connector, so we just looped them there instead of drilling a hole in the high beam socket to lay the solenoid pigtail through. We had to dremel the bi xenon slightly around the edges in order to wiggle it inside the headlamp housing. The mounting points were the exact same as OE, so there was no need to further align the projectors. Also, I was able to fit the ballast and wires inside, just like how I had it setup with the H7 HID kit. I know a few members including Xpower who frown upon using CANBUS kits, but this is what I had with me and decided to continue using it. It was already taped to the low beam OE harness from last time and there were no changes to be made. No coding. Just plug and play. I was too enthusiastic with the plastic and the piece where I made cuts, snapped right off. I sealed it with JB quick weld epoxy I got from TRS. Drys within 6 minutes and cures within 4 hours. I took the lights out and let them cure inside the house overnight. That is the goo is that you are looking at on top of the headlight housing. So my only gripe with this is that I bought used LHD projectors and one of the lens was damaged when I got it. So I had to go out and get another single clear lens. In retrospect, I should have changed both lenses. The left beam is slightly yellow-er than the right, which is sharp. It could be that the left projector is off or that particular lens- this is what we have to settle for when buying used products I guess. But High beam looks great. I'm loving the tunnel vision typical to the E55. I switched back to 4300K as I was previously using a 5K kit and it hampered driving in the rain. I'm sure it a combination of the throw of the halogen projector and the color shifting of the 5k bulb from white to blue, that reduced the lumen output. At the moment I am concerned with the most light output, so 4300 was the choice.

Got my E55s! Xpower, Sorry to keep bugging you mate, but I need some help modifying the cutoff to RHD. Instead of removing the whole piece and replacing it with a custom piece, I want to shave off the cutoff to make it flat. What do you think?

It wasnt working, so I decided to get a pair of E55 off ebay. Xpower, What 55W kit D2S kit did you get?

I am able to get my hands on a MK2 Superb BiXenon unit without the AFS. The backing plate looks similar to OE, so not too much modification should be needed. Let me check it out and update the thread. Sorry for the thumbnail pictures, but the editor wasn't allowing me to upload larger pictures in the body of the post.

Anyone?

I will use an older AMP ballast with an AMP>D2S adapter. Did you use the straight one or the 90 degree adapter? I am planning to either make or add splitters for the high beam for both solenoid and flasher function. My BCM setting were erased after I got a new one so I'm not coded for xenons. When I code, will I have to check, "Bi xenon with additional beam" or "xenon with shutter" or simply code for how I would an aftermarket HID kit (without shutters)

You're damn lucky, bruv. Do you still have the lights? If so, pics please!

That link helped. Thanks! After comparing your ^ pics side-by-side, Im more comfortable with areas to trim around the holder. I will go with the D2S setup like you suggested. All I need is an D2S-AMP adapter to use the stock H7 connector to power up? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/d2s-amp-reverse-ballasts-adapters-48687.html#.VCT3sZSSxoh Do I need an adapter for the H1 high beam as well or can the bi xenon harness be plugged directly into it? Can I reuse an older 35W ballast, or should I get new D2S bulbs and ballasts?

Trim the inner frame of the plastic headlamp housing or the metal holder on the projector? Doesnt the D2S bulb have a built-in ignitor at the base of the bulb. It sure it worth it. I would rather have bi xenon over AFS. What do you mean by plug and play -The whole projector and bulb combo? I think they would fit from Superb 2..had a look online last night, and, boy are they pricey :$$$:

Do I need to specify I have a RHD before ordering? Did you screw them into the plastic housing underneath? How did you get the wires through the rubber cap covering the low beam housing? And I dont know if I am as good with my hands as you are, to attempt custom fitting the larger bowls. Also, what about the shroud, cutoff shield, lens etc when retrofitting onto OE bowl? Any workarounds or is it a simple swap. Wiring for the High beam? Does it act as a passing flasher and also come on with high beam? If it is coding, its not a problem as I have access to VCDS. Sorry for all the questions, but I just want to make sure I make an informed decision before going about the retrofit.

xpower, Bumping this thread. Props for attempting such an extensive retrofit. I am using a standard H7 5k 35w HID kit which is snugly fit inside of the headlamp housing. I want to try and attempt a bi xenon retrofit just as the standard high beam is not cutting it out for me. 1. Are the pictures of the projectors in the very first post the OEM ones? 2. Price and a link of the Hella bi xenons? 3. Bi Xenon model is D2S. IS the original backing plate of projectors all you need to fit a H7 bulb? 3. Will the H7 kit fit inside the headlamp housing?

I have used London Color 35w 4300k kit and had to remove it due to an unrelated BCM issue. Using 35w 5k Hylux canbus kit now (I know, I know..but it was the only kit i could get my hands on) since January without any problem. The 5K doesnt seem to work for me. While the color is spot on where I'd like it to be, it is not doing justice to visibility. I would like to go back to the 4300k kit, but the bulbs and ballasts are cut up and separated. Ive used the kit even after the BCM damage and it lights up without any errors. My question to you lighting experts- Can I splice the NON-Canbus 4300k BULBS onto the CANBUS ballasts and use it?

Hi Eddie, I tried to get the maxidot at the dealers and the adaptation failed when they were using VAS. I asked them to follow the same procedure they would for replacing an instrument cluster and it turns out the online server was matching it against the VIN no, which wasnt registered to have a maxidot. Hence the adaptation fail. Surprisingly, they couldnt get the code from the old cluster either. They dont even know how to get that 4 digit code. There is an outside tuner who said he could get it to work but he had to change a chip ? or something to bypass the encryption. He also said that the newer clusters for the FL dont use the 4 digit "secret" key anymore. Can you confirm? Is there any other way for me to get this to work?

Chester, Any update on the second fault? Were you able to check the coding?