mmafreak

Hey Alam, It is pretty straight forward if you follow xpower's guide. It took about an hour for each headlight, since I already got the OE projectors out the night before I started working on the bi xenons. Also, see the pictures I attached of the plastic frame holder to see how to trim it to accommodate the solenoid. I got a LHD projector myself as it was cheap and tbh I messed up trying to make a custom cutoff. Try to get on HID Planet and see if some of the JDM guys can send over any spare RHD cutoffs they might have. That is what I did. First you dremel off the rivets on the side of the projector and take it apart. Then you have to dremel the LHD cutoff and fit in the new RHD cutoff in the same place using the same hole/mount. Mine says JAPAN on the cutoff shield. Then I used nuts and bolts to close it back and hold the bowl and lens together.

I bought my projectors back in December but just had the time to get the bi xenon setup sorted this weekend. I followed Xpower's guide with some slight modifications and they fit snugly. First, I cut two slots in the plastic trim outside just like Xpower did. Unscrew the 3 Torx screws holding the OE projector and just wiggled it out using the cuts in the plastic to work as a flap. I didn't need to make any cuts in the OE projector. This next stage is where I needed some help and had one of my old Skoda technicians help out (he works at Jaguar now). Thanks to his knowledge we were able to trim the plastic frame inside for the solenoid to fit perfectly and wire the pigtails to the high beam from inside the headlamp housing itself. If you tug at the H1 wires, they flow through the main housing to the 36 pin power connector, so we just looped them there instead of drilling a hole in the high beam socket to lay the solenoid pigtail through. We had to dremel the bi xenon slightly around the edges in order to wiggle it inside the headlamp housing. The mounting points were the exact same as OE, so there was no need to further align the projectors. Also, I was able to fit the ballast and wires inside, just like how I had it setup with the H7 HID kit. I know a few members including Xpower who frown upon using CANBUS kits, but this is what I had with me and decided to continue using it. It was already taped to the low beam OE harness from last time and there were no changes to be made. No coding. Just plug and play. I was too enthusiastic with the plastic and the piece where I made cuts, snapped right off. I sealed it with JB quick weld epoxy I got from TRS. Drys within 6 minutes and cures within 4 hours. I took the lights out and let them cure inside the house overnight. That is the goo is that you are looking at on top of the headlight housing. So my only gripe with this is that I bought used LHD projectors and one of the lens was damaged when I got it. So I had to go out and get another single clear lens. In retrospect, I should have changed both lenses. The left beam is slightly yellow-er than the right, which is sharp. It could be that the left projector is off or that particular lens- this is what we have to settle for when buying used products I guess. But High beam looks great. I'm loving the tunnel vision typical to the E55. I switched back to 4300K as I was previously using a 5K kit and it hampered driving in the rain. I'm sure it a combination of the throw of the halogen projector and the color shifting of the 5k bulb from white to blue, that reduced the lumen output. At the moment I am concerned with the most light output, so 4300 was the choice.

Got my E55s! Xpower, Sorry to keep bugging you mate, but I need some help modifying the cutoff to RHD. Instead of removing the whole piece and replacing it with a custom piece, I want to shave off the cutoff to make it flat. What do you think?

It wasnt working, so I decided to get a pair of E55 off ebay. Xpower, What 55W kit D2S kit did you get?

I am able to get my hands on a MK2 Superb BiXenon unit without the AFS. The backing plate looks similar to OE, so not too much modification should be needed. Let me check it out and update the thread. Sorry for the thumbnail pictures, but the editor wasn't allowing me to upload larger pictures in the body of the post.

Anyone?

I will use an older AMP ballast with an AMP>D2S adapter. Did you use the straight one or the 90 degree adapter? I am planning to either make or add splitters for the high beam for both solenoid and flasher function. My BCM setting were erased after I got a new one so I'm not coded for xenons. When I code, will I have to check, "Bi xenon with additional beam" or "xenon with shutter" or simply code for how I would an aftermarket HID kit (without shutters)

You're damn lucky, bruv. Do you still have the lights? If so, pics please!

That link helped. Thanks! After comparing your ^ pics side-by-side, Im more comfortable with areas to trim around the holder. I will go with the D2S setup like you suggested. All I need is an D2S-AMP adapter to use the stock H7 connector to power up? http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/d2s-amp-reverse-ballasts-adapters-48687.html#.VCT3sZSSxoh Do I need an adapter for the H1 high beam as well or can the bi xenon harness be plugged directly into it? Can I reuse an older 35W ballast, or should I get new D2S bulbs and ballasts?

Trim the inner frame of the plastic headlamp housing or the metal holder on the projector? Doesnt the D2S bulb have a built-in ignitor at the base of the bulb. It sure it worth it. I would rather have bi xenon over AFS. What do you mean by plug and play -The whole projector and bulb combo? I think they would fit from Superb 2..had a look online last night, and, boy are they pricey :$$$:

Do I need to specify I have a RHD before ordering? Did you screw them into the plastic housing underneath? How did you get the wires through the rubber cap covering the low beam housing? And I dont know if I am as good with my hands as you are, to attempt custom fitting the larger bowls. Also, what about the shroud, cutoff shield, lens etc when retrofitting onto OE bowl? Any workarounds or is it a simple swap. Wiring for the High beam? Does it act as a passing flasher and also come on with high beam? If it is coding, its not a problem as I have access to VCDS. Sorry for all the questions, but I just want to make sure I make an informed decision before going about the retrofit.

xpower, Bumping this thread. Props for attempting such an extensive retrofit. I am using a standard H7 5k 35w HID kit which is snugly fit inside of the headlamp housing. I want to try and attempt a bi xenon retrofit just as the standard high beam is not cutting it out for me. 1. Are the pictures of the projectors in the very first post the OEM ones? 2. Price and a link of the Hella bi xenons? 3. Bi Xenon model is D2S. IS the original backing plate of projectors all you need to fit a H7 bulb? 3. Will the H7 kit fit inside the headlamp housing?

I have used London Color 35w 4300k kit and had to remove it due to an unrelated BCM issue. Using 35w 5k Hylux canbus kit now (I know, I know..but it was the only kit i could get my hands on) since January without any problem. The 5K doesnt seem to work for me. While the color is spot on where I'd like it to be, it is not doing justice to visibility. I would like to go back to the 4300k kit, but the bulbs and ballasts are cut up and separated. Ive used the kit even after the BCM damage and it lights up without any errors. My question to you lighting experts- Can I splice the NON-Canbus 4300k BULBS onto the CANBUS ballasts and use it?

Hi Eddie, I tried to get the maxidot at the dealers and the adaptation failed when they were using VAS. I asked them to follow the same procedure they would for replacing an instrument cluster and it turns out the online server was matching it against the VIN no, which wasnt registered to have a maxidot. Hence the adaptation fail. Surprisingly, they couldnt get the code from the old cluster either. They dont even know how to get that 4 digit code. There is an outside tuner who said he could get it to work but he had to change a chip ? or something to bypass the encryption. He also said that the newer clusters for the FL dont use the 4 digit "secret" key anymore. Can you confirm? Is there any other way for me to get this to work?

Chester, Any update on the second fault? Were you able to check the coding?

Hi Eddie, I received my RS maxidot today. Going to get the swap done at the dealers soon. Is there any VCDS coding to do after they are done? I just got a new BCM and had to re code all my settings again. Will I have to do that again for them to show up on the maxidot?

Hello gents, I got a new BCM replaced under warranty. All back to normal now. Thanks for your help.

I saw Paddypaws post in the other HID thread, and he has a VRS, like you. Not sure if the byte 14 is applicable to my CAN as it is just an Elegance. I coded and got it working without any errors before. Do you think I can use the same HID kit I removed or should I buy another one? The dealers have put in a new order for the BCM.

xpower, Do you know what caused the problem for you? My Skoda tech believes it was a faulty ballast/igniter that may have shorted the BCM (I have a non-canbus kit from London color). I on the other hand believe it is from water getting in the headlight housing (there was a ton of condensation inside, it took 3 days to evaporate) Reading another thread, member Alberg, mentioned his mates had the same r/h indicator solid light problem from using non-canbus kits. But there are many others who have used the london color kits without BCM problems.. :S Slightly off topic, but I want to install the HID kit again after getting the BCM replaced. How would I know if it was the ballast that shorted the module?

The roads were flooded recently with water level covering the brake rotors. I spoke to the dealers and the manager agreed it could boil down to wiring or BCM. They have a machine tied to their online system that will scan and point out exactly which wire and pin is faulty. The server pushes the wiring diagram of that specific car to the computer at the dealers by matching the VIN number against the database in Germany. Pretty cool if you ask me. Beats following every wire and troubleshoot by hand. Going to take the car in on Tuesday. Will let you guys know what happens.

Hi , I am planning to buy a maxidot in km/h from Skodateile for my Elegance diesel but he is out of them for my car. He instead suggested http://skodateile.cz/index.php?pg=product∏=395&menu=%C5%A0koda%7COctavia%20II%28A5%29%20facelift%7CPanely%20p%C5%99%C3%ADstroj%C5%AF It is a RS Diesel instrument cluster (0-270 km/h) as opposed to 0-240 km/h cluster I need. Will the increment in total notches have an effect in correct speed being displayed? I see OP had different increments in his cluster but the top speed stayed that same i.e 160mph

Hi I have the same exact 012 error code and description although not caused by the same combination of lights. My right indicator stays on permanently even when the car is off. I had installed a HID kit from London color and the roads happened to be flooded. I suspect water got into the headlamp housing as I saw condensation. That was when the right side turn indicator remained a solid color and refused to blink. I am back to running stock halogens and have removed the right side indicator bulb for now (driving around with the on dash light on). Tried unchecking 'xenons with shutters' but it made no difference. When I scanned with VCDS , I had almost 20 errors across different modules. Saved log, cleared errors and the second time around the Central Electronics 09 threw up an error. It is the same, "01497 - Bulb for Blinkers; Front Right (M7) 012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent" Looked up error code in Ross Tech Wikis and they had 3 possible causes- faulty bulb, fuse or wiring. I checked the bulb and fuse the day of. So that leaves me with wiring. Am I right in assuming it is the BCM that needs replacement? Or, can it be repaired? Full log attached. Log-BULB-TMBBEG1Z2CA152683-18237.txt

As part of your diagnosis, please check the voltage of your battery using a voltmeter, even though it is new. It should be between 12.4- 13.6 V. Do you have access to a VCDS? It is very useful in pointing out the exact nature of the bulb error.

I have seen pictures of this breather vent on the forum, and I don't think we have it on the India spec. There also seems to be less space in the engine bay of our cars as I couldn't find anywhere on the sides to mount the HID kit onto. I had to attach the ballast to the outside of the headlamp housing with a small screw (before I knew it could be put inside). I then cut the grommet for the wires to come through and sealed it with superglue. I am positive this side didn't seal all too well, because I only see condensation in that headlamp alone. On an unfortunate note, the roads here were flooded on saturday leaving that same headlight misted up more than the last time. This caused the indicator bulb in the housing to stay on without blinking. The light stayed on even after I had the engine off. Looking around the forum I found out the problem is a damaged BCM due to the moisture. Slightly off topic, but going to put stock bulbs in and take the car in to get the BCM replaced under warranty. For the guys who haven't installed their kits yet, I would suggest you fit them inside. How I fit the kit. (The wires were tied up using clip ties, just hanging for now.) The right headlamp that had the solid indicator. I have removed the bulb for now so it doesn't short anything or start a fire if it blows.

Nick, I bought 30W Cree LEDs from Car Mod Shop http://www.car-mod-shop.co.uk/382cree-30-30w-ba15s-1156-382-cree-12v24v-high-power-led-bulb-stop-tail-reverse-fog.html. They did throw an error after 5 minutes of turning the engine on. I reduced the power of the DRL using VCDS- it is set to 92% by default and I found that 70% brightness did away with the error on my car. Did you have to do anything with VCDS or just plug-n-play? Some pics-