simonmc
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Posts posted by simonmc
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"W" it's a speed rating (168 MPH)
Yes, my mistake: I meant to say 99 = 670kg, 94 = 775kg
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Hmmm - I just went and checked the load rating (I assume that is what is meant by weight rating above). The existing Skoda-supplied standard road tyres are W rated which I looked up as 670kg. The space saver is M rated which is 775kg, apparently, so it should be OK from that point of view.
Several places are selling that width of spare tyre as being for Yeti e.g. this and this. I did a search on www.skodaparts.com and it came up with what looks like exactly the same combo (though it does say Octavia VRS...)
As you say, a call to the insurance co may be in order.
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Recently I started considered whether I should have a spare wheel. I got my Yeti in Feb 2014 and decided against the spare wheel option, partly because of the space it takes up, partly because of the cost. Anyway, scroll forward 2 years and, although I haven't had to use the gunk kit, I was thinking that it could be a pain, especially in the dark on the motorway and obviously no use if the tyre has more than a simple hole in it. I still don't much like Skoda's prices and I also still don't fancy losing the space taken up by a full sized wheel, so I compromised and found an 18" Golf Mk5 space saver wheel and tyre, with toolkit (because I need the jack now!) for £60 delivered on ebay. It is a 125/70/18 tyre which has almost exactly the same rolling diameter as the Scudo alloy wheel/tyre combo I have on
A few hours of tinkering later and for no additional cost (because I had the bits and pieces lying around) I now have a space saver wheel in my boot with raised floor. Summary:
- test fitted the wheel to make absolutely sure it is the right PCD
- cut the polystyrene toolkit holder down so it fits under the wheel instead of on top, since that's the least space-using way of fitting the wheel in the Yeti's boot
- made a fixing bolt from the big washer from an MX5 spare wheel bolt, a standard bolt and a piece of steel bar, threaded to take the bolt. I also cut the end off the handle from an old office chair, as it has a hexagonal inside suitable for easy turning of the bolt head and saves having to faff around with a spanner.
- made left and right supports/storage boxes from plywood and wood from some dismantled drawers.
- boxes have holes drilled to fit on the threaded studs on the boot floor. The right hand one is additionally held down with a steel tab using one of the OEM plastic box fixing bolts.
I left the small net on the left attached to the bottom loops but the one across the backs of the seats I attached to the seats themselves, otherwise it would be a pain to remove.
I was going to put some plywood on top but since I have the optional double sided boot mat, I decided just to refit the carpet and put the boot on top. If it turns out not to be solid enough, I will put some plywood on top. I had to unclip the original boot carpet at the front edge, but it still just about tucks under the plastic trim OK.
I've left the compressor and gunk in there for the time being...
At some point, I may put some carpeting inside the boxes to stop stuff making a noise when rattling around.
The next result is that the new floor is only <=9cm higher than the old one
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- test fitted the wheel to make absolutely sure it is the right PCD
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I would be interested in this especially if you can change the large display from mph to kph, but does this change lose any of the existing MFD items or is it just an additional alternative?
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OP: You've been had, mate. There's no problem repairing a tyre which has been gunked as long as the damage is repairable as for a non-gunked tyre. My wife's MX5 has the same system, used for a puncture a few weeks ago. The local tyre place fixed it no problem, just washed it out first. Mazda want £40-50 for a refill so we got a £10 can of Tyre weld, which I've used successfully on another car.
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Why not? It was a facelift; not a re-engineering. Basically it is still exactly the same car, with a few different plastic bits and a new bonnet and boot lid.
I meant "it was shown to work on a car that was presumably not an FL"... Anyway, DrPinball has kindly replied to my PM, so all good
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Presumably not an FL though, since it was 2013. I will ping DrPinball
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I picked up my 1.2 SE FL in February and decided to do without the reversing camera option as it seemed a bit expensive.
Anyway, although I find it's "OK" for reversing, especially with the warning sensors and the fact that it is basically vertical, it would be quite nice to have a reversing camera. I have found a couple of threads, including this one
http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/279218-reversing-camera-on-amundsen-plus/ but I posted a question on there and it seems to be dead.
So - has anyone successfully retrofitted a reversing camera to an FL with Amundsen+? I would be interested in knowing what parts you had to get (links woulf be great!) how you physically fitted it and what needs to be done to the computer to enable it.
Cheers,
Simon
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Reviving this topic. I was looking on ebay and found this - would that work/has anyone fitted it?
(1.2FL with Amundsen+, btw)
Cheers,
Simon
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[quote ... What I don't like is the stickers slapped onto rear screens. First job on getting home has been to remove these.
Colin
Ditto!
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Could be... I think that this time I did actually fill up at exactly the same pump as the last time. I'll have to check at other "servos"
(reminds me of the 5 months I spent in Australia - like the Brits and Yanks, I sometimes think Brits and Aussies are divided by a common language...) -
Today, not for the first time, I got blowback when filling up the tank (petrol 1.2SE FL). I put the nozzle in the filler hole as far as it will go then when it gets to the top the petrol just comes sloshing over the side, down the wheel arch and onto the wheel/tyre. Luckily the Sainsbury's filling station has paper towel reels so I can wipe it off, but this is the first car I have had with this problem (unless you keep on pressing the nozzle handle after it clicks).
Anone else had this problem and, if so, any tips for avoiding it?
Cheers,
Simon
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I had a good look today and with a small modification the middle seat now sits upright and in the same position as the outer seats, thus giving then same load space.
The modification is simple. If you look under the seat cushion you will see that each seat has 2 little legs that poke out. The are designed to support the seat moving further forward when in a vertical position. The outer seats legs are metal with a plastic cap whereas the middle seat the legs have the same leg with plastic cap but they have an additional small rubber covering. They come off easily and allows the middle seat to sit in line with the outer seats. Not sure why it it is just the middle seat to have the rubber covering.
Anyway issue not solved.
I tied this today and it works just fine - thanks for the tip. I didn't fancy the idea of having to unlock and lift the seat of its mount; much better to have it fold forward on the rail like the others, as you would expect!
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I found that, as is illustrated in pic B above, the centre seat does not fold as far forward as the outer two, however much you press it in.
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On my FL 1.2 SE the rear wiper wipes on intermittent when the front wipers are on - I think there is an option in the menus somewhere. On single speed it seems to flick the rear about every 23 front wipes; on double speed every 14 front wipes or so. I don't find it annoying, it doesn't go dry and means I don't have to keep flicking the rear wiper.
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Surely the first registration fee applies to the first registration of the car regardless of what actual number is assigned?
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I agree with the comments about changing colour
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I ordered in November, took delivery in February: "indoor" SE. At the time, I had looked on the Skoda website so I knew the published differences and 2WD vs 4WD, but the salesman told me "The Outdoor is 4WD only"... what he should have said is "4WD is only available in Outdoor trim" since, as you found, you can get 2WD in both normal and Outdoor.+
Personally, I'm fine with the non-Outdoor trim but, like you, I would have thought side protection mouldings should have been standard.
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I've had my 1.2 TSI manual for a month and I've found the performance is perfectly OK. Round town and everywhere else except motorways, no problem, and even on motorways it's fine, just starts to feel a bit blunt at 70+
Mind you, I have also got a Mazda MX5 Mk1 BBR Turbo for when I want a more sporting drive
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The aux in is then either moved to the glove box or on the front of the radio in the case of the Amundsen
Yes, there is one on the radio with the A+
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Just letting folk know that if you opt for MDI (like I did) you don't get the aux in connection under the front armrest.
I don't have MDI (but do have Amundsen+) and don't have an aux in under the armrest... unless I can't see it! Where exactly is it supposed to be?
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Get brownie points by admitting she was right about considering the 170 in the first place, then go and do it!
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I went for the Amunsden+ and didn't want to pay the extra for the MDI. Instead, I paid less than £15 for a 32GB SD card. It works with no cables, controlled from the wheel or the screen, and you don't have to take it out when you leave the car.
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Re. the CSMA warranty (£144 PA), I've said the very same thing several times over - and not that long ago.
As you said it's been done to death in several long, comprehensive and informative posts very recently.
They must appear if you search for it.
CSMA membership is limited to those with a pulse and a driving licence - although if one or other is absent the problem can usually be circumvented by a kind word in a sympathetic ear. In practice it costs nothing annually as you get Insurance Legal Protection thrown in for nothing. I've said all this before - Heaven forbid I should repeat myself. Heaven forbid I should repeat myself.
... I've got both of those, but neither me, nor the missus nor anyone in my family works or has ever worked for any qualifying organisation...
(reminds me of the 5 months I spent in Australia - like the Brits and Yanks, I sometimes think Brits and Aussies are divided by a common language...)
Space saver in 2WD FL boot
in Skoda Yeti
Posted
I'll get there in the end! Standard tyre has 94 = 670kg, space saver has 99 = 775kg i.e. higher load rating.