daoctabod

Just to put this one to bed, was a split in one of the boost pipes. All sorted and all running A1 now 🙂

Hi, didn't consider the pipework for the intercooler, will check all that as well. The engine is a 2.0 TFSI CCZA, I've added a picture for reference. I've also checked what I can see of the intercooler and there are no obvious signs of holes. It looks from the diagrams there is a fair bit of pipework to check...

Hi, didn't consider the pipework for the intercooler, will check all that as well. The engine is a 2.0 TFSI CCZA, I've added a picture for reference. I've also checked what I can see of the intercooler and there are no obvious signs of holes. It looks from the diagrams there is a fair bit of pipework to check...

Everything looks good, no leaks that I can see, when I say very basic I've checked all hose's I can see from bay and all levels and everything is good. As I said, when I try to put the pedal down its like there is an air leak between turbo and manifold. I've done a simple trace of pipes and all connections good from the bay but some advice on where the turbo pipes and connections go would be appreciated. I'm a dab hand with hose clips 🙂

So think I got this sorted, manage to get the rebuilder to take a look and they agreed to help fix for zero labour. They claim the original installer didn't install an oil valve correctly and this prevented correct oil pressure which then broke the inlet and exhaust cam. They replaced for £780 parts and all the issues have gone, was starting and running lovely for 300 miles. Today I think a hose has popped off the Turbo as I've lost all the top end power and its hissing like a bus when I try to accelerate. I put a full post on the engine failures thread explaining the full story. In short do your research and get a reputable company to do the rebuild as one job, not 2 garages who blame each other.

I've had a bit of a bad year, I/ the Beast from the East suffered a full engine failure and ended up with a dodgy rebuild that I thought I had finally sorted. I was driving to Lincoln today and all was looking good, oil and coolant were great, car was polished, hoovered and I had the aircon re-gassed so it was blowing sub zero, today would be a good day I thought, WRONG. As I pulled onto the A1 I thought let open the taps and feel the wind. I put my foot down, things seemed to stutter like a miss-fire and then I got a feeling like floating in zero-G when the misses should have been pinned back in her seat. I said something doesn't feel right but she just assumed I was taking it steady. I then wound the window down to listen for the whistle and blow off and all I got was a laboured acceleration and loud bus like turbo hiss, literally like the turbo was blowing out through a straw and not into the manifold. I backed off and drove steady to the destination and then very steady all the way home later. Every time the turbo tried to work I would get a loud hiss like a bus but very little power, I then got the dreaded Engine light, OBD states its an air flow performance issue which adds up. I've had a very basic look at the bay but can't see anything broken or disconnected, the pipes at the front to the manifold look ok, the pipe at the back for the air filter also look good. Any advice about other things I can check would be appreciated before I take it to another garage to be told I now need a replacement Turbo...

Just thought I would add my experience to this as a warning to others. I had a timing chain failure at approx. 70k which bent valve and bent cam etc... I had modified a fair bit up to stage 2 so there was no way Skoda would have help (I don't think). I was in a panic at the time and didn't know it was the timing chain that had gone so took it to one garage who just took 2 weeks to tell me they couldn't get any oil pressure and they couldn't help any further. I then took to a family recommended garage who spent a little time figuring out it was the timing chain and then gave up. They suggested I find a specialist to do the rebuild. I found a company in Kent that said if I could send the block they would refurb for £1800 and the website looked good, reviews were mixed but the good reviews were good. The garage took the block out and it was sent down to Kent. After a substantial extra amount for cylinders, camshaft and other bits it came back shiny and beautiful and the garage put it back in. I picked up the car and thought it sounded a little louder than before and had a louder than wanted tick on idle. The car drove fine so I just put it down to needing running in. 1000 miles in the the car starts chattering on cold start and the tick is still there, I take it back to the local garage. They say they think its oil pressure related and I need to get rebuilder to look. I get RAC to tow it down to Kent after a long argument that they only want to see the block and not the car. They take another £500 for replacement of sensors and gaskets they say should have been replaced when local garage re-installed and we start the blame game. Car is back but still having starting issues now where it sometime won't start for around 3-4 tries and still loud ticking. I give up at this point and decide to just put up with it. Eventually the comments from others about the noise, my own annoyance and the starting issues make me argue with the Kent company and they agree to look again. I take the car down and they blame the oil pressure issue on the local garage for not installing a valve correctly when they installed everything and the oil pressure has caused an issue in the head. They agree to look further and then advise the inlet and exhaust cam are toast due to oil pressure issue and agree for £750 to replace parts and go free on labour, I stupidly agree as I've just spent too much to this point to turn back. They claim to have done the work and the car no longer has the starting issues or ticking noise. I'm semi ok with things but I notice little issues like the oil is already a little dark, the filter looks dusty and today my turbo seems to stop working! It feels like I've been a mug and for others I would just say get your timing chain changed asap. If you do get the dreaded failure and go for the rebuild do your research and be prepared to pay the little more for a good result. If I was doing this all again I would have gone to the performance garage who quoted a fair bit more as I've ended up clocking up more now anyway.

Thought I would update on progress... I eventually managed to convince the engine rebuilders to have a look at the car, it went down on the back of an RAC wagon and spent a few days in Kent. They found the original mechanics that put it all back together had reused gaskets and not replaced any of the oil pressure sensors etc. This has all been sorted but I'm still getting chatter once the engine is warm and a slight uniform chatter on cold start, also the odd time when it will take 3-4 false starts to actually start. I'm wondering if the injectors could cause this? I've since taken to another VAG place and they ran a diagnostic but it comes back with only the minor light fault I have from some dodgy bulbs. The car itself is running great, smooth and plenty of power but just a very slight hesitation occasionally. Anybody know of anywhere in Sheffield or Chesterfield they would recommend? The VAG place I tried wouldn't even consider changing the injectors without a fault code as they said they usually either work or don't work at all.

Hi, thanks very much for the reply, just thought I would give an update... I've checked the oil filter and its got UFI and made in China written on top. The manufacture date is after my last service so that's a good sign, with regards to oil I'm not 100%, they are a trustworthy garage but when they handed me keys it was keys in one hand and can of Stella in the other, it was Friday afternoon 🙂, the receipt states 5w-30 long life. I had a coolant flange failure today and lost all my coolant, assuming the return spout was knocked and it cracked off. That's almost sorted but highlighted a new issue, the coolant tank is full of sludge and the new flange is at a different angle to original so pipe is not aligned. My plan is to take the car to a VAG specialist (Sheffield based recommendations welcome) have a full service with coolant flush and full oil/filter change, get the EVAP purge valve and charcoal tank swapped and see what they think after that.

Hi and thanks for reply, its 2011 and it CCZA. Its now done 350 miles and I still get the brief (less than a second) chatter on cold start but apart from that its running A1, no more oil burn on over run and it really is smooth as silk. The new clutch is still juddering in 1st but that's getting better, the idle noise is loud and it sounds like my old Mk2 Fiesta.

Hoping for some advice. I've recently had my 2.0 TFSI engine rebuild after a timing chain failure, I've had a stage 2 and various mods done so didn't pursue the Skoda compensation route. I had many issues getting this sorted because the first garage sat on the issue for 3 weeks before fobbing it off and then the second garage almost gave up when they saw the damage that had been done. I managed to get them to remove the block and send to a specialist for rebuild that included a long list of extras costing me an arm and a leg! Eventually I got everything back together but I still have a rattle on cold start. Its very consistent, literally less than an second of rattle then a slight after rattle while I pull away. I've also noticed it does sound a lot noisier on idle than before rebuild but I'm only 150 miles into the 600 mile burn in so assume it will take a while for everything to settle down. The thing I'm worried about is that everything points towards this sound being a faulty tensioner and I thought this should have been replaced during the rebuild? As part of the rebuild I also had a new DMF and RKS twin friction clutch fitted and I also have an age old EVAP purge valve issue... This car is now a part of my soul so any advice is appreciated. Rattle.m4a