BlueVRSTom

Probably not. It would have been better to use this stuff as a preventive measure before your EGR got clogged. However you can always give it ago and if it don't work it might making cleaning the EGR easier anyway.

For the OP. My car is a 07 vRS. SHARK Stage 1. DPF delete, and a straight through turbo back system ( no back box, no mid section ) I get both a fairly high pitched siren/whistling noise from the turbo as well as the perfectly NORMAL owl noise! I love my owl noise and I too purposely induce it. For me I found if I boot it ( foot to the floor ) at low speeds in second gear and ease off/change gear at the same time between 2 and 2.5k I get a lovely whoosh/owl noise. Car has been like that for 2 years ( since the gut ) including 40k miles and no problems. Enjoy your car, it's how the older style diesels work ( PD )

Gut and map out! Use Shark

This happened to me for a period of over 6months, exact same symptoms as you describe but no fault codes. One day my car started cutting out after like 10mins and would struggle to fire up - got a read out and it came back as crank position sensor ( CKP ). Had that replaced and not one single problem since. I would highly recommend changing that sensor. Best of luck.

Remap as above & only go to Shark. The absolute best in the business. You could also look at a rear ARB they improve handling drastically.

Octy vRS tdi 07 - turbo no longer gives that ' kick ' at around 2k. Instead it sounds like it's sucking air and the turbo kicks in at 3k instead. What's gone wrong? How do I sort it thanks.

Okay...it'd be interesting to see why that is but if that's what they said I'd be inclined to trust them. However I'm deffo right about it altering when lowering a vehicle as from my own past experience. Well I'm glad it was out as that should hopefully have been the problem. I hope all is sorted now and apologies for my potential incorrect statement about the spacers.

The stock cooling system is more than efficient! Especially if your only on stage 1. I'd change it for a stage 2 or higher for cooler running temps so I can run a higher boost but as previously stated not needed on a stage 1.

The stock cooling system is more than efficient! Especially if your only on stage 1. I'd change it for a stage 2 or higher for cooler running temps so I can run a higher boost but as previously stated not needed on a stage 1.

I would highly recoomend having a 4 wheel laser tracking done. When ever you bring your wheels further out (spacers) or lower a car you massively increase negative camber ( inside tyre wear ) so yeah I'd start with that!

You ideally need to get a scan done mate. Even a cheap fault reader should point you in tje right direction. It could be literally anything, hope it's cheap.

I've always been told that if it's hard to start when warm/hot then it's the cars temperature sensor. Fairly cheap sensor and normally about a 10min job to replace. This is the temperature sensor and NOT the thermostat so we're clear lol

I'll get the temp sensor checked on VCDS then it's just weird how once the engine is started it reads normal. Hmm Dave364 I wish we knew what was causing it. I would go dealers but with no fault codes present my car could be in there for many hours with no actual idea what's wrong and it's even worse that I cant even make the problem occur as its random.

My fans work yes. VCDS shows no faults. Yes cambelt and waterpump ( inc tensioners, pulleys Etc ) changed at 114,000. Car now on 135,000. Coolant is on max mark when cold and higher when warm.

Bump

Another unsimple post from myself about my Octy vRS 07 tdi ( PD170 ) My car sometimes cuts out when driving slow, for eg when slowing down for a roundabout. I won't even feel it, the engine has just turned it self off. No lights on the dash other than the red battery light. I fire the car back up and it starts fine and drives normal again. It has been suggested to me to bleed the clutch as it could be causing drag but the car has now done the same ' engine off/dying ' at speed, say 60mph. The revs and speed just start reducing and the engine is off. I can't accelerate but I can still brake and steer so now I don't think it is just clutch dragging and actually something more sincester. I'm not sure if this is related but twice now when I've turned my ignition on the temp gauge has gone straight to 120c and sat there with the red coolant light flashing - I start the car and the temp gauge goes back to normal. First occasion - it was a hot day and I had only left the car an hour before driving again and the temp gauge read 90c Second - it was a cold day and the car hadn't been driven for a good 8hrs and temp guage read 0c Thanks for any ideas!

Guys what the hell is causing the engine to cut out? What can be done to solve it? No point going to a garage because their are no fault codes.

Out of curiousity would you feel okay sending me a copy of the email? Obviously take out any private info ( name, reg etc )

07 Octy vRS. I got into my car today and as I turned the ignition I was immediately met with the flashing red coolant light and the temp gauge reading max ( 120 I think ) I popped the bonnet to check coolant which was fine. So I got back in the car started the engine regardless and the temp then moved back to normal/90c Is this at all normal or have I got the early signs of a faulty sensor? Thanks

Yes. In the dealership booklet it's known as candy white.

2000 miles since the work has been carried and all is/has gone well...however Yet another problem which I hope is an easy fix, very occasionally when I slow down and select 2nd gear let's say I then go to accelerate ( maybe approaching a roundabout ) and the engine has cut out. No judder, no noise, no dash board lights. I then press the clutch back in and start the engine again and it fires into life and continues like nothing has happened. This has occurred twice now. Could this down to injection timing or something related to the work that has been carried out. Thanks guys. I hope it's cheap :/

Used I/S for sale. Came off a 07 Octy vRS. This is a standard indicator stalk and not a cruise control one. Thanks

I love results like the above! ^ I guarantee the dealer would have charged £69.99 labour & probably £20 for the part. Good on you for DIY.

I had CC fitted yesterday and all worked perfect all yesterday and today. Tonight for some reason it has stopped working, no light on the dash board or anything. Is this simply a fuse that has blown? If so which one is it? Thanks.

I don't think there is anything wrong with my alarm siren though I'm not sure. I just don't think its that loud and if it were to go off in the middle of the night I doubt I'd wake up too it. Might look at aftermarket alarm sirens.