BlueVRSTom

Probably not. It would have been better to use this stuff as a preventive measure before your EGR got clogged. However you can always give it ago and if it don't work it might making cleaning the EGR easier anyway.

For the OP. My car is a 07 vRS. SHARK Stage 1. DPF delete, and a straight through turbo back system ( no back box, no mid section ) I get both a fairly high pitched siren/whistling noise from the turbo as well as the perfectly NORMAL owl noise! I love my owl noise and I too purposely induce it. For me I found if I boot it ( foot to the floor ) at low speeds in second gear and ease off/change gear at the same time between 2 and 2.5k I get a lovely whoosh/owl noise. Car has been like that for 2 years ( since the gut ) including 40k miles and no problems. Enjoy your car, it's how the older style diesels work ( PD )

Gut and map out! Use Shark

This happened to me for a period of over 6months, exact same symptoms as you describe but no fault codes. One day my car started cutting out after like 10mins and would struggle to fire up - got a read out and it came back as crank position sensor ( CKP ). Had that replaced and not one single problem since. I would highly recommend changing that sensor. Best of luck.

Remap as above & only go to Shark. The absolute best in the business. You could also look at a rear ARB they improve handling drastically.

Octy vRS tdi 07 - turbo no longer gives that ' kick ' at around 2k. Instead it sounds like it's sucking air and the turbo kicks in at 3k instead. What's gone wrong? How do I sort it thanks.

Okay...it'd be interesting to see why that is but if that's what they said I'd be inclined to trust them. However I'm deffo right about it altering when lowering a vehicle as from my own past experience. Well I'm glad it was out as that should hopefully have been the problem. I hope all is sorted now and apologies for my potential incorrect statement about the spacers.

The stock cooling system is more than efficient! Especially if your only on stage 1. I'd change it for a stage 2 or higher for cooler running temps so I can run a higher boost but as previously stated not needed on a stage 1.

The stock cooling system is more than efficient! Especially if your only on stage 1. I'd change it for a stage 2 or higher for cooler running temps so I can run a higher boost but as previously stated not needed on a stage 1.

I would highly recoomend having a 4 wheel laser tracking done. When ever you bring your wheels further out (spacers) or lower a car you massively increase negative camber ( inside tyre wear ) so yeah I'd start with that!

You ideally need to get a scan done mate. Even a cheap fault reader should point you in tje right direction. It could be literally anything, hope it's cheap.

I've always been told that if it's hard to start when warm/hot then it's the cars temperature sensor. Fairly cheap sensor and normally about a 10min job to replace. This is the temperature sensor and NOT the thermostat so we're clear lol

I'll get the temp sensor checked on VCDS then it's just weird how once the engine is started it reads normal. Hmm Dave364 I wish we knew what was causing it. I would go dealers but with no fault codes present my car could be in there for many hours with no actual idea what's wrong and it's even worse that I cant even make the problem occur as its random.

My fans work yes. VCDS shows no faults. Yes cambelt and waterpump ( inc tensioners, pulleys Etc ) changed at 114,000. Car now on 135,000. Coolant is on max mark when cold and higher when warm.

Bump