richm
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Posts posted by richm
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I have used Revive on a number of vehicles, for example various VAG group models (A6, Golf, Beetle, Octavia), Ford Mondeos of various models, Mercedes A-class, Vauxhall Astras to name the ones that come to mind. The cars have had a variety of issues from vague driveablity problems, with hesitations and slugish performance, through to hard faults due to sticking turbo vanes causing overboost and limp mode as soon as appreciable load is applied. In every case the owners have reported at minimum, significant improvement and in most cases a transformation of driveability and power back to how it should be, and often reduction of exhaust smoke and fuel economy improvements.
To briefly explain how the material works - it is a water-based (and pH neutral) non-toxic material with a "surfactant" active ingredient. This works by the molecules attaching themselves to oily/carbon deposits in the air path (ie turbo compressor, intercooler, valves, possible EGR and exhaust turbine components) and then releasing them as tiny particles into the airstream, thereby stripping the deposits in thin layers deliberatley avoiding large chunks of material being dislodged and causing subsequent damage or blockage.
The product was developed originally for cleaning turbines in jet engines and power station turbine generators, plus adapting for large marine turbo diesel engines. There is no solvent as such in the material, it's pH neutral and will not adversely affect any materials it comes in contact with in the engine. Neither will it harm cataysts or particulate filters either by direct contact or blockage.
Mr Muscle - Be fully aware of the effect this and similar caustic cleaning agents has on various components and materials. This type of cleaner is VERY alkaline and whilst there is no doubt regarding it's cleaning abilities, there are potential issues that need consideration. Alkali metal compounds (ie sodium hydroxide in this case) can cause alkali metal erosion of components including turbine wheel - due in part to it's history with jet and generator turbines, this is one reason why Revive is pH neutral. Any aluminium components will be severely affected by alkaline cleaners (try some on your wheels
) . Also consider the effect on the plating materials on catalysts and particulate filters if fitted.. -
Hi John,
You have PM
Regards
Rich
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Its only the 4x4 Octavia's which have the same balljoint pin as the TT/S3/R32.
I believe this is the same for 'non-performance' Bora/Golf 4Motion's (e.g. 2.8 V6's, 1.9TDI, etc)
ah i see! I've been missing the point about 4x4 hubs specifically
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The balljoint to hub pin's are the same shape and dimension, that's the only similarity
Is this ALWAYS the case? The TT balljoints I've compared with my standard vRS joints for example have had considerably larger diameter tapered pins, but to be fair I've not tried to actually fit either in the opposing uprights..
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A few points to clarify that aren't obvious until you come to fit everything together and get it working..
The advantageous angle of the bottom arms with lowered cars is due to the hubs not the arms - the TT hubs mount the bottom ball joint much lower than standard hubs (look at the large gap between the driveshaft boot and ball joint mount on the pictures above, compared to standard hub)
TT/LCR hubs have to be used with the cast arms as the ball joints are different and have bigger pins that won't fit a standard hub
Not all 4wd TT's have bolts retaining the driveshafts - I have seen early 225 Quattro's with nuts on the driveshafts.
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I think that the genuine filters are MANN anyway. The replacement air filter I put in my Octy had all of the same numbers in the same font as the genuine one that I took out, just no VW logos.
Correct
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Has air been let into the top of the system at any stage in the proceedings?
Does Fabia have bleed nipples on the master cylinder like Golf/Octavia etc?
If so, my bet is that's where the air is, easily overlooked.
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Fireworks are great, love them
I'm too tight to get them myself though -
Just done mine today, I should have done it long ago! Very easy to do once you get into it, and frankly for the initially "expensive" sounding price of the base foam, worth every penny. The whole seat feels like new again.
Only tip I would add to the excellent write-ups already done - get someone to help by squashing the foam down when you clip the edge bead back into the bottom of the seat frame, it makes it soo much easier and it just pops in with a bit of finger pressure all the way round.
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Trusty old chestnut this one lol
There's just a few key things to consider, no black magic..
1, There is NO practical calorific value difference between 95/97/98/99 RON fuels
2, Higher RON fuels have progressively higher knock resistance, ie. the air/fuel mixture tolerates more temperature and/or pressure before it spontaneously ignites independently of spark
3, There will only be benefit in using higher RON fuel if the engine is mapped and operating beyond it's knock limit in respect of ignition timing for the prevailing conditions in the cylinders (temperature/pressure).
Most modern engines now have active knock control with knock sensor(s) continuously monitoring the knock levels within the engine, and ECU retarding timing as neccesary to maintain the operating envelope within the programmed knock limit. This allows the engine to operate at it's optimum torque and efficiency for the prevailing conditions.
If the knock limit is not exceeded in a particular engine, then higher RON fuel will show no benefit. However, if the prevailing conditions are encroaching on the knock limit then higher RON fuel will allow the engine to operate further into it's intended operating region and realise more torque/power and potentially fuel economy, as the engine will be working at higher efficiency.
So simply - if the engine is mapped to produce it's rated torque/power output on high RON fuel, then it will almost certainly not achieve that with 95 - at some operating conditions the knock limit of 95 fuel will be exceeded and the engine output will be restricted by ECU control accordingly.
If you are just cruising around, or indeed as is the case in the current weather with traction limitations, there is a case for doubting the benefit of using 97+RON fuel, as the engine will likely be operating well within the knock limits, no damage will occur to the engine either way.
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bear in mind that any "generic" EOBD reader, although applicable to a wide range of cars, will only read engine system codes, and only EOBD generic ones at that, which will be dependent on what the individual engine system puts out under EOBD. You will probably be able to read and clear codes that put the engine MIL light on, but no guarantees beyond that.
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Is there really such a major requirement these days to go to a dealer for servicing rather than a decent independent? Surely as long as the correct service schedule is followed and genuine parts used, then warranty is maintained? There is no magic about main dealer servicing, indeed often the independents will be more competent because they need to be to maintain customer base.
The "antibacterial additive" thing I think is related to the amount of bioethanol which is getting added in fuel these days, which is prone to both water absorption and potential bacterial "growth" in the fuel system.
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Check to see if the switch itself actually houses the relay - SEAT Leon ones do, I've not checked the Skoda one. If so then the switch is favourite, but check the obvious first, ie. fuses
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I think I'm going to ignor it and get a Dyno done at powerstation in Tewksbury.
does that mean you are not too far from Badger5 at Stonehouse? Bill would run it properly for you on his dyno and give you reliable and repeatable results.
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have to agree with Taff - anyone who thinks only their "friends" get to see the stuff they post are being seriously naive, essentially once anything is posted onto the internet in any respect it is basically public domain from there on.
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the friendly and efficient chaps at Turners of Erlestoke did mine today
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For maximum benefit, remember that weight (or rather lack of it) is king! The less weight you are carrying round the better, more power is no substitute for less weight.
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Anyone else doing this one?
http://www.trackday-instructor.co.uk/Charity-Track-days.html
This is a great value event, with plenty of track time available, open pit lane for a large part of the day.
A couple of us will be there with our TT race car for a bit of fun now the race season has finished [
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I got my 4x4 Sapphire when i was 40 LOL. 300hp and looked after properly, I used it regularly and gave me no trouble at all, including a couple of nurburgring trips. I would personally go for 4x4, you can fairly much do what you like with it even in the wet and not get bitten in the a$$, unlike the 2wd!
That was the one car I've owned that put a stupid smile on my face absolutely every time i drove it
Also the most comfortable car I've had, the leather Recaros are just THE best seats ever. -
Chedder Valley or Black Rat!
oh yeees :-))
Thatchers anything will do the job nicely
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how does it run under load, any hint of misfires? A lot of these symptoms will coincide with a coilpack breaking down. If so there should be misfire fault codes logged in the ECU
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Frankly there's more chance of getting F1 sorted out.. The death penalty won't happen IMO, no-one will have the b@lls to do it in this politically correct mire we find ourselves in now.
) . Also consider the effect on the plating materials on catalysts and particulate filters if fitted..
thank you
Also the most comfortable car I've had, the leather Recaros are just THE best seats ever.
turbo cleaner.. engine cleaner..
in Skoda Fabia Mk I (1999-2007)
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