Fabcol

Hi, I don't understand the policy of this massive dash to EV's. EV's aren't environmentally friendly to the point of exploiting a country out of sight out of mind with children working in appalling conditions whilst destroying huge areas of countryside; EV's burning out electric bikes not only exploding but burning houses down; increasing strain on national grid which is already stressed during a severe winter; millions of hours totally wasted waiting for an EV to be charged often on a very exposed site without even a roof covering. £12.50 per day on top of already sky high energy bills; I could go on and on; it's down to the person spending money as to choice taken; I won't enter into prolonged discussions regarding EV/ICE because now I'm aged 76 I'm hoping apart from accident our Yeti will last us out. Here's our Yeti totally compliant with ULEZ IT'S A 2.0L DIESEL it can be fueled at most street corners in minutes under a roof and will travel 500/600 miles on a single tank full of diesel; after 100 years of infrastructure building everything is already in place to completely look after ICE vehicles from fueling to scrapping so why all this upheaval to go EV especially when the UK is such a small polluter (?) compared to other countries. The UK heavy industry is being phased out being replaced by fast food outlets; sports people are treated like gods. I see EV's as just another money making tax to boost government coffers a great deal more than it makes to the environment. I was born in 1947 during the worst winter on record; coal was king; industry booming coal fires causing fog & smog but in those days we enjoyed proper seasons without worrying about the ice cap melting. Where were the polluting cars then. https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&sca_esv=558044001&sxsrf=AB5stBj6wsE44Ocl6M95WEgZSwWC4vyYYg:1692343088789&q=winter+1947+photos&tbm=isch&source=univ&fir=sQJ-qFjZjHEaAM%252CAM9AULsWLqbULM%252C_%253B_7Y9nKnLV-Q9BM%252C-EP8gzXSDac9tM%252C_%253Bxu70G5tUlAk8qM%252CNlDhsMOSoCW1VM%252C_%253BXIB-ddRlkIRnFM%252CxV_Q2OXMo8dSjM%252C_%253BEdNJKbdzWxm1kM%252CSljOj0dGmWBb8M%252C_%253B6t5XLre_O5Qw2M%252CYDuJOKz8VcYROM%252C_%253BRt5KYNjCTWyYEM%252C5bm6UsHR31ZAbM%252C_%253BJIqiZhUYXi7M2M%252C-HT8uDneuD-ELM%252C_%253Bk5ub4crYGQDaoM%252CcBFzR9c9kJ9F9M%252C_%253BXhKqiInpCOx0nM%252C8erX_yFaGE4eAM%252C_%253Bx4R0oZ-LDfogVM%252CkyTvIrKgJ9XocM%252C_%253BufTBnrAp7MsliM%252CY5zJQHI1DJ_VdM%252C_%253Bw84HZrKWcXwGQM%252CbZQqL1u6U1xOXM%252C_&usg=AI4_-kTuaeh36WR34wf-XSeZq4gBs6nu0g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjHtJSl1eWAAxXrTEEAHWOcBCEQjJkEegQIIBAC&biw=1920&bih=927&dpr=1 Years ago the government wanted everyone in diesel vehicles now diesel is bad and EV are now good; in another few years I expect another change when another new fuel is being pushed by the government. Just my views and no offense meant to anyone. We love our ULEZ Compliant 2.0L DIESEL Skoda Yeti; I've just done lots of rustproofing because it's a keeper and perfect for our needs; at 7 years old I believe it's actually gong up in value. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks toot; I'll have a look at the EV section as you kindly suggest. 👍 Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks for the update toot; 👍 my wife and I have just watched this video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F2_PMuL_4w4&t=919s I'm always short of time so pop onto the forum whenever I can; I often wander off topic and don't mind other members doing this I learn a great deal this way as long as the mods kindly allow it. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, I did apply the diesel/old oil to the fence using a brush; a very messy but rather therapeutic job on a nice warm dry day but with heavy rain forecast the day after so I was in a bit of a rush; normally I allow each panel a few minutes to drip but needed to get the job done in the day hence the panels dripped then a pressure cleaning job was needed. Seven panels so eight posts. Treating these posts highlighted today's tradespeople at least the the builder working (?) directly across the street; just as I started this builder arrived in his battered truck; I treated all eight posts; caps & finials taking just an hour; I felt sorry for this builder; he must struggle a great deal with his mobile phone; cigarette; food & drink he simply doesn't have enough hands in order to cope. He finally got out of the truck as I was putting my brush away; he went into the house then shortly after he drove away; In the afternoon the builder arrived once again but this time only spent three quarters of an hour on his backside in his truck. I wouldn't want him on our site. Two weeks ago the skip lorry shattered the manhole cast iron cover in front of our garden wall on the pavement; these things happen and it was quickly replaced. On Monday this week here's what happened; The new manhole covered not only shattered but the whole manhole structure now compromised. CCTV is very useful; here's the lorry on top of the cover. This damage occurred in the morning; 3pm I became involved; I sent camera images together with CCTV slides to Myers the skip company; Myer's were totally unaware of this damage but they were brilliant thanking me and another skip wagon quickly arrived; it was hugely dangerous and the driver causing the damage didn't report it; the debris was cleared and as I type there's a big safety cover over the hole with a traffic cone at each corner. We wonder if the builder is on the clock or on a fixed price quote. I'm sure we've made the right decision in keeping our lovely Yeti having watched EV's self destruct on YouTube; there are so many things wrong with EV's but propaganda is playing such a big role in convincing people to trade in their often decent ICE car to go the EV route; where will it end. Here's an EV in self destruct mode on a road I often travel; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvIi2kIDy54 We'd replace our Yeti with another brand new diesel Yeti; if only Skoda would make a basic diesel Yeti without all the modern electronics we'd certainly trade ours in. Just rambling because heavy rain is forecast and outside it's already a black hole although it feels very warm today. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks oldstan for your welcome concern; yes it's not the nicest stuff to spray but I intended to do it on our driveway out in the open wearing a respirator; to be safe though I'll heed your kind advice and brush it on instead which is my usual method of application; removing the panels mean I can fully treat them it just takes time; usually a full day. Many years ago I tried Creoseal a Creosote replacement with good reviews; it washed off in the first year so now I use the old oil/diesel mixture which lasts four or five years and costs incredible little; I've also tried shed & fence treatments but modern health and safety regs has killed the best treatments like Creosote. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, A quick update. I've collected 2 gallons of old engine oil this afternoon; when I asked how much I owed it was free of charge in fact the guy was glad to get rid of it because it now costs to dispose of old oil; I can have as much as I like but this mixed with diesel at 50/50 will last years for the fences I want to treat; usually I brush it on taking ages this time I'll use a spray gun. This is a bespoke fence I made about twenty years ago when I installed the new pathway; it's made to suit the slope and made from treated roof tiling battens costing very little indeed other than thought to design and time to make; each panel is secured by four hex head 75mm long turbo screws enabling the panels to be removed allowing a proper treatment. The fence still looks like new because I treat it every three years or so. These panels cannot be bought; the acorn finials are wood-turned from the post top offcuts with oak capping blocks. Just adding this for interest. I never want anything for nothing so I took along a box of chocs on the back seat of the car which were welcomed as I handed them over. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, I've now found a trusted independent service garage; to check it out I visited on Tuesday; parking is restricted regarding space and inside the bays it looked very well used indeed not in the least posh. As I waited in reception a young lady was being told about a slight knock on the front end of her car but at this time don't worry too much; if it becomes worse then let us know and we'll sort it out for you; I was now already very impressed. My turn next; I asked if they could supply about two gallons of old dirty engine oil I'm happy to pay for it and supply a container; have a word with so and so I'm sure he can help; I went to the guy pointed out and once again asked for the oil; yes no problem at all; I don't have a container with me but I'll call back. At this point I asked if he could in future service our Yeti explaining the main dealer problem; he wasn't in the least surprised and said yes; next I asked if he could also rustproof the chassis area of the Yeti the under wings etc already done by me I said I can supply the Bilt Hamber. I was truly amazed by his reply; if you visit at dinnertime any day when the Yeti is dry you're very welcome to use one of the car lifts; this was a real surprise and I replied I'm not after favours I'll be happy to pay. Now he was interested because he wanted to rustproof his own vehicle and intended to use Dinitrol so I've since sent him a link to Bilt Hamber website together with suggestion he view YouTube videos showing it being used. I walked in as a total stranger and from first contact it was very friendly indeed nothing too much trouble and I feel happier the Yeti will be looked after in future knowing services won't be skimped. Pity I didn't know this nine years ago when I put my trust in the main dealer. Sorry no company name they are already full up with work. No fancy showroom no frills just good old fashioned car servicing by a well established company. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, It must be a couple of years ago since I visited Rufforth Auto Jumble near York the only distance covered in the meantime had been to hospitals. Apart from the usual 50mph stretch on the M1 it was mostly 70mph both ways with cruise control engaged; what an absolutely delightful car our Yeti is to own & drive. I didn't want anything but I returned home about £60 less in the pocket with a load of goodies; I always end up buying urgent items I didn't know I needed. Here's to many more years of Yeti enjoyment. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, I wonder what our environmentally friendly diesel Yeti on £35 per year road tax with 32,000 miles on its clock would be worth in London. I'm in full agreement with you Prezafab; our Yeti is simply brilliant and a keeper; there's nothing new to touch it as an all round wonderful car. I've just sent a polite email to DMK explaining we won't be dealing with them in future and why; it's time to move on being older and much wiser. It's going to be an independent garage in future something I never thought we'd have to resort to. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks for your suggestion Expatman regarding writing to the MD; I think looking at my recent experience I'd just receive a standard reply given to all customers; the best thing I can do is learn from my mistake in being so gullible and trusting; I'll walk away rather than getting upset and annoyed; losing our business will hurt them more also we have friends with Skoda's who are now warned. Had I thought it to be a simple mistake I'd have gone in person to speak to the service guy in a respectful manner. We've also just paid for the two yearly brake fluid change; have they actually replaced it? Sadly J.R. I've come to the same conclusion and wonder if a postcode is taken into account as to the amount of rip off? I'll make it known to the independent when I visit I'm a mechanical engineer. Back in 2016 whilst giving our bungalow interior a full and comprehensive makeover we visited a fireplace company in Horbury Bridge called "Flames". Their guy came out to do the survey for the new high efficiency gas fire and he was impressed by work I've carried out over many years; I told him my background was mechanical engineering; his amusing and friendly reply was that he'd better let the installers know; two guys did an absolutely wonderful job being here for hours; I couldn't fault them or their work it's a pity others don't work to the same standards; anyone local I can highly recommend "Flames Of Wakefield". The Yeti wheels being so heavy take a lot of effort to refit them so this morning I popped over to Danlett in Huddersfield and as you rightly pointed out J.R. the threads are an unusual size; I wanted a bolt which would have an unthreaded section but all they had was Hex head set screws; I bought two these being M14x1.5x80 HEX SETS DIN961 GD 8.8. Back home I quickly modified them cutting the hex heads off leaving a threaded 55mm length; in the lathe I removed most of the thread to give a smoother length of 35mm; screwdriver slots were cut using a hacksaw and all sharp edges removed; These will now screw into the wheel hub allowing the wheel to slide on; they are a very loose fit in the wheel holes but I don't think it will matter; I'm unable to try them due to our wet weather although next week is forecast dry and warm. It's sad so few can be trusted these days; the new rustproofing spray gun arrived this morning but I'm unable to use it until the car dries not just on the outside but also inside the cavities which I think will take a lot of drying out; I want to complete the rust proofing as much as I can before the weather gives way to our very long winter. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks for asking J.R. I'd already bought the discs & pads so rather than just fit the pads I did both; I could have damaged the original discs getting them off because they were incredibly tight being rusted on then I can forget them for many years to come. Thanks also for the information regarding the wheel stud size; it was just a thought but we have a local store called Danlett who do all things fasteners; https://www.bolts.co.uk/ I have both woodturning and metal turning lathes; I don't even need them threaded just a close sliding fit will do and I've got plenty of round bar stock so can make my own plain; threaded and even knurled in a number of designs. Two could well be better as you kindly suggest. Rain is forecast again for tomorrow so I could spend a bit of time in the workshop. I've also got plenty of thread gauges. I do regard it as money saving though because had I not known just being a normal customer I'd have believed it and had the work carried out; anyway it's done; next week I think is going to be hotter so fingers crossed I can resume rustproofing; I want to complete the rustproofing as much as I can before winter kicks in. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Many thanks for the tips Carlodiesel; yes well lubricated where needed after lots of cleaning first to remove rust and dirt; I spun the pins in the lathe to polish them before greasing; copper grease used throughout; one job I do want to do is to buy a bolt about 3" long the same thread as the wheel studs and cut its head off adding a screwdriver slot and removing the sharp edge; I can then screw this into the hub finger tight and hopefully it will make replacing the wheel a lot easier once the wheel is located then unscrew the new fixing; just an idea but these wheels tend to get heavier each time I handle them; it's worth a try. I use the wheel wrench supplied with the Yeti for removing and refitting the wheels but I've also made a 12" long extension out of steel pipe which is a nice sliding fit over the wrench handle; this is now full time in the car; when the service guys refit the wheels they tighten the studs so tight it's difficult to remove them without a struggle using the short wrench; every bit helps. One thing I'm struggling with is judging brake master cylinder filling level; I'm hopelessly colour blind which doesn't help and the Skoda user manual doesn't help me; it's not the easiest master cylinder to access; no icon warning on the dashboard but I'll get it checked for peace of mind; I'm very keen when it comes to safety; seen in the pictures I have two trolley jacks and the wheel under the car. Thanks Prezafab; I'm not throwing stones at DM Keith's I'll just not deal with them in future; I've never tried to cut costs but this brake job has been a rude awakening for me. Ideally I'd have liked to use Ferodo parts but over 50 years ago owning my own garage business I often used Borg & Beck so am happy to use them. It's my first time using A-Z but I'm delighted with their service; one pair of the new pads had the wear indicator lead fitted; our Yeti doesn't need this so I double checked with A-Z via a phone call; just snip it off the manufacturer fits this to all new pads then if not needed it can easily be removed; as I say I'm very keen indeed regarding safety. Having been treated like this I wonder if our discs would be replaced by worn out discs should I have requested their return then I'd have been non the wiser; customers shouldn't need to mark parts of their car for identification; I'll just walk away. I'd like a gallon of old used black engine oil and will visit the independent to see if I can buy a gallon to test the water; I mix old engine oil with diesel for treating our fences; it works much better than the products I've used in the past which I apply one year and the next year they are washed off; I like the smell of oil & grease it takes me back to my time in the pit. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, In July this year our seven year old Yeti 2.0L diesel SE L sailed through the MOT with a clean bill of health this done at the same time as the service carried out by DM Keith Wakefield who have maintained the Yeti from new as they did with our previous Fabia Monte Carlo; it's done a gentle well looked after 32,000 miles and I drive on the gears not the brakes. With a clear MOT I was more than surprised to find an impending bill for new front discs & pads total of £352 had been recorded on the service sheet? A few days ago I checked Ferodo website for local suppliers and visited A-Z Motor Factors here in Huddersfield; A two minute phone call and a bit of time with dirty hands has saved me £252; A-Z were brilliant and the Borg & Beck discs & pads came to exactly £100 over the counter. They are now fitted and I took my time cleaning and greasing; the original discs were proving a real pain to remove they were rusted absolutely solid; in the end I visited YouTube; I'm an NCB trained mechanical engineer and given how tight these discs were I didn't want to use excessive force. Just give a few heavy sharp clouts on the front face outer rim of the disc with a 4lb club hammer; hitting the disc a number of times in different places shocks the disc free; put the Torx screw back in loosely to save the disc flying off. It works a treat saving no end of hassle and frustration. A new disc in place it's a shame to get it dirty. The original discs in excellent condition. With the original discs on the bench out of curiosity I measured with a micrometer; they are exactly 21mm thick; new discs are 22mm thick and require replacing at 18mm thick. 1mm wear in 32,000 miles if they were to wear equally over the next few years then they would easily last for a further 50,000 miles. The pads yes they were worn but still had many thousands of miles in them. I've found a local independent service garage with an excellent reputation for future work on our beloved Yeti. The £352 I thought reasonable considering a main dealership's overheads what I don't think reasonable is replacing perfectly good used parts with new. I've posted elsewhere but we intend to keep our Yeti so I've also been rustproofing with Bilt Hamber products; all four inner wings and suspension now treated; I dropped the wing liners and have replaced the fixings using heavy duty zinc plated U nuts and also Stainless self tapping Pozi screws with stainless penny washers. Very heavy duty U nuts. U nuts in place. I don't need to rustproof these they being stainless and I've got a good stock of these U nuts; Pozi self tappers and washers. These Pozi self tapping flange screws have a smaller flange the the T25 they replaced so penny washers made an even better job. Worth posting again if I've already posted the pictures of the wing liner fixings. Next job will be injecting the cavities with Bilt S50 rust proofing. Just passing a bit of time before teatime; it's been another very busy day. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Sorry again CEB123; I have indeed hijacked your thread meaning no offense; you say £550 at a Skoda garage yet multiple quotes around £300; Skoda garages are ripping customers off big style; I've located a local independent garage this afternoon with many years experience (over 30 years) and all the latest testing kit; they've got a new customer. My Yeti is the 2.0L diesel 110hp adblue model. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Even cheaper on eBay with free delivery but I'm still happy with the price I paid and didn't have to wait. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks Prezafab & Carlston. What a morning I've just endured; shopping first thing and back home by 7:30. Next I phoned TPS now A-Z Motorspares recommended on Ferodo website as one of their dealers. It took all of two minutes to save £252. DMK quoted £352 for new front discs & pads inc fitting; discs don't need changing at all and the pads would last a great deal longer given our annual low mileage. I've passed A-Z (TPS) at 100 Leeds Road hundreds of times so set off not needing to take any details with me; parking was abysmal; permit holders only on nearby streets so park near the timber yard and walk back; the building had shutters up it was closed? Back to the car and return home to sort myself out; just typical of my bad luck. Back home and look on Google maps; the street view building shows a huge sign "We have moved" because it's so long ago they moved the sign is no longer there I don't use a mobile phone. A mug of tea and lump of cherry cake off I went again this time taking along full details. No problem at all finding the new premises but in order to help other local forum members A-Z are no longer located at 100 Leeds Road, Huddersfield they are now at; A-Z motorspares, Old Fieldhouse Lane, Huddersfield. HD2 1AG Tele; 01484 536999. My bad luck now changed to good luck; absolutely top class service the guy even carried the boxes out to the Yeti. They've got a new customer. Now for the good part; top quality Borg & Beck front discs & pads exactly £100 for the lot the pads £32.00 the discs £68.00 both plus VAT. I don't need to change the pads maybe for a couple of years given our low annual mileage the discs are less than 1mm worn but have a slight outer lip. I'll now fit new discs and pads but the original discs I can skim the outer lip on my lathe so in years to come at the next pad change I can replace the original discs so nothing lost. I don't mind spending on the Yeti after all it's depreciation is virtually zero and possibly it could increase in value; it's not really about money; we just love our Yeti and don't want to part with it if we did then we might realize we've made a huge mistake. £352 wanted by DM Kieth Wakefield to replace the discs and pads this including labour I feel is excessive but the worst part is wanting to replace the discs they having so little wear on them; the Yeti has been driven a 32,000 careful miles solely by me and I don't drive with my foot on the brake I use the gears. I no longer trust DMK and will be using an independent garage for future work; things like fitting brake discs and pads are very easy for me to do; get my hands dirty do a top class job taking my time and save £252; we've trusted DMK for the last nine years. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Many thanks Prezafab; yes Trade Parts in Huddersfield are our only local authorized Ferodo dealer; it's this company I'll be visiting; it's possible "Trade" could be taken two ways; trade only no retail at all or genuine trade parts sold retail; but I'll find out shortly. I think I'll replace both discs & pads after all the originals have lasted seven years and I don't fancy just replacing pads when there's a slight lip on the discs; I want to look after our Yeti it's already cheap motoring compared to the huge drop in depreciation if we went the EV route which we've no intention of doing. Now you mention it Carlston I remember the last time we passed Ferodo in Chapel En Le Frith years ago it actually did show Federal-Mogul I'd forgotten this. I wonder if these products are now Chinese made under the Apollo banner; do we still manufacture anything of value here in the UK apart from fast food? What our politicians get up to doesn't surprise me in the least it's rapidly becoming a dictatorship and how long before we're charged to walk our streets; our local Councillors are brilliant; £50M in deficit but yet how about these just installed at £250,000? https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-leeds-66586175 My wife and I haven't visited Huddersfield Town center for about 25 years; the ring road is as near as we dare get because we travel by private car not cycle. Trade Parts Specialist are as near to town as I dare venture; thinking about just how bad Huddersfield is regarding motorists I'll phone and ask if they do retail then if not I've not suffered visiting; with my luck it's highly likely I'll end up buying elsewhere. Who really knows were "Genuine" Ferodo parts are now made? Kind regards, Colin

Hi, I've just been browsing the web for genuine Ferodo parts; please note brake disc thickness at 22mm. This morning I've been working on the nearside front of our Yeti with the wheel removed and wing liner; using a micrometer I measured the thickness of the disc it's slightly over 21mm. The main dealership at the service in July recommended both front discs & pads be replaced? Sorry for the poor scan but seen is £352 for discs & pads inc fitting. I've now got a choice; fit pads only saving around £300 or fit pads and discs for little over £100; just rough figures but near enough for this comparison. For years I've trusted the main dealership. I can take plenty of time doing the job myself and possibly doing the job better? Kind regards, Colin. Part duplicated

Hi, Thanks Prezafab; I'm coming to the same conclusion; everyone's a rip off merchant these days. Our Yeti at only 32,000 miles shouldn't require new brake discs but as I'm rustproofing the Yeti if it ever dries due to rain & dew I'll have a close look at the pads and I believe there are disc thickness specifications which I can easily measure using digital vernier calipers or micrometer; I'm a mechanical engineer by trade so have a good workshop and replacing discs and pads won't be a problem. I've just become lazy regarding cars since 1990 when we started buying brand new cars hence our car then was always under warranty; I've just started getting my hands dirty again and apart from our dire climate I'm enjoying it. Thanks freedie; as I say I can replace the discs & pads at home without problem; I'd like genuine Ferodo parts so will have a look around but with winter knocking on the door I might wait now until next springtime after all the mileage covered these days is very low; had it been a matter of urgency I'd have already done the job because I'll never compromise on safety. Sorry CEB123 for hijacking your thread.

Hi, At the seven year service in July this year there was an "Amber" front brake discs & pads 75% worn. The Yeti a 2.0L diesel SE L has only covered 32,000 miles and I drive using the gears so I'm concerned about the discs needing changing at such a low mileage; main dealer cost £352 for a pair of discs & pads? Our Yeti has always been main dealer serviced from new. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, I'm currently rustproofing my Yeti having already dropped the wing liners and treated the under wing and suspension with Bilt Hamber Dynax-UB. Next I want to treat the cavities with Bilt Hamber Dynax-S50 . One area concerns me regarding access; is it possible to remove and refit the cill plastic covers; I'd like to know what's happening behind them? I bought 5L each of the Bilt Hamber; a £14 eBay spray gun applied it using my small compressor; I want our Yeti to last many years. We love it. Bin bag over brake disk. Looking much better than rust. Usual bottom trouble area well protected. Polished yesterday using Bilt Hamber Auto Balm. Why oh why did Skoda stop making Yeti's; we'd be on our third brand new Yeti by now. Kind regards.

Hi, Thanks Prezafab; I'd rather have slightly more sound than rusted out front wings. I misunderstood the jacking points shown in the owners manual; I've now found the correct jacking points; using a tape measure with the end of the tape abutting the mud flap there is a triangle on the underside of the cill; at the front the triangle is 3.5" towards the rear and 1" from the bottom flange; at the rear measured from the mud flap it's 11" to the triangle and again 1" from the bottom flange; these triangles aren't easy to see but they stand slightly proud of the cill and can be felt with fingers. The Met office forecast was for rain this morning so where is the rain; we've had a few drops that's all; why oh why do I keep falling for these forecasts; I could have done the last wing this morning; I bet though if I start after dinner it will bucket down. The clips on the Yeti are poor and rusting so I bought 50 of these and they sure are very strong; I'm giving them a good dose of rustproofing so these together with stainless screws should last a while. They are so strong they're a pain to install. Some of the original T25 Torq screws are badly rusted. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Our Yeti rustproofing under way 7 years old it was rusting badly. This looks much better. This Bilt Hamber isn't cheap but well worth it. Rustproofing under both front wings has taken two days; wire brushes; scrapers; and coarse abrasive paper were used to remove loose rust; items not to be sprayed were masked off; pedal bin liners were perfect to cover the brake disks and was secured with masking tape; other areas covered with paper and cloth; an old heavy duty lined curtain protected the driveway; it's an incredibly messy; sticky job. The axle stands I bought through eBay still haven't arrived so I used two trolley jacks for safety; one under the jacking point on the cill the other very near under the chassis; both wheels on the opposite side were chocked with bricks. The wing liners were fun to remove having found all 19 T25 Torx screws but a great deal more fun to replace; I've ordered new screws and fasteners and will replace all once they arrive; I'm going to try these stainless self tappers and bought 50 to experiment with; I'm not in a hurry but am worried about our usual dire wet climate; I hope the rain holds off for another two days; if I get all four under wings done I'll be happy but I'd like to rustproof the cavities too. I emailed the eBay seller of the Bilt Hamber asking if it had a shelf life but fortunately the reply was good news; 7 years if in the container. White spirit gives easy clean up; I'll start on the rear end tomorrow; it's tiring work and for a change it's been 25C today so no complaints from me; fingers crossed it will last. This is the story so far. Before I forget; I was discussing rust proofing with a local top end car restoration guy and he told me he gets lots of VW's in with rotten front wings stating there's a large foam packing piece glued to the under wing at the top; this is shown above removed from our Yeti and both are now removed; these accelerate rotting. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Thanks Prezafab; I'll pay special attention to the areas you mention; this morning I watched a YouTube video showing how to remove a Yeti door panel wondering if it would be easy then I'd have better access to inside the door for applying rustproofing; I think it will be easier and quicker just to drill and plug. Since buying the rustproofing the car has seldom been dry; here in Yorkshire it's rained again overnight and put an heavy shower down this morning; it's very overcast so more rain yet to fall? My garage was converted to my workshop years ago it's full of machines and benches hence the Yeti sleeps out so I'm hampered by bad weather; good job it's classed as summer? What I see of Bilt Hamber products having watched YouTube videos it's all top quality whichever is chosen;I'm too bogged down with central heating boiler problems to concentrate on anything; two weeks hassle two service engineers called the problem still with us. Much better than the horrendous fires abroad; I'll put up with rust and rain rather than suffer such disaster. For years I firstly used Showroom Shine then Williams both having carnauba; I think I paid over £20 a few years ago for 5L and still have lots left; it's incredibly easy to apply and buff up but I find it doesn't last long although freshly applied it does look good. I want to use the Bilt Auto Balm but the rain won't let me. Kind regards, Colin.

Hi, Sorry for the late reply Prezafab. Do you mean the inside of the lower doors if so then I'll be injecting the Bilt Hamber S50 which I'll also use for all cavities. On the outside of the doors the only problem areas are the very bottom corner which tends to come into contact with the low wall each side of our driveway; I simply touch these up with matching paint as I do with the few stone chips; the outer bodywork still looks like new. The bottom door drains need to be kept open. After a lot of thought I reluctantly decided to cancel the rustproofing feeling rather sorry for inconveniencing the garage. Given our usual Yorkshire dire climate and the need to pressure wash under the Yeti then I'm sure it would never dry sufficiently in two days before applying the rustproofing hence speeding up rusting. Assuming we do get some decent dry weather then I can do the job bit at a time; I had considered having the Yeti pressure washed then bringing it back home to completely dry then return it for the rustproofing to be applied however what If I run through a puddle or another wet source; GRRR what a climate. I also want to wash and dry the Yeti because I've bought this and want to try it out; BILT HAMBER AUTO BALM WAX 250ML - HIGH GLOSS PROTECTION - ANTI CORROSION £22.95 I might have mentioned we love our Yeti. Kind regards, Colin.