SideshowBob
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Posts posted by SideshowBob
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The mount on my mid-section has gone, and I've got the same dilemma. It has already been welded once and there's just not enough metal there to take another weld...it would just burn through. But apparently the system from the cat-back is one piece from the factory which means any issue with any of it from the cat back requires you to buy both back sections to sort it?
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Steering tie-rods or trackrod ends could be the culprits. I've got play in the O/S tie arm in the joint that meets the rack, so I'm replacing it with a new trackrod end soon. It makes a similar noise to yours. If you jack the wheel up and can't feel any play top-to-bottom but can feel it side-to-side it would point to the same problem.
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Oh and they also create a restriction in the scuttle drain, causing a backup of compost in the wing, but that's servicable.
That happens anyway. I cleared about 3kg of mud and silt out of my inner wings when I fitted mudflaps.
The one thing they do effectively is stop the front of your sills getting eaten alive by stonechips. Mine have never scraped the floor btw apart from in snowy conditions.
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What connector type does yours have to the loom? If it's the exposed blade type I have a spare motor & linkage which I mistakenly bought that you can have cheap?
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Would you say the mod makes any difference?
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I used to get 290-320 out of my my00 Scooby, sitting at 60mph on the motorway every day. I thought 'whats the point?'. I think that worked out at about 26mpg and even on a long run the most I ever got was 29mpg. Drive it like you want to and it would be the high teens at best.
So having something like the vRS is great, albeit with less grip and a less able chassis but similar power since the remap. Even if I nail it I'm still in the 20's, and have the option of 40mpg+ if I can be bothered to sit at 60mph on the cruise control.
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SAI is the secondary air injection, a system that's there to reduce emissions from a cold start.
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FFS :no:
Life's too short to worry about mpg all the time.
As long as it's high 20's or in the 30's don't worry about it. I've even recently stopped resetting my trip meter each time I fill up, what's the point? You just end up trudging around everywhere and it does your engine no good.
I worked out a while ago that the difference between me just driving it how I wanted to (briskly but not daft) as opposed to mpg-hunting, was only saving me about £10 a week. I'm more than willing to pay a tenner to be able to drive how I want to.
I want to be able to look back at all the great drives I have in my cars, not look at how many pence I've saved.
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I saw an old 70's Ford Cortina a few months back in Leyland town centre, he was running hydraulics that popped the front up about 5 foot in the air
Gotta say, I know they're not cool over here and people don't see the point, but I love em, especially the bouncy ones that jump several feet in the air (and tend to land on the roof)
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I have a similar adapter (mine's a Grom box) which does the job nicely. I bought a 30gb iPod for £45 and it prett much just lives there. I mounted the box up inside the dash and ran the leas out to the shelf where the OBD port is located. The stereo treats it as a cd changer and you can control the playlists with the cd number buttons.
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You can download a Pdf of the manual on their website.
What do you need to know?
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It sounds like one of the coil springs has snapped, it makes the twang as it moves about on the base of the strut, usually heard when going onto full lock and turning back again
+1
Wot he said.
They normally snap right at the top, making it tricky to notice anything's wrong up there. This is a pretty common problem.
I had to replace them on my last Golf, and my Octy that I bought since has receipts that show it also had a set of front springs replaced.
I would recommend you replace the pair, along with the upper damper bearing (while it's all off anyway). It's an inexpensive job if you can do it yourself, but it is a bit of a PITA.
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You won't get much DV noise at all with just a straight replacement. A panel filter gives a bit more noise, and a CAI gives quite a bit more!
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Ok I disconnected the maf for a few miles tonight. Didn't seem to drive any different really, the lumpy delivery problem was still there but it didn't run rougher or anything. Might have to try it again just to be sure.
Does that mean the maf is ok or is it knackered?
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Ok will give that a try. If the maf is goosed, what happens when I unplug it?
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Hi all
I've got a strange problem with my Mk1 Octavia vRS, in that I get uneven power on medium throttle openings. On full throttle it seems fine, it idles nicely and is smooth on a constant throttle. But if I open the throttle halfway, say around 7-10psi on the gauge, the power is lumpy and uneven. It's as if the boost is wavering all over the place but the recently-added boost gauge tells me that the boost is staying constant. There isn't any 'kicking' that I'd associate with a duff coil pack, it's more subtle than that.
My car has a stage 1 remap (Performance Torque), forge 007p and a PiperX dry filter, that's about it really.
I managed to get some VAG-COM logs done (thanks mikeholroyd
) and I've attached the results. I'm not sure the sampling rate is enough to show up any problems so we might have to figure out why that happened and do some more runs. However does anything look amiss to anyone on the logs that we did already?We logged blocks 002, 115 and 118.
Any help appreciated as always.
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Cheers all
will give it another whirl -
Not really Rob, thanks though
That panel's not the problem, I've left it off anyway while I sort this little project out (trying to route the gauge wiring and vac tube though mainly)
It's the join between lower panel (the one that has the cutout for the steering column and surround) and the upper main dash - they won't seem to seperate.
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I'm pretty sure I located all the screws, it just seems to cling on where it meets the upper dash and is free to rotate forwards etc but does not come off?
I got the screws in and around the fusebox, removed the fuse holder from the panel, removed the lower panel (above the pedals) and the 3 or 4 torx screws that are facing upwards in that area....it's just still attached somehow to the other dash part.
I just don't want to force it or pull it unless I know it's in the right place and direction otherwise it'll no doubt break lugs off and I'll end up with a creaky dash (it'll be like having a peugeot again!
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Hi all
Probably a really daft question but how does the drivers side lower dash panel come off? I've removed all the Torx screws I can see, but it still seems to be attached somehow where it curves inward and butts up to the upper dash.
I'm sure it's just a case of pulling it in the right direction, but I've broken enough trim clips and mounting points in my time, to know when to check first
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Have you noticed any difference to the way it drives, smoothness etc or the way the DV vents since you did the N249 bypass Si?
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Cheers Si, I think I'll go ahead and T it in there.
Just took a look on a few other 1.8T forums and there's a few peeps who T it into the vac feed to the DV. Although surely that's post-249 so not a true manifold reading?
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Cheers Rob
The pipe I mentioned would look to be the one that runs to the N249. I'm not sure whether it would be a suitable place to hook into or not? I suppose as long as that line is at the same pressure as manifold (ie no restrictor inline or anything) then it should give an accurate reading however surely other people would be doing that already?
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Ok it's now wired in and all that seems ok.
I have to say, looking at the diameter and short length of the pipe to the FPR, I tend to agree with earlier comments that it doesn't seem the ideal place to run the vac pipe from. There's another pipe that leaves the manifold just in front of the pipe to the FPR. I can't see exactly where it runs to so has anyone used this pipe instead?
Next prob is how to get the vac pipe through the bulkhead. I can't see anywhere obvious so the plan is to drill a 10mm hole and feed the hose through a grommet, unless anyone knows an existing location to route it through?
Lastly, the hose clips on the small 6 & 7mm hoses...the type that are crimped on..where can I get some of those? What's the proper name for em?
Any help appreciated
) and I've attached the results. I'm not sure the sampling rate is enough to show up any problems so we might have to figure out why that happened and do some more runs. However does anything look amiss to anyone on the logs that we did already?
Full Exhaust inc Cat
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
That's reassuring, I already got one of those cut-to-length rolls of jubilee clip with the clips and made one that wrapped diagonally around the pipe and the mount underneath it.
It's good to know it isn't just me that had this problem - in fact I had the same issue on my Golf previously too.