Sittingbull

It's the switch, although on the actual switch is slightly loose for some reason so not holding the "on" position, sorted it for now with it taped to "on" position but will need new switch. Aye we're plugging away G, will message you off forum, hope you and yours all well too.

Hi, anyone had situation whereby DRLs on mk2 vRS have stopped working when you start car up? They do come on when you switch sidelights on but previously they came on really bright when car running, not now. I know there's a switch beside the fuses and it still shows as DRLs should be on. I can't work out why they're only coming on when you switch sidelights on.

When our flexipipe went we opted for custom route to replace, Caltek Systems in Ayr supplied and fitted new flexi, centre res delete and new rear section, very pleased with the job done and how the wee car sounds.

Hi, our 2012 vrs is going in for water pump and aux belts replacement on Tuesday, I have the water pump and belts arriving today but wanted to know the coolant capacity for the mk2 vrs and to confirm its G13 we use now? Not losing coolant, just hearing squeak from belts, a tweet as such. Thanks

Just noticed you're in the Glasgow area, Simon Custom Exhausts in EK would do this for you, but you would be looking at a wait time as he's usually booked for months ahead, we didn't have that time to wait so followed another recommendation and went to Caltek in Ayr. Simons was I think 440 for custom system flexi back.

Not sure where you are based to point you to nearest custom exhaust place but any of them worth their salt will remove the old flexi and replace without any problem and for a fraction of the price you've been quoted. Ours went back in October, flexi was gone but not the cat. National tyres confirmed flexi was problem but they told me to go to custom place as back box also badly corroded. To replace system from Skoda was going to be over £1500. We went to Caltek systems in Ayr, half day job replaced flexi, centre section delete and new back box with staggered tail pipes, all stainless, for £640 all in. I know that's more expensive than some other places can do for. Sound is spot on. Short answer is to find reputable custom exhaust place in your area and have them do it.

Best wishes to your lad G, and hopefully you and yours are ok pal. We're in the 12 week isolation category so indoors, wee bus company I drive with has closed the transport side for time being, lord knows what will happen next.

My late father in law used to describe him with 4 words None of them flattering.

Sorry for the late intervention, I've been offline in all senses. Personally I would get shot of it unless I could get a reasonable priced repair/ replacement job done, not being cheeky but the cost of repair at dealer to replace both Mech and Clutches could be thought of as an uneconomical repair on a 9 year old car with nigh on 90k on clock, maybe worth around £3500 to £4k . Sad to say this to a fellow owner but sometimes it's best to be blunt. Cost 2 years ago for us at Main dealer, albeit it was those clowns at Parks, was £3200 all in, with the Mech coming in at £1149 plus vat plus fitting and the clutches coming in around £585 plus vat plus fitting. But those are dealer prices. As Mick says there is a fix available depending on the actual fault for a fraction of that cost, and I think LUK clutches can be picked up for around £300 rather than close to 6. But you would need someone who had the gear and idea to repair it, it's not a simple fix. Parks ultimately sent ours out to Alpine Transmissions in Blantyre, ostensibly to check the actual gearbox but in reality to finally repair it after 9 weeks off the road. Others around include Mackie in Glasgow, but I have no experience of their work so can't say if they would definitely go near a DSG. An A45 AMG would perhaps be better sitting on your drive than the ticking time bombs that these can sometimes be. Sorry to be so negative, but these cars are ageing and showing it, we still have ours and do love it, but my goodness it's knocked a hole in the bank.

I'm afraid I don't know how to upload photos but Roottoot is correct I have owned a 2017 Abarth 595 Turismo (165ps) since new, it is modena yellow so you can't miss it. The sound is fabulous, the driving experience always leaves me smiling and it is epic on some of the fine back roads we have around us, reminds me very much of the original mini I once owned. Simple but very effective. Not had an issue with it during ownership, will be selling very shortly due to change in circumstances, 14,000 miles only on clock and loved every one of them. Averages 37mpg but that makes me rare in the Abarth community, cheap to insure. Servicing at main dealers is expensive, first service was £140 but second was £335. Parts are very easy to come by, mine is completely standard but there are loads of upgrades available including for mine, the 165ps 2017 onwards are fitted with the same Garret turbo as the awesome Competizione version running 180ps as standard so remapping and tuning is readily available, companies like TMC Motorsport can supply almost anything. Mine came with garret turbo, koni shocks, brembo brakes and record monza exhaust, tyre size is identical to vRS believe it or not at 205/40/17 and they usually come standard with Pirelli P zero on them. Mine is good for 135 or thereabouts flat out but your backside will have caved in before then, it gets very twitchy in a straight line around 115. That's why its better on the back roads, you don't need to be gunning it to feel it gripping well. If it's performance you seek it's the Competizione you want, if its comfort its the Turismo, although I should say the driving position is not to everyone's taste as you feel on the car rather than in, sitting high. If it's anything to go by, my wife and my daughter love the car.

You have no idea how much hassle has just been saved, I can assure you dealing with SUK would have drained you completely. They are, for want of a better term, a shower of b*******. And I say that after experiences in obtaining new engine, then a battle royal over a failed mechatronic unit and clutches, and then with my daughter's mk3 Fabia on the coolant/ water pump issue and now also DSG. Put simply, the build quality isn't there.

with our 2012 mk2 vRS the tailgate wouldnt open unless you held the boot open button down on the keyfob. We just put in a new keyfob battery in December and hey presto the tailgate once again opens as normal. no idea how that came to be but changing the keyfob battery did the trick.

As @Roottootemblowinootsoot mentioned my daughters mk3 Fabia 1.4tdi is also having a very similar problem with her 7sp DQ200 gearbox, with the latest code being the generic one for loss of contact with transmission control module. A Skoda Diagnostic technician on another forum has said from the outset that it would require a new gear selector mechanism, the likely cause being a microswitch has failed leaving the car believing it to be in gear when in fact it is stuck fast in P. It is also possible and perhaps likely that it could be down to a wiring problem. I would be eternally grateful if someone could find the part number for such a wiring loom as it may make a huge difference to my daughter. The technician mentioned as well that he had seen Tpi for this, when they come in under warranty dealerships swap out the gear selector unit rather than tinker about with looking for a broken wire or wires. Skoda UK want nowt to do with it as car out of warranty, a 2016 car with 28,000 miles on clock. With our vRS to be sold shortly, I can safely say I will never buy or recommend another Skoda in what time I am granted on this earth. We love our car, but the build quality isnt there and the aftersales as well as Customer Services are scandalous.

In the absence of Offski to put the usual barrage of questions your way..... Do you know much about the service history of the vehicle, including the most recent service that was carried out and are you able to advise what spark plugs you had fitted? Denso SKJ20 are the recommended choice of Offski. Do you know if the car has had any engine work carried out in the past? Many of these, even on low miles, had engines replaced or oil breather modifications carried out due to excessive oil consumption. If the consumption problem goes unchecked you will encounter serious problems with the piston rings leading to a loss of compression in one or more cylinders, leading to either a very expensive rebuild or expensive replacement of the engine. If work has been done there should be a note added in the back pages of the Service Schedule booklet. Do you have any warranty with the car? If so, you should take it back to the seller and ask them to put the problem right. in all likelihood they should carry out diagnostic test and see where that leads. Sadly it is not unknown for these cars to encounter spark plug problems as many threads on the forum will testify. Do you know if the car has had any service action work on the DSG? Again there would be a sticker in the tyre well in the boot should there have been work carried out. Some, but not all had work done to change synthetic oil to mineral oil. Do you know if the car has had the water pump changed? The supercharger clutch is part of the water pump and so it usually needs changed around 6 years old. Brake fluid should be changed after 3 years and then every 2 years thereafter. Try to run car on best superunleaded you have access to, many run on Tesco Momentum 99 Ron, others prefer the Shell Superunleaded.

That's actually a better number left than I thought it would be to be honest.

Skoda UK deemed our consumption level of a litre of oil per 700 miles to be poor enough it warranted them supplying and fitting a new engine back in 2014. New engine zero consumption.

Tim, can I ask who came forward with the goodwill gesture? Was it the selling dealer or Skoda UK?

Just to update on my daughter's car. Pleased to report that the car is now fixed, with help in obtaining new genuine parts and coolant from Techie and Mike at parts@briskoda. Local lad done the job, total cost including the new parts was £305. I've kept receipts and going back to Skoda UK.

Unfortunately by the time you have the flashing white spanner, a software update will not resolve the issue on its own. The spanner is flashing to advise of a problem with the DSG, most likely the mechatronic unit and most likely the internal pump within that unit. The answer lies in repairing or replacing the busted part of the DSG I'm afraid. Once that is done, the dealer will install basic settings and update any software as required. Wishing you luck in getting your car fixed.

Unfortunately the flashing white spanner is alerting you to a DSG problem, a proper diagnostic including physical inspection will confirm this. With ours it was to notify us the internal pump within the mechatronic unit was leaking fluid and losing pressure, eventually leading to a car that was immovable as it couldn't select gears due to complete lack of pressure to operate clutches. Absolutely not I'm afraid, 2 main dealers told us prior to ours completely failing. Service interval reminders are different symbol from this and in slightly different area of dash, usually with sound. Skoda UK know what the flashing white spanner is but neglected to inform all of their dealerships as to the facts, resulting in people like me being given duff information and a monster bill. I won't tell tale again as it takes too long and still gets my dander up. Bottom line is the advice I was given by 2 main dealerships was erroneous and contributed towards the worsening of our problem, leading to an eventual failure of mechatronic unit and then clutch packs also being required, with a bill of £3200 to swallow into the bargain. The important thing for the OP to do here is to test, not guess. Book a diagnostic including physical inspection with a main dealer, preferably one that knows and understands the DQ200 box. My hope for you is that it turns out to be selector forks or clutch packs as those are cheaper options. Part prices last year, in UK, were £1149 plus vat for mechatronic unit, £585 plus vat for clutch packs. I wish you well.

I'm reckoning the drivers door on ours has dropped slightly as well, for a long time I've been bleating on about water ingress (in fact I spoke to Roottoot about this years ago when he visited) and I've been blaming the door seals thinking they were busted. On looking this morning the drivers door doesn't sit flush with the rear door, the top left of drivers door seems to sit slightly away from pillar looking as if it's left a gap. So it may require the trolley jack and block technique to try and adjust to see if it helps, then new seals anyway. It's that bad that your right shoulder/ arm gets a soaking if it's raining heavily and you would be a brave man to use a jet wash.

I haven't used this garage personally so can't vouch for them either way, I do know they've been on the go for a long while now though. We've been using Ingram Skoda down in Ayr is using a main Skoda dealer, so far so good with them. Locally we use a lad in Lesmahagow, father and son business, he does most stuff for us. Closer to Glasgow I know that many in a car club use Alan Fingland at FNK Autoworks, based I believe in East Kilbride. Hope this helps.

The plugs I've been using for years are Denso SKJ20 rather than the VK ones, so far without any issues touch wood. I'm tinkering with using the NGK ones Michael uses next time around.

Hi, I'm sure one of the techie minded people will be around to provide a better insight than I can, I can only relate to you my own experience when our Mechatronic unit failed. Our unit failed because of a fluid leak from the internal pump within the mechatronic unit, eventually reducing the pressure required to operate the system properly all the way down to zero bar instead of the 40 bar required. Fitting a second hand mechatronic unit can bring problems of its own judging by other owners experiences. A replacement mech comes from the factory partially coded to your vehicle using the chassis number, once installed the techie then has to install basic settings and any software updates, then a test drive before any final tweaks are added. The internal pump produces the required pressure to enable the clutches to be depressed in much the same way as it would on a manual car, without the pressure it will not be able to function. Your original mech may have had the internal pump fail which is why you are seeing the code you are. Sorry if this doesn't help.

good news. Ours doesn't open other than press and hold button on key fob, told it needed switch changing. But, as ever with these its not that simple. Reverse lights not working so i would place some money on wiring problem. We changed front door loom, I'm thinking rear electrics next. Wheels refurbished tomorrow. Feels never ending.