ionutai

I am aiming also for this as an alternate end, but, unfortunately I cannot move the guiding rail. I have already removed the motor, and taped tight the current holes, but it is not pretty. I am looking for at least a way to move the rail into the closed position.

Hello all, I have quite a frustrating issue on my Yeti (2010). The sunroof was a bit neglected and wanted to give a bit a of love and clean it. Unfortunately the one of sunroof guides got stuck half open, and in the process made the sunroof motor eat through the plastic gear inside it. I would prefer not to disassemble half the car to take the entire frame off (and obviously not to buy another one) if it can be fixed otherwise. Now, I am faced with the current situation: 1. The left rail (1K9898738A) is stuck in the position where it is angled (starting to raise the glass to open), so quite inaccessible, and cannot move it back and forth more than 2mm. My thought is that the guiding cable (1K9898870) is stuck. Rain can now freely enter the car 😥. I have removed the motor, the front glass, I have sprayed anti-seize on it (and left it to work), and applied a small amount of force to the guide rail in an attempt to unblock it, but it just does not move. I am considering all sorts of ideas, like breaking the motor plate (1) to expose more of the cable to get it unstuck or to drill through the cable guide channel, however I could not find any reference or place that sells this part, so I do not want to generate more cost for myself. 2. The sunroof motor (8R0959591A) is working, but I have not been able to find a replacement gear, and I would prefer not to buy another one, considering that the gear is just a small piece of plastic. Every part is very expensive (from cable to motor to frame) quickly going to hundreds and I would prefer to spare the cost if possible. Any idea to get this solved is welcomed. Thanks.

I come back on this topic with the cause of my issue. 1. Metallic noise. The initial diagnostic was also clutch assembly (with a 2k estimated repair cost). But, considering the clutch was recently replaced that was ruled out. Upon further investigation it was narrowed down to the gearbox cover (03L103647F) that was replaced. After that the sound was gone. Parts are cheap (~30EUR) but a lot of work to replace it as you have to take off the gearbox, especially on a 4x4. Final bill was 550EUR for repair. 2. Turbocharger boost control error. Resulted in a loss of power. This was narrowed down to the turbo actuator (03L198716A). Total repair cost 320EUR. 3. For the rattle that was mentioned, I also had it, and indeed it was coming from the air filter box. In my case, I narrowed it down to the drainage hose that comes out of the air filter box. It was touching the metallic part of the front bumper. Re positioned it and the rattle is gone.

Your magic is strong . Thanks

Yes please.

In a new development, last evening I got an engine fault, MIL Light on, it turned out to be intermittent ... it went away this morning. 009571 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit P2563 - 000 - Implausible Signal Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 01100000 Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 2 Reset counter: 255 Mileage: 128165 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2016.05.09 Time: 21:48:10 Adds any value to identifying the culprit?

This thought has never crossed my mind :p. I see you also changed stuff on your Yeti ... so, you know that something is possible and you do it, without buying a new car (which is not something you do everyday). What if someone told you that adding a phone holder is a no-no in that location because the car was not built with it, end of story. But if someone comes and says that it has not been tested for safety (sharp edges etc.) and weight ration distribution change in the dash is not calculated, magnetic field generation (from the phone) may be interfering with the airbag module and possible loss of electricity can cause it to fail or to misfire in your face? ... Isn't this a better answer, helping you decide? (it's all about risk appetite) In my case, there is no "Yes it's possible" or "No it's not possible" because apparently nobody thought about this. What I do get a lot of though "Blasphemy, burn the witch ... " and related. I guess what Falmouthboy said is pretty much the reason why. I was really hoping for someone to come forth and provide facts (as mentioned before) on why is it "No" or "Maybe" or "Yes". A reply in the lines of "Start by looking at workshop manual number ... " would of been nice. Thanks Parkesie for your reply. It's something i considered also. I don't intend to reinvent the wheel. I will try to find more info.

I know what you say, bad service is a plague that doesn't seem to disappear, I've been there, done that, got the t-shirt. For this particular case, I am currently dismissing the belt because I can identify that I have pretty much all the symptoms presented in that article I linked before. Obviously if it's a lose pulley I would go for that instead of a possible fuel pump + camshaft change . I will let you know what the Skoda garage says.

Kind of jumpy this police ... is it US police? Now, in terms of topic ... my reasoning was: - it's not really general, because it's about a Yeti (ok, you could argue that it would apply to any car) but in my case it about the Yeti - I own a Yeti so should be in the owners forum - it's not really a project because I didn't decide to do anything, I have just thoughts and questions But hey ... I'm new here ... so, if some mods can help a newbie out ... if it's off topic please put it in the right section. Still looking for answers for my questions

I think you guys kind of misunderstood my position here. I am not in this business. I am just curious about this (so to answer your question, there is no previous build so there are no pictures). I am really really surprised, that, instead of providing useful information I only get bad comments. I was the one posing the questions ... See ... i'm the OP. If I had the info do you think I would of asked the questions? This whole pose of I'm smart, you're not and I know and you don't is really pointless. If you have info, please share it. So, going back to my previous, if you want to contribute, please share your knowledge, if not, that's fine also ... but I'm really not after a flame war here. To clarify, I suspect the fact that the dash contributes to the safety of the passengers (again, not talking about airbags here). But I cannot find any info on how the layout impacts this. I can guess that there are some forces being distributed there ... but how, where, why ... I don't know ... so I'm asking.

Can you honestly state that you had 4 adults (with height above 1.8m tall) sitting comfortably for a long ride in a Yeti? I can totally agree that this is the case for the Superb, but I'm sorry I cannot agree for the Yeti. I am sure that the engineers (not designers) thought about the safety and ergonomics but no implementation is perfect (as you can see all manufacturers change interior from one generation to the next). Don't get me wrong, I really appreciate your input but I think you're missing the point of the topic. The idea is to discuss about the possibilities and not to decline all ideas. Consider it more of a brainstorming session where ideas are evaluated before being dismissed. So, besides the airbag and the position of the airbag in the dash (which by the way is greatly relative to the height of the person sitting in the seat and the distance from the seat to the dash which is variable), do you have any supporting facts (documentation) on the way the dash contributes to the passenger safety? Thanks

The sound does increase in speed when pressing down on the pedal. The belt has been recently changed so I don't suspect that. Pushing down on the clutch does make the sound change pitch (I have another noise on the clutch but that is for another topic). Regarding your cam supposition ... i found this article here that kind of fits the description of my symptoms. I don't personally have the capabilities to do the stuff described in the guide so most likely the Skoda garage will be the ones doing the job. I don't know if they will be willing to change the cam follower or replace the entire fuel pump.

The discussion here is that is not just the space for the passenger in front. Consider the fact that the position of the forward seat reflects the space of the rear seat. If you have an adult, or a baby chair on the rear seat (eg. ) you are obliged to move the passenger seat forward. As far as I remember, according to the safety specs you have to be a minimum of 30cm away for the airbag for the passenger (and 15-20cm for the driver). This is why I opened the discussion regarding a custom interior (moving the seat forward implies shrinking the dash). This was one of the topic questions. Do you have any support to your arguments? Is there any spec that mentions in which way the dash contributes to the safety of the passengers? (I am talking here strictly about the dash, not the airbags driver,knee, passenger etc).

Was this supposed to be a question? If yes, I would say that the sound is there when the car is cool also, but it gets more and more audible as the car gets hotter.

I am aware of that. In the context of the armrest I can use it, but for a smaller person (eg. my wife) it's completely useless. In the topmost and forward position she doesn't even touch it. Regarding the centre tunnel, I really dislike the fact that the room at the pedals is so small. Also, in the case of the yeti (at least for the passenger seat) you cannot slide it all the way forward as it stops hitting the tunnel first. If you look at it, the glove box is not really useful. How many of you use it for the gloves, it's not lockable and not much can fit in it anyway. You can use the under-seat drawer for that ... If you remove the glovebox you get more than 10cm of leg room ... I consider this a much better option.

The idea is not to destroy the current dash but to build something custom. If a trade situation will be the case (although I doubt it), a refit of the original should not be an issue.

Hey guys, I've been thinking for a while now to modify the interior of my cars. Here I am thinking about dash and armrest in particular. I couldn't find any relevant information, so I decided to post my questions here. First off: Is the dash (with the underlying metallic structure) or the middle tunnel contributing in any way to the cabin rigidity or providing extra impact protection? Second: Is the dash material (foam material) available to purchase for other people other than the OEMs? Third: Is there a reason why some seats have integrated arm rest (eg. Transporter) and some not (most small cars, sedans, hatchbacks etc.). Eg. for Yeti, the centre armrest is really useless for a short person that needs to raise and shift the seat forward. Let's start with these. Hopefully not end also .

In the video the drops under the car are from the airco condenser ... there is no oil leak. Indeed the engine is noisy, much noisier than my other Yeti (identical but from 2012). Donno if it is from the exhaust ... my money is that the problem is somewhere between the clutch and the gearbox.

I looked and my engine compartment has different layout. The area there is occupied by the brake pump so no cable there. So, unfortunately that is not the cause. Any other ideas?

Found the topic ... here ... in my opinion the sound comes from a lower source. If you check my video the noise is much louder under the car than on top of the engine. I will investigate and come back on this one.

Hey guys, I searched the forums, but couldn't identify something similar (maybe there is something but I didn't find it). If there is something admins please move my topic thanks. So, the story is: I have a Yeti Experience 4x4 140bhp 2010 (made in 2009), European model (steering on the left, car driven on the right). It has about 100k miles on the clock. The water pump and distribution have been changed about 10k miles ago. Clutch kit has been changed about 15k miles ago. Oil has been changed and levels are normal. Last weekend I took if for a drive (about 100miles trip). Outside temperature was about 20degrees Celsius. I noticed a wierd noise somewhere half way into my trip. I would describe it as a metallic sound coming from somewhere from the left side of the engine (drivers side). I turned off the airco but the noise is still there. The noise goes away when the car is cool, but it reappears when the car is hot. I've uploaded a small video with this here (the video is not really expressing the intensity of the sound, the metallic nature is really much clearer in reality). I will schedule a diagnostic with the repair shop. In the mean time do you have any ideas? Thanks

Thanks for the reply. 1. For the reverse, can you tell me where is this setting for the volume dipping ? Maybe it is related to the reverse control module? 2.For the cable direction. I actually removed about half the car to run the cables. Attached is how my car looked like. It is actually quite difficult to get to the cables. I had to remove all the interior of the back of the car, removed the headliner (needed some water leak fixing), removed the back seats, removed the back seats supports (special key needed), pillar trims for all pillars. I've undone all the wiring harnesses on the left side of the car and went down to the front. I cannot run the cables through the headlined due to the panoramic sun roof and the courtin airbags. At the moment I think this is not good, although according to some pics I've seen in ELSA this is the direction (left hand side). I need to figure out which way (left side or right side) do the cables run, mainly for the GSM so I need confirmation before loosing a day of work .

If I manage to do the swap I am going to sell it . I am currently investigating if there are any particular steps, if I need to do any recoding, replace the steering wheel loom (maybe different connections etc) or replace some other module. I read somewhere that there might be an issue with the cable, I don't know if there is any difference between the 1K0971584 / 3T0971584 and the 5JA971584. Someone told me that I might need to recode the airbag. I need answers .

Hey, Was your swap a direct plug and play or did you need to recode something (eg. the airbag)? I currently have a 2010 Yeti with buttons and I would like to swap it for the newer model. I am currently investigating if there are any particular steps, if I need to do any recoding, replace the steering wheel loom (maybe different connections etc) or replace some other module. Can you tell me if there is any difference between the 1K0971584 / 3T0971584 and the 5JA971584? Thanks.

Another thing I noticed with the Columbus (as opposed to the Bolero) is that it completely mutes the audio when reversing (while the Bolero just turned the volume down) and there is no option to turn the music back on (on the Bolero you have a speaker icon on screen). Anyone know if I can have Columbus act like the Bolero? Thanks