danm

Predictably it wasn't the flexi hose... joy took it to Stealers - they put on ramp and said there's a funny light clicking noise when that wheel is spun - poss bearing but no play in wheel, poss ABS module/rotor... we'd need to strip it down to see what's what £200 and a weeks wait for them to get around to it just to pull wheel and calipers and hub off!! at least the strong indication was that the issue is based in that corner rather than ABS/Master cylinder So thanked them for their trouble, and will be going to get that done at different higher-skilled Indy on Tues, I can't say I would buy another VAG or Superb, it's been the most unreliable car I've owned out of many, and its mostly done motorway miles from 20k and been religiously maintained to date (83k), its needed a DMF, 2 new injectors, had a failed window winder cable, a very rattly dash + very noisy aircon + now this issue.

Delphi OEM grade pads and discs apparently flexis degrade inside, (like a furred artery) this can cause them to resist the flow of fluid back causing the piston to stick - so I read.

Hi, garage reported still a 'bit hot' after their road test, we discussed and I agreed to run for a day or too more. driven about 8 miles back from garage after handbrake cables fitted and adjuster left slack - disc too hot to touch, other discs cold/warm to touch

I drive a 2010 2.0 CR diesel Superb New quality discs and pads all round 8 months/10000miles ago this week noticed the rear disc getting hot, and smelling of cooked brakes, took to my indy - they suspected a sticky piston, so they swapped out the caliper, this did not fix the issue! next suspect was the handbrake cable sticking - swapped them both out also - still the same - not fixed - My mechanic now thinks the next suspect is the flexi hose, meantime... I did a Servo check by pumping the pedal till hard, and then switching on ign. and waiting for the vacuum - plenty of vacuum assist, Has Anyone had similar issues or got any advice? - I'm just praying its not the master cylinder or ABS related... My plan now is to swap the flexi-hose, test drive, if no fix then pop out the ABS fuse and test drive to see if that makes a difference. After that I guess its the master cylinder. thanks

So quick update to put this one to bed, the fuel filter had been so damaged by an inept mechanic, that I think there was air getting drawn in between the lid and can making the whining noise. sourced a replacement housing and had it properly fitted and no more noise. BTW the housing is £208 from Skoda! but I found a brand new one from a German ebay seller called Mteile. arrived in three days for £78.

Hi All, I've been having a world of fun recently with my 60k 2010 2.0 140 CR diesel! in the last 2 months it has had: new clutch and DMF timing belt, water pump and aux belt 2 new injectors Since the recent work a high pitched whine has become apparent about 80% of the time, it sounds like alternator interference on a car radio used to. It sounds as though its coming from the engine bay. it doesn't do it when cold, but kicks in as the car starts to warm up. I happens in or out of gear, clutch in or out, car moving or not moving, and although the pitch changes a little on revs, it isn't much affected by revs. the fuel pump under the rear seat is running quietly. although I don't think its connected I have a slight diesel leak form the fuel filter area which I am trying to track down, perhaps diesel is getting onto the aux belt and affecting it. I suspect an pulley bearing / tensioner most... Any wise words from anyone?

The kit shown by Hozz is for a MK1 I believe

No kidding! I miss my old MK1 Octavia's reliability tho' 125k on standard services, a new wiper motor and a temp sensor.

2 new injectors fitted - so far no nasty noises/behaviour after 3 cold starts Thomas fuel injection services - Blyth, Northumberland. seemed to know their stuff, nice guys, final bill £700 for diagnosis, removed all 4 injectors, cleaned and tested, then supply and fit 2 recon by Bosch injectors. Get a proper diagnosis, and make sure it is done when the car is being driven - not a single fault showed up on 4 diagnostics, despite the car kangarooing up the road.

2 new injectors fitted - so far no nasty noises/behaviour after 3 cold starts Thomas fuel injection services - Blyth, Northumberland. seemed to know their stuff, nice guys, final bill £700 for diagnosis, removed all 4 injectors, cleaned and tested, then supply and fit 2 recon by Bosch injectors.

Wasn't that... Went to a specialist injection garage... and had my car checked - the diagnostics had no fault codes but showed 2 cylinders poorly performing when cold - when removed and tested 2 injectors were a fail on their Bosch testbench kit - not out by loads, but not coding to the ECU properly, so having 2 new ones fitted £185 ea. + diagnostics + testing costs - ouch, Superb 2010 2.0 CR 140 Bosch injectors. Dear God let this be the last cost for this effing problem. will report back if its fixed it.

Had my car checked 2 injectors were a fail - not out by loads, but not coding to the ECU properly, having 2 new ones fitted £185 ea. + diagnostics + testing costs - ouch, Superb 2010 2.0 CR 140 Bosch injectors.

It would have been done 8k ago, My mechanic is going to check the engine temp sensors next, although no error codes, VW temp sensors are a bit iffy, there is a green plastic (revised version) available for the one in my car, and he thinks it may be mis-fueling due to dodgy info from the sensor.

Hi this sounds exactly like my problem, I also found it worse driving up hill, and it stopped if I took it off load by dipping the clutch, how much was the injector job in the end? ta d

Not a happy bunny, Clutch and DMF replaced... guess what, still: judders/rattles/won't pull away cleanly as though fuel starved, symptoms disappear when clutch is depressed (much like me currently) this all lasts till its up to temperature/2miles driving. worse when driving up hill. happens in any gear typically between 1700-2250 revs. Only silver lining is DMF job was cheap at £630 LUK parts and labour, and my mechanic said the DMF was 'shagged' so not the culprit but in need of replacement anyway. I am starting to think sensors or injectors again, but the diagnostic found nothing a few months back when I tried it, perhaps I need to find a diagnostics specialist who can drive it form cold plugged into a diag.computer. Any thoughts chaps?