danm

Predictably it wasn't the flexi hose... joy took it to Stealers - they put on ramp and said there's a funny light clicking noise when that wheel is spun - poss bearing but no play in wheel, poss ABS module/rotor... we'd need to strip it down to see what's what £200 and a weeks wait for them to get around to it just to pull wheel and calipers and hub off!! at least the strong indication was that the issue is based in that corner rather than ABS/Master cylinder So thanked them for their trouble, and will be going to get that done at different higher-skilled Indy on Tues, I can't say I would buy another VAG or Superb, it's been the most unreliable car I've owned out of many, and its mostly done motorway miles from 20k and been religiously maintained to date (83k), its needed a DMF, 2 new injectors, had a failed window winder cable, a very rattly dash + very noisy aircon + now this issue.

Delphi OEM grade pads and discs apparently flexis degrade inside, (like a furred artery) this can cause them to resist the flow of fluid back causing the piston to stick - so I read.

Hi, garage reported still a 'bit hot' after their road test, we discussed and I agreed to run for a day or too more. driven about 8 miles back from garage after handbrake cables fitted and adjuster left slack - disc too hot to touch, other discs cold/warm to touch

I drive a 2010 2.0 CR diesel Superb New quality discs and pads all round 8 months/10000miles ago this week noticed the rear disc getting hot, and smelling of cooked brakes, took to my indy - they suspected a sticky piston, so they swapped out the caliper, this did not fix the issue! next suspect was the handbrake cable sticking - swapped them both out also - still the same - not fixed - My mechanic now thinks the next suspect is the flexi hose, meantime... I did a Servo check by pumping the pedal till hard, and then switching on ign. and waiting for the vacuum - plenty of vacuum assist, Has Anyone had similar issues or got any advice? - I'm just praying its not the master cylinder or ABS related... My plan now is to swap the flexi-hose, test drive, if no fix then pop out the ABS fuse and test drive to see if that makes a difference. After that I guess its the master cylinder. thanks

So quick update to put this one to bed, the fuel filter had been so damaged by an inept mechanic, that I think there was air getting drawn in between the lid and can making the whining noise. sourced a replacement housing and had it properly fitted and no more noise. BTW the housing is £208 from Skoda! but I found a brand new one from a German ebay seller called Mteile. arrived in three days for £78.

Hi All, I've been having a world of fun recently with my 60k 2010 2.0 140 CR diesel! in the last 2 months it has had: new clutch and DMF timing belt, water pump and aux belt 2 new injectors Since the recent work a high pitched whine has become apparent about 80% of the time, it sounds like alternator interference on a car radio used to. It sounds as though its coming from the engine bay. it doesn't do it when cold, but kicks in as the car starts to warm up. I happens in or out of gear, clutch in or out, car moving or not moving, and although the pitch changes a little on revs, it isn't much affected by revs. the fuel pump under the rear seat is running quietly. although I don't think its connected I have a slight diesel leak form the fuel filter area which I am trying to track down, perhaps diesel is getting onto the aux belt and affecting it. I suspect an pulley bearing / tensioner most... Any wise words from anyone?

The kit shown by Hozz is for a MK1 I believe

No kidding! I miss my old MK1 Octavia's reliability tho' 125k on standard services, a new wiper motor and a temp sensor.

2 new injectors fitted - so far no nasty noises/behaviour after 3 cold starts Thomas fuel injection services - Blyth, Northumberland. seemed to know their stuff, nice guys, final bill £700 for diagnosis, removed all 4 injectors, cleaned and tested, then supply and fit 2 recon by Bosch injectors. Get a proper diagnosis, and make sure it is done when the car is being driven - not a single fault showed up on 4 diagnostics, despite the car kangarooing up the road.

2 new injectors fitted - so far no nasty noises/behaviour after 3 cold starts Thomas fuel injection services - Blyth, Northumberland. seemed to know their stuff, nice guys, final bill £700 for diagnosis, removed all 4 injectors, cleaned and tested, then supply and fit 2 recon by Bosch injectors.

Wasn't that... Went to a specialist injection garage... and had my car checked - the diagnostics had no fault codes but showed 2 cylinders poorly performing when cold - when removed and tested 2 injectors were a fail on their Bosch testbench kit - not out by loads, but not coding to the ECU properly, so having 2 new ones fitted £185 ea. + diagnostics + testing costs - ouch, Superb 2010 2.0 CR 140 Bosch injectors. Dear God let this be the last cost for this effing problem. will report back if its fixed it.

Had my car checked 2 injectors were a fail - not out by loads, but not coding to the ECU properly, having 2 new ones fitted £185 ea. + diagnostics + testing costs - ouch, Superb 2010 2.0 CR 140 Bosch injectors.

It would have been done 8k ago, My mechanic is going to check the engine temp sensors next, although no error codes, VW temp sensors are a bit iffy, there is a green plastic (revised version) available for the one in my car, and he thinks it may be mis-fueling due to dodgy info from the sensor.

Hi this sounds exactly like my problem, I also found it worse driving up hill, and it stopped if I took it off load by dipping the clutch, how much was the injector job in the end? ta d

Not a happy bunny, Clutch and DMF replaced... guess what, still: judders/rattles/won't pull away cleanly as though fuel starved, symptoms disappear when clutch is depressed (much like me currently) this all lasts till its up to temperature/2miles driving. worse when driving up hill. happens in any gear typically between 1700-2250 revs. Only silver lining is DMF job was cheap at £630 LUK parts and labour, and my mechanic said the DMF was 'shagged' so not the culprit but in need of replacement anyway. I am starting to think sensors or injectors again, but the diagnostic found nothing a few months back when I tried it, perhaps I need to find a diagnostics specialist who can drive it form cold plugged into a diag.computer. Any thoughts chaps?

My Superb is in tomorrow for DMF and Clutch, so will report if this is a fix. Went for the LUK kit as it seems the best quality available - though list price is expensive.

Job done at last, but hardly straight forward Here is what I learnt: 1) Before you start, check the internet for a mobile specialist near you, I found one in my area - Newcastle quoting an average of £50 to come out and recon your regulator at home/work if you can find someone like this don't even contemplate taking the door card off. I had no idea this service existed, it also tells you a lot about the complexity of doing it yourself 2) On some VW group cars the side airbag sensor works by sensing the change in pressure in the air volume inside the door in the case of an impact - so if you don't seal back up the holes as you found them then it may compromise this sensor. My local Skoda dealer said they don't sell the grey foam discs that you will have to destroy to get to the bolts you need. but he said as long as you block the holes afterwards then its ok, I used gaffa tape for now, and will later replace this with 3m sticky discs from ebay for £2. 3) At time of writing, there is no repair kit I can find for sale - so you need to know you can get the replacement bits - cables in my case or get them re-cabled see point 1! The whole job requires a reasonable level of DIY skill and is slow and fiddly. you are not likely to get it all done in one evening. (specially if its sodding dark, cold and wet as it was on my drive) I ended up buying a full second hand mech for £25 on Ebay, not sure how long the cables will last mind. check my earlier post - I did find a guy who will re-cable the assembly for you. 4) Be prepared for the misery of the VW group plastic roll pins / straddle dowels which hold the window onto the clips - google VW straddle dowel and you will find a lot of ways of doing it - I wound them out on a length of M5 studding braced against the door through a large washer. then on re-assembly I very, very, carefully tapped them back home using a drift and a soft hammer. 5) While you are fixing it if the window has dropped, a thin bit of flexible metal can be bent into a hook and dropped down the side of the window, hooked under the bottom edge and then bent back over the sill to keep the window secure while you sort all this out. otherwise you may find no option but to go to the dealer and have a wallet-ectomy. The regulator and cables assembly is £130, so I reckon its got to be >£200 for them to fix it. 6) Buy spare dowels in case they get lost in the door, (dealer) foam discs, and replacement door card clips - (Ebay), before you start So it can be done by a non-mechanic, but if you can afford it get someone else to take the hit. sorry I didn't take photos but it was dark and I was sick of it. good luck d

Hi Keith I am bluffing my way through this but... I can get you so far: pop off the panel containing your window switches gently using a wide flat bladed screwdriver - gives access to two screws undo the 2 screws along bottom edge of the door card pop out the speaker tweeter panel and undo screw there prise off the door card - caution in this weather you will likely break the plastic fittings - about 10 of them along the way disconnect the various electrical connectors as needed ---here's where it went astray for me look for the two holes in the painted door panel through which you can see the black rails, have some gaffa tape to hand to prevent the window from dropping suddenly and maybe breaking, you now need to lower/push the window down whilst looking through the holes - I expected to see two bolts clamping the sliders to the window come into view, which you loosen - but it looks more like there are two circular plastic clips securing it to the window. this is where I got stuck! So I left these for later and proceeded to : unscrew the bolts holding the white lump to the grey metal panel and prise it off push through the 3 white posts to free the regulator on the other side. unclip the black control unit unbolt the grey metal panel and withdraw it - giving access into the door cavity. my regulator was jammed with the broken cable so I had to do the last 4 steps before I could push the window down enough to see the sliders on the rails. Caution if you get this far through the job, there maybe nothing holding your window up - so consider if you can keep it somewhere secure while you figure the rest out. I used a few bits of metal strip bent into shape hooked under the window and over the door lip to keep the window up, while I wait for advice and parts! best of British - got to be better than paying the dealer I 'm guessing £200 to do it will update as I go. Dan.

Hi All, My drivers side front window tried to open against the frost, and failed by snapping the cable and winding it around the drum, but I can't figure out how to remove the old one I have the metal plate and the regulator out, but the guide rails are still in and attached to the window, I need to know how to detach the window clamps from the window... Any help very gratefully received. I couldn't find a repair kit for a mk2 anywhere, and ended up buying a used full mech+motor - £25 as they are £130 from the dealer just for the regulator asm. If it helps anyone this guy on ebay offers a re-cabling service: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200672062410?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Dan.

Hi All, thanks for all the advice, its still dying slowly, but not consistently enough to get a garage to look, am going to see if my friendly independent will keep it for a couple of days again and try it from cold. will keep you all posted I have a mate in the parts trade he is quoting £350 for a quality DMF and Clutch kit + I am expecting the thick end of 600 labour, and to cap it all the sodding window regulator cable has just snapped, the car has only done 60k mostly motorway, this is not the reliability I was hoping for! I will report back on how this one fetches up. D.

Thank you all for responding, The nasty marbles noise is and only for a couple of minutes whilst car warms up and only every other day or so, I think I will just drive gently and locally until it is frequent enough to take back into the garage for a check up, I did leave it with a good garage for a couple of days and of course it didn't mis-behave... intermittent faults... you gotta love them. Does anyone know of anything I can do/test that is likely to show it up? ta

Thanks, That's for the advice, What's the opinion on waiting for a DMF to be bad enough to be reliably diagnosed/changed versus waiting too long and it breaking, Is 'breaking' a disaster or just a recovery truck to a garage? Do they get progressively worse, or just blow up suddenly? Thanks again

Hi All, I havn't posted on here for years, so hope I am in the right forum/topic; I have a Superb II 2.0 CR, 6 speed diesel, with 56k on it. I have owned it since 22k. It has an intermittent fault I would love to hear some advice from people on... when starting from cold and pulling away it makes a loud rattle (marbles in a washing machine) and is very hesitant to pull away, the more gentle with the powe rthe less likely to happen, If I dip the clutch then the noise stops immediately. It stops after about 5 mins/2 miles or once the engine is up to temperature. Its mostly evident in second or third at around 2-3k revs. Of course it doesn't do it consistently enough for me to get it to happen in front of a dealer, this has been going on for 2 months 3kmiles. I did get an engine diagnostic which was all-clear I did speak to a good indy garage, they thought perhaps DMF and apparently the associated lumpy running could be due to the speed sensor which runs on the flywheel?? Many, many thanks for any useful help, as this is ruining the ownership of an otherwise great car for me.