asteconn
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Posts posted by asteconn
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No idea, how do I check?
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Hello all,
My 2003 Mk1 ASV (110 Diesel) failed its MOT last week on a binding rear brake. I've just spent today fitting a new rotor, new calliper and new pads to that wheel (other side will happen shortly). After bleeding, the brakes seem to still be binding.
When removing the old rather mangled pads, one of them had a lot of difficulty coming out; and when I put the new pad in in the same place, it needed tapping in with the tire iron. This suggests to me that the calliper carrier is bent out of shape or otherwise grabbing onto the brake-pad and not letting it retract with the calliper. Is this likely to be the cause of the binding happening with the new components, as this is the only part of that assembly that I didn't renew? Or are there other troubleshooting steps I should take?
This is the first time I've attempted any brake work, so I may be making newbie errors. Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Hello all,
My Airconditioning has packed in. Annoyingly I'm in Germany presently, and will probably have to deal with the drive home with no aircon.
Anyway, I hooked up a VAGCOM and have gotten the fault codes 00792 and 01206 on the aircon part. Fuse had gone, so I replaced that and tested again, although no luck.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00792
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01206
Done a little googling, tested for power at the compressor, reading 12V. The compressor itself is fairly new, I had it installed around July 2016 when the original packed in.
I understand that my next port of call to test would be the pressure sensor.
How do I go about testing that, and what other troubleshooting steps should I take?
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On 21/02/2017 at 07:41, AdamCF said:
Hey guys, little update.
Replaced the CTS and MAF as that's what showed up on vag com as being faulty and the car appears to be driving a lot better.
Will do a brim to brim test in good time, what average mpg should I expect around town and motorway from the 110 asv?
Cheers
Depends entirely on how hard and fast you drive it. If you take it steady you should be able to hit some astonishingly high numbers.
Cruising at 90kph (the same speed that lorries are limited to), My ASV Elegance hit 73.6 mpg average on my roadtrip to Norway on the Netherlands to Denmark leg. That entire trip I averaged 65 mpg.
Cruising at about 100kph / 60mph in lane 1 of your average British motorway (M40 and M5 for me) will net you low to mid 60s, depending on traffic. The key is keeping a constant speed, keeping changes in speed as gradual as possible.
Driving the B4011 from Bicester to Thame I get low to mid 50s, again depending on how heavy my right foot is. -
On 21/02/2017 at 11:44, Phil-E said:
Yeah very easy to get to.
I took mine off on my old Seat Cordoba and cleaned it inside and out. There was a lot of crud built up on the outside that meant no air was flowing through.
What did you use to clean it?
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On 08/02/2017 at 16:19, KenONeill said:
Side Mounted InterCooler - The reason the pipes from turbo to inlet manifold go down to the front right corner of the engine bay and back.
How easy are those things to remove, or just drain? I've only ever looked that direction once whilst replacing my MAP sensor.
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SMIC?
Yeah, with my car's current form I was worried the turbo was on its way out, or something similar. -
Yeah, taking this to a garage. Booked in for Friday. I don't have the tools to do this properly, and to be fair, the wheels are pretty important.
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Just had the left-hand-side front wheel up: there is millimetre or so of play at the wheel edge when giving it a wobble.
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Octavia Mk1, ASV 110 TDi.
I was checking over the car for boost leaks a couple of days ago. After taking a couple of bits of pipe off and a sensor, all internal surfaces had an oil coating. Still damp, too. Should I be concerned?
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Getting access to both the motor and the linkage is fairly easy. I had the linkage go on my old Mk1, meant I could only have one windscreen wiper working. Very unhelpful. Replacing either is pretty easy.
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Hello all,
My ASV engined Octavia has developed itself a worrisome new noise: It's a noise I've never heard before on any of the cars I've owned, so would like to fill in the gaps in my knowledge.
It's a droning noise that started yesterday, has now become rather loud, that increases in pitch as speed increases. It is independent of engine speed, dipping the clutch has no affect on it. Its character changes when steering, and turning right adds a noticeable pulsing to the noise. I had it suggested to me that it sounds a lot like off-road tires on tarmac.
Looking at things on line, I've come across the possibilities of it being the tires, CV joints, wheel bearings, or power steering. I've tried swapping over the right-hand-side tires front and rear, but it has had no affect.
Here's a video from the dashcam - the noise is pretty blatant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rutiew8sQBs
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There seem to be a bewildering array of oil sumps available for the Octavia 1.9 Diesels. I've got a 110hp ASV engine in mine. How should I ensure that I buy the correct sump? What should I look out for?
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How would I go about testing if it's the wiring? Where is the other end of that bit of loom that I can stick my multimeter on?
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Just run a diagnostic - 01039 Coolant sensor not testable is the only status code that comes up related to the issue.
It's also detecting a problem with my radio, which is to be expected as I've removed it
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Is the coolant temp sensor the same sensor that supplies the dashboard needle temperature readout? Mine's been intermittent for well over 12 months.
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Another potential symptom: quite reluctant to turn over when really cold.
Best thing to do is get it plugged into vcds again and look for any other fault codes. Then get the timing checked as this can cause running issues. Also check that the brakes are not binding as this increases fuel consumption too.
How would I check the timing and brakes? Haven't done either of those before.
+ sticky egr valve
Thanks for that suggestion! How would I test this?
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Background:
110TDi ASV, a couple of months ago I had an oil leak. As part of the fix to get it home AA man topped up with some 10w40, apparently I'm needing 5w30 for reference, and since then I haven't been able to change the oil because my sump's oil drain plug won't come out.
Not too long afterwards, the car started running terribly: overfueling dreadfully and being very sluggish. Plugging it into a vagcom yielded a duff MAP sensor, since replaced, and that restored some semblance of performance into the car.
However, it is still noticeably worse on fuel under any acceleration than before all of these events started.
I've been advised so far that the MAF sensor could be a problem, or that turbo vanes could be playing up. I can think of either the oil, although I don't know if this is coincidental or not; or a sly boost leak somewhere. What other issues could I troubleshoot, or would looking anywhere else be advised?
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Might also be worth checking your anti-rollbar bushes. My car was making some horrific noises just because the rubber had deteriorated a bit
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Also, what is a helicoil?
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Can't see what is rotating, no.
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ASV engine, 2003 if it makes any odds.
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ASV engine, 2003 if it makes any odds
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Hello all. Trying to change my oil after needih to top up wih mixed oil after a leak. Sump nut is spinning in place, neither tightening nor loosening.
How do I get the thing off and how likely is it that my sump is knackered?
Brake still binding after replacing rotor, pads and calipers.
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
Ah, yes they seem to be fine.
I'll assault the guide with a suitable tool - just need to obtain one now!