VapourXR

What time does the event start at? Not been to one of these before and thinking of coming along

I was concerned it will still be under pressure as I've read that it can detect when it's not pressurised and won't turn on the AC, but mine is happily turning on, just not cooling. I'll do the screwdriver trick and hopefully it won't be. I've done some research on the PAG oil and it appears it's PAG ISO 46 according to http://www.autototal.ro/dmdocuments/Catalog%20Behr%20Hella.pdf . Will see what is in the pipe, as like you say there may be enough to seal it. It is expensive! There is cheaper stuff, but I haven't found anything on mixing it yet.

Ta, looks like its 63p from skodaparts, shame it's £5 delivery! I ordered rivets the other day :( . That picture is quite old, and it doesn't look so green anymore so I expect it would have gone by now. Is the PAG oil similar to normal oil, or do extra precautions need to be taken when handling it?

It's a 2006, it looks the same as the diagram though. I'm pretty sure, from that diagram, it would be the o-ring(item 11) that seals the pipe to the condenser. It was bubbling out from there at a fair rate. The plan is to reseal it, then get it regassed and see if it's solved the issue

Thanks Tech1e Interesting about the rubber... You wouldn't happen to know the part number by any chance? I've circled the culprit in green

Hi all, Last year I had the aircon regassed at Kwik Fit as it was no longer cold. I was under the impression this would also detect leaks in the system under the vacuum test, however it started to increase in temperature fairly soon after again! I replaced my front radiator a few months after and saw that the refrigerant was bubbling out at a fair rate from under the torque screw at the front. It's stopped bubbling now, and the air con doesn't work one bit anymore. Is it safe to say that the system will be depressurised, and that I can simply undo the screw and replace the O-ring, and re-tighten? Cheers, VapourXR

Thanks guys, have ordered the rivets from skodaparts

Ah, that makes the rears easier then! Ah okay, do you know what size the speaker rivets are? I've bought the window regulator from eurocarparts, and it has come with the carrier already riveted to the reg. I'm guessing I'm going to need to remove either the reg from the carrier, or everything from the old carrier and move to the new carrier. Not sure which way would be easier!

Hi all, My drivers side window decided to give up the other day, with the dreaded crack. I suspect its the window regulator, and so am gathering up all the parts to do the job. So far I have the window regulator, lazy tong riveter and a few spare door clips. Does anyone know how many rivets there are per door? I plan on resealing the other doors in the near future so would be good to know how many are needed for the rear doors too. Cheers, VapourXR

I had the underboost code showing up about a year ago. Turned out to be collapsed vacuum pipes caused by a split EGR pipe. It was difficult to find as the pipes looked fine at first, but when turned over it was clearly visible. It really helped logging the boost using VCDS-Lite for me, as I could see that the turbo was not being actuated at all from the requested boost vs actual boost, and the N75 duty cycle was well off. The N75 is the squarish black box in the top left hand corner if you're looking from the front of the car. It has a few vacuum pipes coming out from one side of it.

Finally found some time and it's not been raining today so went to work on fixing the car. Hardest part was removing the EGR cooler. Turns out it already had a 'blanking plate' on the exhaust manifold, however it appeared to just be a DIY cut out of metal. Who ever had done it before did a shoddy job and there was no blanking plate on the EGR side of things. I replaced all the sections of leaking/melted vacuum pipes also and then started the car up. All I can say is wow! There is now all the power down low like it should be. Only issue now is that I've done another boost log and this is the result: My concern now is that the duty cycle goes well above the normal 60-80% and the turbo appears to be overboosting. With the EGR cooler out the way I had a little feel of the actuator and it felt smooth for about an inch of movement, so I can't see it being the sticky vanes. Could this be the ECU adjusting to fixing the issues? Just don't want the turbo to go now I've finally got it working! Also the codes associated with melted vacuum lines were P0229 & P0401 for future reference.

1 ryan_101 - PD130 - blt 2 whitep - PD170 - BMN 3 VapourXR - PD130 - BLT - No nipple

Update on the situation: I went to check the vacuum pipes/ test the N75 using vcds-lite this morning. Opened up the bonnet and found that the two vacuum pipes towards the very back of the engine back had completely melted and buckled, therefore no air could flow through the pipes. As i was replacing one of these pipes, I looked down to try and find what had caused them to melt and the EGR pipe between cooler and exhaust had split in two! Sourcing an EGR delete kit to fit on, and will replace any pipes that have melted. I can't believe the car has been running fine with only the odd "EGR flow insufficient" popping up. Will update again after EGR delete is fitted and pipes replaced to help anyone else in the future with similar problems.

Yes, it was done with my foot to the floor in third gear from 1500rpm until almost the redline. I may do a few more tests when I get the chance as it felt extremely sluggish, and there was no sudden kick which I normally feel when driving the car. It makes sense looking at the logs I obtained from the run. Cheers for the graph. I can't believe how flat the response of the turbo is in my logs! Do you know of a way to test the N75?

I've gathered all the stuff to carry out the VNT Mr muscle trick, however I don't really want to be doing it if it's not the problem. The only reason why I am not 100% convinced its the sticking vanes is that its not over boosting. I bought the car earlier on in the year, and there is no history of a new turbo, which I expect means it the original as its a well maintained service history. That's what I was thinking too from looking at your previous comment on someones graph, and the actual boost followed the requested boost quite nicely. The graph was over a long period of time though so I couldn't really see the response time hence it would be nice to see a similar graph with WOT from 1500rpm to redline. Am I right in thinking the duty cycle is to do with the N75 valve? And if so maybe this could be faulty? Yes thank you faboka for taking the time to post tutorials etc!

So my car has been going into limp mode recently in fifth and sixth gear. I started doing some research on the matter, with the most common thing being sticky VNTs. I decided to buy a bluetooth OBD adapter with torque to read the fault codes given by the ECU, and discovered that I was getting under boost, and occasionally not enough flow through the EGR valve. After reading through fabokas background material I decided I would get VCDS-lite and do some of my own logs to understand more of what was happening. The logs from group 11: The logs from group 3: Looking at some other logs I have found the actual boost seems like it is not following the specified boost closely enough. I can't hear any boost leaks, and I only get a slight puff of smoke when I put my foot right to the floor. Can anyone shed any light on the matter? Or please could someone provide me with some logs from a normal functioning car? Thanks, VapourXR

Hi all, Been having having a few issues with the VRS since I bought it. First thing I noticed it will go into limp mode if in 6th gear on the motorway at cruising speed when putting my foot down for a hill or increasing speeds. This is combined with the P0299 error code (underboost). My initial reaction was that it was the sticky turbo vanes, and sourced all the stuff needed to do the Mr.Muscle trick, only to find I had the EGR cooler so decided to hold back doing it till after work has calmed down at uni. The second code I occasionally get is the P0401 (EGR flow insufficient). This caused an EML the other day, but no limp mode. I didn't manage to get the EGR off last time (couldn't get to the bolts underneath), however it looked fairly clean inside. I've done so research on these two codes on the site, and the sticky vanes seems to cause the turbo to overboost and not underboost as I am getting. And with the EGR being fairly clean it shouldn't fail to give the error. This makes me think it could be the vacuum controller. Am I right in thinking this is the N75, with about 6 pipes coming off it in the top left of the engine bay? I have circled what I think it is, but could someone please confirm? I am tempted to replace it to see if it fixes the issues before taking everything apart.

Bought my VRS a few months back, haven't done any mods to it yet, hopefully will do in the future when funds allow for it! Picture is of the car at an Autosolo, first time racing anything, and it was able to keep up with petrols around a tight course, impressed as it is standard. A lot of wheel spin though.

It did most of the damage in the time it took for me to find it, which could have been as little as 5 mins (drove the car in the morning) to a few days before when I last checked my coolant ( I have a slight leak). On the engine cover there is streaks of acid burns, along with the metal box (ECU maybe?) at the back, and the lacquer on the paint at the rear right now looks horrible when wet. I immediately got a rag out, wiped most of it off, and rinsed it off with a little bit of water. It hasn't done any more damage and I took a bucket of water to it yesterday to doubly make sure its not done anything else. A couple of the bolts/screws had that greeny stuff, but easily wiped off. My concern is it could have potentially weakened some clips. Wouldn't recommend licking the stuff! A little bit was bad enough on my fingers

Cheers for all the help guys, I expect it is this issue of the plugs, this is me currently -> However, it is a lesson learnt, and something I can warn other people about. Bought a new battery today and the plugs are clearly visible on it, will be inspecting the one that blew up next week when I go back to Southampton. Decided to wash, polish and wax the car, only for a seagull to **** on it a couple of hours later. Not been the luckiest of people this week!

I've emailed the seller and he also mentioned the vent plugs. There definitely wasn't anything protruding out that looked out of the ordinary or I would have noticed. I'm not currently with the battery as I've gone to Devon for the week (using old battery). From googling about the vent plugs there doesn't seem to be much info on them, however, I am surprised they have designed it in a way that destroys the battery if left in. Cheers for the link to that documentation, if it is these vent plugs then I may be able to use that to claim for a new one.

I don't remember removing anything when fitting the battery, so I expect they will be. Are they only on certain batteries then? I'm away from my house at university where I left the old battery so can't check currently. If this is the cause then it's surprising there wasn't any warnings/ instructions for less experienced people like me.

Measured at 14.35V with nothing switched on but the engine. Would this change over the revs possibly?

Thanks for the replies guys, greatly appreciated. I have just tested across the battery with my multimeter and was getting a reading of 14.1V. I read it somewhere saying it was best to have electronics turned on so I had all the lights and fans on when testing this. What do the vent bungs look like? May sound like a stupid question, but I've not come across them before and I fitted a battery to my last car with no problem.

If it was overcharging wouldn't the old battery already have suffered a similar fate? I'm a student at Southampton so I'm living right near the highfield campus.