VapourXR

What time does the event start at? Not been to one of these before and thinking of coming along

I was concerned it will still be under pressure as I've read that it can detect when it's not pressurised and won't turn on the AC, but mine is happily turning on, just not cooling. I'll do the screwdriver trick and hopefully it won't be. I've done some research on the PAG oil and it appears it's PAG ISO 46 according to http://www.autototal.ro/dmdocuments/Catalog%20Behr%20Hella.pdf . Will see what is in the pipe, as like you say there may be enough to seal it. It is expensive! There is cheaper stuff, but I haven't found anything on mixing it yet.

Ta, looks like its 63p from skodaparts, shame it's £5 delivery! I ordered rivets the other day :( . That picture is quite old, and it doesn't look so green anymore so I expect it would have gone by now. Is the PAG oil similar to normal oil, or do extra precautions need to be taken when handling it?

It's a 2006, it looks the same as the diagram though. I'm pretty sure, from that diagram, it would be the o-ring(item 11) that seals the pipe to the condenser. It was bubbling out from there at a fair rate. The plan is to reseal it, then get it regassed and see if it's solved the issue

Thanks Tech1e Interesting about the rubber... You wouldn't happen to know the part number by any chance? I've circled the culprit in green

Hi all, Last year I had the aircon regassed at Kwik Fit as it was no longer cold. I was under the impression this would also detect leaks in the system under the vacuum test, however it started to increase in temperature fairly soon after again! I replaced my front radiator a few months after and saw that the refrigerant was bubbling out at a fair rate from under the torque screw at the front. It's stopped bubbling now, and the air con doesn't work one bit anymore. Is it safe to say that the system will be depressurised, and that I can simply undo the screw and replace the O-ring, and re-tighten? Cheers, VapourXR

Thanks guys, have ordered the rivets from skodaparts

Ah, that makes the rears easier then! Ah okay, do you know what size the speaker rivets are? I've bought the window regulator from eurocarparts, and it has come with the carrier already riveted to the reg. I'm guessing I'm going to need to remove either the reg from the carrier, or everything from the old carrier and move to the new carrier. Not sure which way would be easier!

Hi all, My drivers side window decided to give up the other day, with the dreaded crack. I suspect its the window regulator, and so am gathering up all the parts to do the job. So far I have the window regulator, lazy tong riveter and a few spare door clips. Does anyone know how many rivets there are per door? I plan on resealing the other doors in the near future so would be good to know how many are needed for the rear doors too. Cheers, VapourXR

I had the underboost code showing up about a year ago. Turned out to be collapsed vacuum pipes caused by a split EGR pipe. It was difficult to find as the pipes looked fine at first, but when turned over it was clearly visible. It really helped logging the boost using VCDS-Lite for me, as I could see that the turbo was not being actuated at all from the requested boost vs actual boost, and the N75 duty cycle was well off. The N75 is the squarish black box in the top left hand corner if you're looking from the front of the car. It has a few vacuum pipes coming out from one side of it.

Finally found some time and it's not been raining today so went to work on fixing the car. Hardest part was removing the EGR cooler. Turns out it already had a 'blanking plate' on the exhaust manifold, however it appeared to just be a DIY cut out of metal. Who ever had done it before did a shoddy job and there was no blanking plate on the EGR side of things. I replaced all the sections of leaking/melted vacuum pipes also and then started the car up. All I can say is wow! There is now all the power down low like it should be. Only issue now is that I've done another boost log and this is the result: My concern now is that the duty cycle goes well above the normal 60-80% and the turbo appears to be overboosting. With the EGR cooler out the way I had a little feel of the actuator and it felt smooth for about an inch of movement, so I can't see it being the sticky vanes. Could this be the ECU adjusting to fixing the issues? Just don't want the turbo to go now I've finally got it working! Also the codes associated with melted vacuum lines were P0229 & P0401 for future reference.

1 ryan_101 - PD130 - blt 2 whitep - PD170 - BMN 3 VapourXR - PD130 - BLT - No nipple

Update on the situation: I went to check the vacuum pipes/ test the N75 using vcds-lite this morning. Opened up the bonnet and found that the two vacuum pipes towards the very back of the engine back had completely melted and buckled, therefore no air could flow through the pipes. As i was replacing one of these pipes, I looked down to try and find what had caused them to melt and the EGR pipe between cooler and exhaust had split in two! Sourcing an EGR delete kit to fit on, and will replace any pipes that have melted. I can't believe the car has been running fine with only the odd "EGR flow insufficient" popping up. Will update again after EGR delete is fitted and pipes replaced to help anyone else in the future with similar problems.

Yes, it was done with my foot to the floor in third gear from 1500rpm until almost the redline. I may do a few more tests when I get the chance as it felt extremely sluggish, and there was no sudden kick which I normally feel when driving the car. It makes sense looking at the logs I obtained from the run. Cheers for the graph. I can't believe how flat the response of the turbo is in my logs! Do you know of a way to test the N75?

I've gathered all the stuff to carry out the VNT Mr muscle trick, however I don't really want to be doing it if it's not the problem. The only reason why I am not 100% convinced its the sticking vanes is that its not over boosting. I bought the car earlier on in the year, and there is no history of a new turbo, which I expect means it the original as its a well maintained service history. That's what I was thinking too from looking at your previous comment on someones graph, and the actual boost followed the requested boost quite nicely. The graph was over a long period of time though so I couldn't really see the response time hence it would be nice to see a similar graph with WOT from 1500rpm to redline. Am I right in thinking the duty cycle is to do with the N75 valve? And if so maybe this could be faulty? Yes thank you faboka for taking the time to post tutorials etc!