Taavetti

People here are being told by mechanics that this white plug on the condenser is hard to remove, but has someone actually managed to get it off in the end? My 2006 Octavia is leaking from there (confirmed), and would be so much easier to replace just the plug and the air dryer element than replacing the entire condenser. A new plug and dryer element is available for around 15 Euros, but, as noted, the old plug is hard to remove. I have tried it (14mm hex key), but applying torque moves the whole condenser/radiator assembly, and I am afraid adding torque would break something and then you'd end up with replacing even more parts. So if someone has managed to get the white plug off, please share your tips. (Tried WD40 with no results.)

Exactly where do you guys spray the lubricant to fix this sticky handle? Into the the opening under the outer handle, which is revealed when the handle is pulled out, or into some of the wholes covered with plugs you see on the door frame when the door is open?

But there are no three dots in a new message that one is writing. The only options to click are "Other Media" and "Submit Reply".

Yes, you are probably right, the sensor errors should come back after clearing the codes. Do you think I should replace the sensors while at it, just to be sure?

The coil packs are of course another good candidate for culprit, in addition to injectors as suggested by varaderoguy, and I will inspect them while working my way to the injectors But do you, or anyone else reading this, have an opinion about the sensor fails I mentioned in my initial message? Could a failing fuel pressure censor produce a false alarm, warning the ECU about too lean mixture which then leads to cylinder shutdown in order to prevent damage to the valves etc.? In the common rail system there is only one sensor, but I was wondering if it can identify pressure changes in individual cylinders, similar to knock sensor, where different cylinders are distinguished by their sonic patterns.

The ethanol in the fuel is not causing anything to freeze, it is actually preventing it. During winter in Finland the temperature may fluctuate from -30°C to 0° and back, causing water to condense in the tank, and that water could cause problems, especially with traditional carburetors, where air running thought the Venturi channel in cold environment causes the fuel and emulsified water droplets to cool substantially colder than in warmer environments. But due to added ethanol in the fuel, the water gets mixed in it - water mixes with ethanol but not with petrol - and this mixture is then burned together with petrol. Just for this reason, before no one had even heard about 95E10 or 98E5 fuel, petrol stations in Nordic countries sold, as a fuel additive, 1 liter cans of methylated spirit to be added to petrol tank after filling. But your other suggestion may be a better bet, I myself have also thought about the injector, because, as I mentioned, the spark plugs are only with half of their expected life. The annoyance here is that due to the design of the 1.0TSI (who designs these things), one have to disassemble very many parts, including the intercooler in order to access the injectors for checking. I am now working on that, mentally at first

Anyone...

Hi everyone. Anyone having similar experience: While driving uphill on a motorway, I had to push the pedal some more to keep the speed, and then there was some juddering for a while, but it ceased right away. It was some -22°C outside, but the engine was warm. Next day, similar outside temperature, and again on the motorway similar symptoms for a short time, this time with the engine symbol (which is related to fuel injection system?) in the dashboard blinking. (This may have happened also during the first incident, but as I was taking over, I had to concentrate on the road rather than the instrument panel.) Later on the same day some juddering while driving slowly on the city streets, but again just for some time. The next morning it was just as cold outside, and when starting the car (pre-heated with a block heater), it started idling very unevenly, the engine symbol blinked, and then EPC light came on. After some two minutes the engine symbol stopped blinking, now only EPC light on. Heavy juddering when pressing the accelerator pedal until around 3000 rpm, where the juddering ceased. I started driving anyway (yeah yeah I shouldn’t have), and managed to get home keeping the revs above 3000 rpm with no juddering. On looking at the fault codes, I found the following: 13434 - Fuel Pressure Sensor (G247) P119A 00 [01100000] - Malfunction Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 10203 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 00 [11101101] - - MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 10591 - Cylinder 1 P0301 00 [11101101] - Misfire Detected MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 10205 - Cylinder Disabling P130A 00 [00100100] - - Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 11326 - Intercooler Temperature Sensor (Bank 1) P007B 00 [01100000] - Implausible Signal Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear After clearing the codes I started the engine again, resulting to the same symptoms, with the engine symbol blinking and the EPC light coming on. After checking the fault codes again, only three of the above appeared: 10203 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected P0300 00 [11101101] - - MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 10591 - Cylinder 1 P0301 00 [11101101] - Misfire Detected MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear 10205 - Cylinder Disabling P130A 00 [00100100] - - Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Now one would obviously first come to the easy conclusion that it is the spark plug on cylinder one causing the problem. But they have been changed some 27 000 km ago, so they should still be fine. Coil pack then? Checking these requires removing lots of parts, and before just replacing them, and then noticing it did not help, I was wondering if the fuel pressure sensor or the intercooler temperature sensor had some role in this, or even being the original culprit(s). If the problem was in the fuel injection/injection, wouldn't there be some fault codes for that too? Also, can anyone tell where exactly these sensors are located on the 1.0TSI engine?