skoda5232

Thanks.. Sure will do that and check, this is the one mounted on the coolant flange next to the air filter box right.. Now it's throwing an error also when checked with VCDS

Checked the sensor, replaced the 409 relay. Still the car stalls☹️. Now it require 2 or 3 cranks to start back up..

Where is this sensor placed.. Where is this sensor placed..

Outside temperature, strangely this problem is there only when the outside temp is showing wrong. Saturday and Sunday it was showing 5degree when it was actually 30 and the vehicle stalled atleast 5time in 15km. But today its reading correct and not stalling in my 30km drive. Don't know if it is connected or purely a coincidence.🤦

Another observation is, recently after replacing the AC Evaporator, somehow the climatronic is showing wrong temperature readings. Can it be anyway related to the above issues?

Again pulled the cover of the 409 sensor and checked the contacts of the relay. All looks clean. Can the N249 circuit cause any problem? Again pulled the cover of the 409 sensor and checked the contacts of the relay. All looks clean. Can the N249 circuit cause any problem?

You will have to remove the trims to do the wiring anyway. Better to mount it on the back seat. Get an Amplifier wiring kit, it will have all the wiring you need.

This code was not there initially, I think it is a consequential damage.

Still chasing this issue, replaced the fuel pump and crank sensor still no change. Even gave the 409 relay a good look. All looks fine. Anything else to look for guys? No code, no lights nothing

My vRs is abruptly stalling once it get to temperature, no misfiring, no jolts, but the engine cuts out suddenly. It will restart in the first or second crank immediately and run for 3-4miles without problems. Mileage also have come down. Changed the fuel pump, brake switch and checked all the hoses the small fuse box on top of the battery etc, All looks fine. Can it be the CKP sensor? Have been riding like this for a couple of days and now the P0130 B1S1 O2 error have come up, which was earlier not there when I sacnned, I think maybe it's due to soot accumulation on the O2 due to poor gas mileage. Any advice guys. Its becoming dangerous to drive this car..

Thanks Dean... i cleaner the battery terminals and the auxiliary supply terminals and drove the car close to 80miles today she was all fine. Will check again for any codes. Fuel pump is most likely to be the culprit for a 100K mile car. Will keep everyone posted.

Had this problem 5 to 6 times yesterday thought I will document it here since this can be a common problem, when slowing down in traffic the car just dies without any warning light on the dash. All the electrical systems like Stereo,AC Blower etc will be working fine at the time. Also when tried to restart the car it will start in the first crank. Some thing to do with Fuel pump, relays etc. Only error code recorded was a P249 which o think is not related..

Hi, this is the update after this experiment . Got the unit of a MK4 GTI, asn as discussed eaier the motor is completely different so removed the module and swapped with my old motor. Everything looked like it is working fine and finally installed it. Only problem noted was that when operating the windows when the switch is pressed down the window goes up and vice-versa. So as a solution I swapped the yellow wires of the switch coupler of the passenger side and it works fine now. Didn't bother the fiddle with the switch of driver side as I will be the only one driving the car. If needed the same can be done on the master switch also I think. Hope this information is useful.

No, the motor hardware is different. The control module looks the same.

Any idea on the interchangeablity b/n mk1 and MK4 Golf modules?

All the wiring looks ok on both the sides. Will start with replacing the passenger side control module. Have managed to find an old one of a MK4 GTI. Even though the motor design is different the control module and the coupler looks similar, so my question is.. Is the module interchangeable with Octy? The stock part number is 1U6959801D. Plz share your suggestions..

Checked the passenger door, all ok. Everything else is working. Is the convenience control module shot?

As strange as it may sound, this is really happening. My passenger side window stopped working, so I removed the door card pulled out the glass winder, motor etc. Everything looked intact no corrosion. Confirmed that the motor is working after removing the control module. Greased the winder and put it all back together, now when I try to operate the window from the door and also from the master switch all the 4 door locks get actuated. So rechecked the door wiring harness and the pins all looks good. Any experts here who can help me?

What started out as a simple lens replacement turned out to be a big 2dayjob. Below are the problems being addressed. 1. The glases are faded out and need replacement, have a replacement set in hand so no problems here. 2. Opened the rear cover and found that the whole wiring harness insulations had cracked and needs to be reworked or replaced. Not decided what to do next. 3. Xenon lens reflectors had melted out. Have a roll of high temp aluminium tape which I am planning to cover the damaged area with but not sure it is the right decision. 4. On the Head light level motor what looks like a plastic stopper had broken off. Logically it should be fine without the stopper. I will try to document whatever possible here, meanwhile anyone travelled in this route plz share your experience. Mainly would like to know if there is any Bolt-on D2S lens kit for the melted reflectors.

Today blocked off the vaccum line from the suction jet pump and to my surprise the brake response went from bad to worse😫... totally confused..

Thanks kent, will do. Another finding is that the pedal is rock solid after parking for an hour or so.. i checked the first one way valve from the manifold, couldnt find anything wrong as the valve is flowing only in one direction like it is meant to.

The Suction jet pump is there to generate Vaccum when the engine is in boost right? Throw some light here guys plz.. Kinda stuck right now.

Have notice a wierd problem recently, the car tends to loose brake feel when the engine is in Vaccum but is normal under boost. Checked for any cracks or leaks in the vaccum hose but all looks fine, anyone been on my path before??

Have the stock control arms, I don't want to use the stock bushes with slots in them. Looking for a solid bush

Thanks mate, will the round one fit where the oval ones go?