Gazdok

I fitted a RVC to our SII estate - I have attached the VCDS of the 6C controller after calibration. If your OPC is suddenly playing up and you should not have done anything to it for the RVC installation, go back to the last coding where the OPC was working and delete the DTCs. Otherwise it may have coincidentally become faulty. RVC_cal.txt

These are the part numbers for LED rear light clusters. UK Left - 3T9945095B - NO LED fog Skoda 462 FL SX UK LH F03483500 00 148 EC Left - 3T9945095A - With LED fog Skoda 462 FL SX ECE LH F03483000 00 UK Right - 3T9945096B - With LED fog Skoda 462 FL DX UK RH F03484500 00 149 I did not bother with a EC right as that does not have a LED fog light. If you would like a LED fog on the right you need to look for a UK right. It must be more expensive to build 4 different light clusters rather than have 2 for one model.

Silver1011, You are correct. I had mine out and swapped the over. The fog only lights up in the right one. When you look at the light cluster, it looks as if there is something in the slot for the left fog, but there are no LEDs visible. The reverse is true for the continental european ones. They seem to have a fog only in the left cluster. The wiring however is the same for left and right.

I have the LED FL version. I think I have 2x LED fog lights fitted but only one activated. I have checked on the wiring diagram but have not attempted an activation across yet. Rear light cluster wiring.pdf M4 on the left tail light has a NSL - Nebelschlußleuchte - as well as M42 on the right, but it is not connected on the left. I have messed up my rear cluster when I tried to activate with VCP and back to square one.

I have a VCP and VCDS and neither allow the 2. fog light to come on. VCP is probably more advanced and I have not seen any posts that describe that it works via coding. But right and left hand drive have one on the opposite sight I think.

For most wires on the RVC only connect the same colour patterns. For R/W and R/Ge (yellow) they can go on the same as both are switched 12V+. Keep the Can buses as twisted as possible.

I see from your profile that you have a Superb II as well. Would you not want to do that one too and post a how to.... Just because I have a Superb II and have thought about a 2. rear fog light. Sorry, a bit cheeky.

craigandrew, I took the Red/White within the cable loom where it goes down from the fuse board under the floor carpet in the driver side footwell. Look at my picture 6. Janar, you should NOT have an Or/Gr in the RVC system. I just mentioned it, because it is another CAN bus system on the car. If you do not connect the CAN bus or connect it wrong the TV or RVC will not get and send the correct information to the gateway.

The orange/brown and orange/purple are the Can-supplies. They are a MUST and cannot be left unconnected. There are different Can buses in the Superb. Make sure you connect it to the corresponding colours.Or / Br Can low, Or / purple Can high Infotainment. Or / Gr Can high drive. Or / Sw Can high .... The Red/White and the Red/Yellow are both switched 12V. I connected both onto a Red/White in the A-pillar. Brown is ground. You connect the components in the order: Camera - TV Tuner - Camera controller - Columbus.

The handle will fit without the bracket. It has small plastic "hooks". Make sure you rust proof the cutout in the tailgate and then use a thin film of silicone.

It looks o.k. PNs are correct.

The RVC controller PN I used is at the top. You can use Tiguan, Passat...

Except for the TV tuner and camera lead I bought my parts separately on EBAY. It was used but o.k. I have seen the pin outs when I was looking for my loom and I think the pinouts were different for the RFK HIGH 7N1971327 and the TV tuner loom 7N1971327b. The part numbers are different... You still need a Fakra Z lead from the camera to the controller and the camera needs a power supply - white leads on my picture with the loom on the floor.

This should do the job. Just follow the instructions or route the cable your own way. You have to cut out the tail gate for the larger boot handle. I think I paid half that price though.

The lead for TV Tuner + RFK High: 7N1971327b. You buy this from VAG. If you do not have or do not want to use the TV tuner any more you use : RFK HIGH: 7N1 971 327. I guess it is different from 7N1971327b, but I can not tell you the pin outs. A Columbus / RNS510 happily runs a camera instead of TV tuner, i.e. you can ditch the TV. The link below shows the setup in the car. https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/ra/sharan/sha/2016-689/9/971-972070/#1

I "overinflate" tyres on all our cars to near maximum load for an empty car and 10% or 0.2 bar over a fully loaded car and have been doing this since I went to a driver safety day - on a SII estate 2.6bar front and 3.0 bar rear. It gives a slightly harder ride but I have never had issues with tyre wear, in fact it has even helped extend a few tyres when I bought a car second hand and I noticed the same picture as Steva - wear on the edges with more tread left on the centre. With regards to the winter tyre wear you are using a 16" winter tyre with a higher rubber side wall where there will be more flex in the sidewall compared to the 17" summer tyre. Even with XL tyres you will have to put more pressure into the 16" tyre to "stiffen" the sidewall up and not make the tyre roll over the edges on the straight but particularly when cornering.

https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres-225-40-18/?m[13]=on plus Plus £30 for fitting. They send the tyres straight to your fitter.

Our Superb is a UK model without additional heater. The heated seats do not take long to warm and I have to start turning them down soon after starting because they get too warm. Do you have the climate control / heating set to Auto recirculation or manual? Auto will give you heat faster.

We have just been to Switzerland with -15 C. The car heated up quick. You have got the L&K, which comes with everything heated.

I have fitted VW Road America 16" as winter wheels. They have an ET of 37 which makes them sit very nicely and flush with the wheel arches. I had a skoda 16" set with an ET of 45 before and I hated the disappearing-in-the-wheel-arches look.

Barum Bravuris 3HM since last summer. They do no feel or drive any worse than the Conti sport contact we had before. Good deal last summer.

I changed from summer to winter tyres yesterday. The only slight hitch was when we tightened the anti theft bolts and despite care and clean and straight fitment of the wrench the key seemed to slip. I looked at the inside of the key and I noticed that the edges inside seemed to have been deformed. This was the original Skoda locking wheel nut key that came with the car as far as I can tell. I have thought before when changing the tyres that there is only a tiny overlap inside the key and there is not much room for error. I cannot remember that I slipped off the lock nut before. Since I had the car I only went to a tyre shop once and I am sure they used an impact driver to get the wheels off. I have had lock nuts on every single car before but never had a nut with such limited fit of nut and key. I guess if I go back to Skoda and complain about the poor quality of their lock nut key they will just laugh at me. On the internet there are loads of reports of VAG key buckling and many seem to blame the impact wrenches. Has anyone put better aftermarket anti theft bolts on?

Use the search function. All parts and descripton in there.

Is this 'rollback' an engine chip tuning and do you tell / have to tell your insurance or does it not gain any more power?

You can definitely hear a subtle noise, esp. when the engine is off. I cannot see where either the ventilation or the heater function would be unpleasant or uncomfortable. Ventilation for hot summer and heated seat for winter - very nice.