[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

Before you do that, I would double check that the sensor is not the cause, I did say it was unlikely, but it is still a small possibility. You may find loom damage or some piece of road debris near the sensor, it costs nothing but time and another fuse to rule it out really.

I'll do that first then, thanks.

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

You will probably have track the wiring back to each loom connector block in turn as you check for shorts with a multimeter unfortunately.

This is possibly going to be a bit of a trial, as this is an unusual fault that does not appear to have any obvious regular causes, as I did a google search to see if I could get any extra info for you.

OK kentphil1, thanks for all your help so far I appreciate it. I will try trace the fault with a multimeter over the weekend and let you know what happens.

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

I must admit, I would be sceptical of the sensor unless it looks damaged, and would be more inclined to be looking for a short in the ecu supply cable, but you have not a lot to use in checking the sensor first.

You may be right about the ecu short as this has been going on a while and this is what happens - The epc light comes on and off intermittently and sometimes the engine management light comes on with it, and also turns off again which I didn't think was possible unless you clear the fault or remove the power supply but it just turns itself off? Also some other small things like door open light on dash staying on for days and then just turns off. The f34 fuse is for petrol/diesel management system and there are two more fuses for the same that have blown in the past. Do I just do a visual inspection of the ecu supply cables?

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

I was able to remove the wipers and plastic tray to get to the ecu. The two earth wires looked to be reasonably good but I disconnected them anyway and gave them a good clean with light sandpaper and a spray of wd40. The ecu and all that compartment was dry and clean so I don't think water is getting in. I changed the fuse and it blew after a few hours. Could my map sensor be blowing the fuse?

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

I think you really need to get access under the wipers as soon as possible, as that is where all the wiring to that fuse emanates from and if the wipers are siezed, then it is quite likely that the area has not seen much attention in a while.

OK thanks, I will try find a way to free them. Maybe some heat will do the trick.

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

Have you checked the earths under the wiper cover are clean and bright and also that the drains for the plenum chamber are clear of leaves and general organic matter from trees etc?.

Also, have you had the car scanned for any codes that may be present yet?, as that may also be to your advantage.

Code I got was P0107.

I tried to get the wiper blades off before to have a look at the earths and they are stuck on I could not remove them.

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

Sorry, I meant is it diesel,petrol?, also is it a VRs, L&K , other trim variant?, also, is it manual or auto?, hatch or estate?

There are a lot of wiring diagrams for the mk1, and engine type and trim variant are quite important.

It's aa Skoda Octavia glx manual 1.4 litre petrol hatch.

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

What model octavia do you have?.

Hi, its the mk1.

[Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing.]

My 2002 Octavia fuse f34 keeps blowing and the epc light comes on. When I replace the fuse the epc light goes off and all is good for a few days. Then the epc will suddenly come back on and when I check the fuse has blown again. Any ideas where to start please?

[High pitched noise from throttle body when running.]

It should only whistle if the TB has been disconnected, & then only for about 30secs while the TB realigns.

You need to get a diagnostic done really.

Thanks I am having it put on vcds tomorrow my brother has it.

[High pitched noise from throttle body when running.]

Is this high pitched noise supposed to continue while the car is running? It never stops.

[Name of the sensor beside vss (vehicle speed sensor)]

no,is the reverse light

Thanks. I'm getting some fault codes about Evap control valve circuit short and heater control circuit and 02 sensor circuit. Surely they can't all be gone?

[Name of the sensor beside vss (vehicle speed sensor)]

Can anyone tell me the name of the sensor beside the vss(vehicle speed sensor) on the top of the gearbox? I think it's too do with the emissions or something.

[Location of engine to chassis ground?]

is the only ground point on the entire car,I made another one from the alternator brachet of the coolant pipe to the engine mount;s small bracket

Thank you I may need to do the same I'm having a lot of electrical problems of late I just need to rule out a bad alternator first.

[Location of engine to chassis ground?]

under the battery tray and on the gearbox

Hi IulianE and thanks for the reply. I found where it attaches under the battery tray and then forks off and attaches to a point on the engine at the gear box. Is this the only grounds as I want to check/clean them all?

[Location of engine to chassis ground?]

Can anyone tell me the location of the engine to chassis ground strap please? I'm having problems I think may be ground related but I can't find the strap location.

[Intermittent vehicle speed sensor malfunction]

I'd just like to add that now my diagnostics is reporting multiple sensor faults.

Heater control circuit sensor 1 and 2.

Evap purge control valve circuit sorted.

02 sensor heater circuit.

Vehicle speed sensor range/performance.

[Intermittent vehicle speed sensor malfunction]

I've had my Octavia for about 18 months now. The speed sensor failed so I purchased another. While replacing the sensor I noticed that the guy that had the car before me had run a supply from the junction box on top of the battery to one wire of the vss harness. Upon removing this wire and testing the supply to the harness it was only getting 3.2v and with his wire it was getting 14.5v. I put this wire back on and put in the new sensor. Everything worked fine for around one week and the sensor went again. I seen online that someone else supply to the sensor was 14.21v so I removed his supply and took a supply from cigar lighter which was 14.23v and bought a new sensor. Tried the car and everything works fine for a few hours and then the speed sensor stops working again. The next day I'm driving and the speed sensor starts working again so I wonder is there a bad ground? I checked/cleaned the ground cable from battery to the body under the battery cover and it goes from there to the engine but i can't find a ground strap going from the engine to the chassis. Is there one I'm not seeing? Any help is much appreciated.

[Glad I found this forum.]

Hello, Webblade here from Ireland. Glad I found this site I may need your expertise a lot :-/