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stewmitch

Finding my way
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Posts posted by stewmitch

  1. Hi another discussion on central locking I'm afraid - none of the others seem to answer my problem.

    I’ve got a 53 plate Octavia Elegance.

    Neither of my remote key fobs work - they worked fine until a few days ago. I have replaced the battery in one but still no luck.

    The central locking and alarm etc. works fine with the manual (drivers door) lock and from inside the car (using the drivers door button).

    I've had a superficial look at the fuses but they seem OK (although a more detailed look would not go amiss).

    Any ideas?

    Other points that may or may not be related:

    1. Had to use some brute force to get into the bonnet the other day – seized catch (the issue above started immediately after - but cannot see how they are related).

    2. The alarm when you open the drivers door with the lights on seems to have stopped working.

    3. I'm not sure if the relay(?) that 'clicks' after 30 seconds or so when you turn off the ignition and just sit on your car is still working (I've not noticed the click for a while).

    Thanks

    Mark

    did you ever sort this problem out as i have exactly the same symptoms ??

    does anyone know which relay it is at if it may be a problem with relay?

    help please....

  2. hopin someone can help me out here..just got a vw climate display to replace my ocy one but wont show up temp and led's wont work is there a specific one needed to work on ocy? i have noticed that mine is einstelleinheit (adjusting unit) II and the vw one is adjusting unit III also software(i think thats wat it is)is diffrent mine is c2.0.0. and vw 0006 ??? does this make any sense and can anyone help? is it possable to recode vw one??

    aghh so many questions.....

  3. I've noticed on my Octavia TDi that the alternator cable on top of the battery, and right next to the 110A fusible link gets very hot when the headlamps, heated screen and fan blower are all on. The cable has also discoloured due to the heat and resistance, and I've measured a volt drop of 0.8V under load between the cable and the terminal where it crimps. I've seen this before on other VW/Audi models and Ford Galaxy vehicles, so I'd say it's relatively common.

    I want to renew the cable, but rather than make one does anyone know if the individual cable is available to buy, or is it part of the complete loom?

    Thanks in advance.....

  4. can anyone tell me if the kvw100 modules are still available or is there an easier way of enabling window closure on lock etc .i have vag-com (311.2(regestered))but cannot do with that. have serial cable on way and have vds-pro is it possable with this??

    sorry bit of a newbie with this

  5. had the same problem with lead corrosion on lead from altenator burt out fuse box twice now i think there is a design fault on the lead as mine is a 120 amp altenator and the cable on default lead looks to thin for 120 amp cable..and connections seem to corrode ..just had a new lead made out of 170amp battery cable and carefully stripped the old cable down to retreve alternator/ air con block connectors then put them on new cable and heatshrinked the lot.....also rebuilt a new battery top fuse box and made sure all nuts were replaced . going to get alternator and regulator checked now to be sure no other problems ..but this seems to be a common problem on a lot of vw group cars (mine octavia tdi) so if your reading this check your alternator fuse (usually 110 or 150 amp, in box on top of battery)

    alternitvily you can buy the new cable from dealer 1J0971349 (FQ) last letters may be diffrent !!

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