shafty

Well I've been able to get down to the car again briefly. Put it on a diagnostics this time And figured out that the immobiliser is working as it should so thats nice. I am getting recurrent error codes 00282 throttle position actuator (v60) blocked or no voltage 01087 basic setting not proformed Not a plausible signal Are these codes caused by a failed attempt to do a throttle body reset ? As when I try to do one the butterfly valve doesn't move but the motor turns a bit. I took a video of the inside of the throttle body (under the metal cover) but I can't upload it on here :( Any idea what could be causing this? Me and my friend who is much more electrically minded than me couldnt really see a obvious problem with the wiring. Could this be responsible for the lack of pulse signals to coil and injectors? I also tryed turning the engine over again with the node light plugged in to one of the injectors and the light flashes once but that's all 🤔

This is all I get to choose from in the engine section

It doesn't appear to have any 1.3 felicias listed?? Only the 1.9 and 1.6? Or am I doing something wrong?

Hmm.. Yes that is rather disappointing haha. I was hoping I had found a less expensive option than vcds... Wishful thinking I suppose :( Thanks for trying it out and posting the pics 👍

Yeah elsawin, that's the one I have

I just purchased a workshop manual download that states it covers all models of felicia but I can't see the 1.3 mpi simos 2p 50kw engine on there anywhere :( Dose anyone have one that they could send me please or a link to a download or anything like that? I would be happy to offer some beer tokens if anyone can help. Thanks Rob

I did message the company and they have said that if you can do it with vcds then you can do it with obdeleven... But honestly I don't believe that?? 🤔

Has anyone tried using the obdeleven diagnostics tool on a felicia ( 1.3mpi Siemens SIMOS 2P specifically) If so how dose it shape up against vcds? Can you do things like resetting the immobiliser for fitting new ecu's? Thanks

It's the same in the UK, if a car doesn't have a VIN number then it's likely stolen or some other illegal activitie has happened, but it's perfectly legal to replace a engine so long as you inform the DVLA of the change and supply the new engine number 👍

Excellent news, thanks 👍

The engine is second hand yes, but I couldn't tell you how many owners it's had exactly. its also been painted so no stickers that I can see. No vin number from the car but I can get the engine number. Would any ecu for a 1.3mpi marked as 50kw work? The pictures are of my ecu (5wp4326) and one that I have been offered to buy ( 5wp4329) are they interchangeable?... Ignoring the Immobiliser issue. Thanks 👍

I'm trying to find out the year of the felicia that my 1.3mpi engine is from. (I never saw the car it came out of) Is there a way to find this out? Engine number? ECU sticker date? Thanks

I will check this also 👍 I'll be at the car again this weekend.

I will have to confirm this again as I might just of been hearing the fuel pump relay and the sound of fuel passing through the pressure valve, as the last time I tryed to start it it had dry spark plugs when removed.

Ahh I see. Well call me old fashioned but I still like to say thank you... But I'll also click your little thumbs up button.. I guess points mean prizes and all that haha

I did that... But it was already switched on... Switched it off and on again, saved.. Still nothing? What is it that I need to be reading in your signature?

Thanks RicardoM that's a big help 👍 Unfortunately I don't have a oscilloscope or access to one.. Or even how to use one haha (but I'll look in to it) I did notice when I removed the coilpacks to look at the plugs there was a lot of white powder on the bracket that the coil bolts to. It was obviously coming from the coil as when I gave it a shake I could see the powder falling out??? I'm guessing that's not normal... But I haven't investigated it yet. Also is it normal for the w wire in the diagram to have a permanent voltage on it? I was getting about 10.4v on it (if I remember correctly). I don't know what you mean by "read my signature"?? Cheers

The diagnostic plug is currently not wired in.. But I have just got myself the vcds software and cable for my laptop so I would like to wire the obd plug back in. Any Info on this (wiring diagram) would be greatly appreciated as I can't see the information I need in the manual I have. Thanks Rob

Well I brought the wiring home the other night and went through it all, removed and replaced all the modifications that had been done so it is all connected as it should be following the diagram. Although I have replaced the ignition barrel switch with a single relay, operated by a toggle switch. The starter motor is also operated by a separate push button. I fitted everything back in to the car this evening and it is still the same :( When I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump relay can be heard clicking and the fuel pump runs for probably around 5 seconds or so then the relay clicks off again. The injectors are also receiving 12v in that same period. When I turn the engine over the fuel pump relay is activated again and the pump runs and continues to run for a few seconds after I stop cranking.. Then the relay switches off again. I don't have any pulse signals from the ecu to the coil or injectors! Could someone please tell me exactly what effect the Immobiliser has to stop the engine running? Dose it stop the pulse signals like I'm experiencing? Also I would really really appreciate it if someone could tell me or share a diagram with me of the Immobiliser and diagnostics wiring. Thank you in advance for any help given.

Is it posable to fit it in the wrong orientation? I haven't removed it so I am just assuming it's correct...( You know what they say about assumptions) All flywheels I've dealt with in the past have been doweld to fit one way! Even if it was wrong I should still be getting spark... Just not at the right time?

Thanks RickardoM. The engine is currently in the car and attached to the chassis. But I think I will take out the engine loom and fuse box so I can work on it in the evenings at home. I tryed to find a pic of the flywheel but I don't have any from a good angle so you can see the cut outs properly. But I have seen on another post a picture of the correct mpi flywheel and it looks the same as mine... It has the extra little slot in it. (ill get a picture soon) Thanks

This is the fuse box as it stands at the moment

Yep just checking, thanks bud. I think my first port of call is going to be re wiring the fuse box to how it should be originally as it looks like it's had some rather "interesting" modifications made to it. Then hopefully that will put me in a better position to fult find. Thanks again

I have made up a little 12v led test light now. Am I right in thinking I should be running it between pins 2 and 4, and pins 3 and 4? Thanks

Unfortunately I can give next to no history of the engine or the car it came from as I got the engine as a unfinished project. What kind of info would be most useful to you? I'll try my best to answer. Basically I have the engine... Ecu... Engine loom... fuse box with lots of wires removed as the previous owner has removed as much of the un needed wiring as posable... Immob box... Key... Ignition barrel and key reader... (supposedly a matching set.. But I have no proof of that) I have fitted a electric fuel pump wired in as the original would have been. I'll put together a proper explanation / diagram of the current wiring when I have a free moment. But as it stands the only thing that seems to be stopping the engine starting is the fact there is no spark. And there appears to be no pulse signal from the ecu... Any advice on things to check to try and determine if the ecu is at fault? Cheers