Redman99

Thanks for a confusing drive complete fast up VCDS nothing eye what who knows since last gained stuff "HOT ARSE" ...read my post again please, maybe pass it through another translation device. "avez vous un fenetre?" ....remember.....I live in LONDRES ! une grand ville avec huit million etc.....please read my post again !!!

Hi all, I've posted a few things here about my most excellent Roomster 2.0TDi somewhere within here in the past.... Today I speak of my Yeti L+K 2.0TDi (2016) bought in July 1st 2020. It's Euro6 compliant and I live in Crouch End, North London (that's where the problems start) COVID has affected us all and I extend a heartfelt sympathy to those that have lost close ones to this awful thing. Those of us with these sort of cars that need a flogging from time to time are in a pickle. My lovely nearly new car (sub 40k miles) choked itself to death ...almost. I paid £300 for a very fast service to unblock my cars Butt, I learned much. My question is why my car fails to tell me when it needs a whopping big hot FART ? There is no caution to warn me early of a problem, only the three lights of the Apocalypse (DPF, Engine and "I'm Dead"). I'll keep it short, been a long day, last few times I've warmed the engine driving to Brent Cross in traffic (temp dial reaches 90...balanced) then hit M1 in Sport DSG and flog until Scratchwood (called summat else now) I noticed at least 3 times at different days, the temp gauge quickly moves to 110C for 20+ seconds then drops back to 90 no matter what I do, either in full auto or semi. I tried plugging monitoring things in the engine thingy but it's a bit dodgy at 90mph (JOKE !!) I ask myself did I buy a nice car to drive or perform open heart surgery every time I drive it ? A simple light to say "Flog me baby !" every so often and not a "you're choking me to death !" light to give me some indication. My point being, the temp needle rises to 110 for 20+ seconds when I stomp my Prosthetic hard down (yes, I'm disabled, right leg lower amp) and the whole deal is done with one cautionary note.... The DPF sensor often shows "over volatage" by 1V ....the part number is 03L 906 051B. Hope someone finds this useful....keep safe folks.... G

Thanks all ! same thing with my Roomster 1.9tdi... started thinking "relays" then I remembered I'm a member here. MOT next week and all the usual insecurities about small faults = big bills. Oh Happy Days ! cheers.

I'll sling my idea in the arena...... Same thing happened to me, also 2 of the sensors had been pushed inside the bumper. Removed the bumper quick enough and glued the loose ones back in (I pulled the other ones off too, in case they fell off later and reglued them) this seemed to work for a bit then the screeching began. I wiggled the gear stick in reverse (engine off) a few times and tried again. It worked fine...I suspect the switch inside the gear change. I'm changing the whole stick and cables anyway, the ball joint has worn, when it gets warm it becomes very hard to select gears. I keep a small paint brush and tub of silicone grease handy, when it happens I can pull into layby and grease the ball joint, works every time. The wiggling of the stick seems to work too, I think it works the switch/sensor and loosens it. Bare in mind it isn't used that often over the life of the car. My Roomster is from 2007 and still going strong except for minor bits, light bulbs etc.

Many thanks.

I'm a simple guy and can't follow worded descriptions too well, pictures speak volumes......so.... Gear change (Roomster 1.9 Tdi 2007) became difficult, did the cable setting thing a few times (enough to learn the sequence by heart) then when that didn't tighten up the change I went for the Tranny goo change. Nice for a bit yet after long hot drive in heavy traffic for 6 hours, back came the distorted shift. Groan ! Lifted up the protective sheath around the shaft and followed the rod down to the base where I noticed a large white ball surrounded by white sticky goo. It was very warm and stiff. It occurred to me that this ball joint may be contaminated and affecting the smoothness of shifting. Can I just insert a grease nipple somewhere around the ball thing and inject the white goo or do I have to remove rims and bits ? By "goo", I mean Lithium lard. Is it that simple ? there appears to be no other wear or movement on the other parts. Redman

Great post, I followed easy guide that you laid out and surprised myself by doing it. I didn't have time to take wheels off but managed it just fine. I would just like to Post Script about the plastic rivets and reversing sensors. I bought a bag of 10 new plastic rivets beforehand as I knew I'd probably break the old ones (which I did of course) and the point of removing the rear bumper was to re-glue the sensors back in position. The wiring is held in with metal clips that pop off easy enough and clip back on just as easy. I pulled the sensor wiring plugs off using a small screwdriver to push in the tiny locking lug then wiggling the plug off. The bumper just comes right off then. The sensors are stuck on using what looks likest black mastic type goo that dries to a brittle crisp, I cleaned this stuff off easily and used a 2 pack type fast set glue. Solid. Well pleased. Thanks Watson, big salute.

The actual part serial is 6Q7883809B.

I'm looking at the part now, it's got 5 sets of serial numbers. I'll list the 3 shortest sets. (D524707) (L522701) & (L121735) This is a VW AG part. Skoda charge £55 each then a postage charge. You also have to mention which side lock it is...left rear seat, right lock or whichever lock it is that's busted. I'll list the other numbers too (might as well eh) (PL wB3 6Q7883809B) & (FG070938346890E). Good luck.

Rear seat catches

Good point, didn't look there..I noticed the beeping had stopped and groaned.

Hi There is one on the electronic manual but you have to buy, download and install it. It's a bit of a faff. It doesn't tell you much either but the locks are simple enough, it's just getting them open if they've snapped the pin. I managed it and I'm a ham fisted lunk. I've searched again but there's very little about them....if at all ! I described how to pop the locks earlier and can upload a picture of what they look like before & after if you need a look. Let me know.

Hi I discovered a problem with the reverse sensors, intermittent . Sometimes works and other times , no. I checked out some solutions around here but I think I've got a grip of it now. While wondering whether I'd turned the key too quick at starting (causes all sorts of crazy things) I then wiggled the gear stick in the reverse slot. And there it was ! Reverse sensor switch is sticky. I fixed it without actually doing much, just repeated wiggling (gentle of course) in the R Gear slot. It worked...(for now) ! I'm not saying this cures all ills around the sensors, just a short test to perform before calling in the surgeons. Could be just the switch...etc Make sure there is something close to sensors too, something to "detect". Sorry to sound obvious but some folk prefer just to drive cars rather than try and fix them. This is the kind of thing that won't get your hands dirty. Kind Regards... R

I shouted a lot, then shouted some more before doing some yoga to supple up for the task. 1. Slid seats forward to get to the 4 torx heads on the plastic cover at base of seat (from the boot) and unscrewed, removed panel. 2. Slid seats back again to see locks and pulled on the release bar. ( I saw what it was supposed to do but there it was connecting with nothing) that's when I realised some bit was missing. I found a small bit of metal in the lock well and figured that this should be doing something. 3. Went online to find seat diagram and matched the bit in my hand with the part on the picture. 4. Faffed around for hours trying to undo the locks (at this time I didn't know the seats needed to be all the way back to lift) not that it mattered in this case. Using a flat blade screwdriver I pushed down on the stub where the pin shouldv'e been and with a crowbar lifted it a fraction, just enough for it to keep the lock from springing back. That was the left lock, I had to repeat with the right lock while the other was still open. 20 tries later and a bent ego, up came the seat. I had that to do again for the second seat. My sanity was in the danger zone. 5. Find parts.....(chapter 6 in my autobiography) 6. Fitting was easy, 2 bolts per lock done with a ring spanner (8mm I think)....sorted. Finding the problem was by far the most stressful followed in second place by releasing the locks. But my pain is everyones gain. At least there is a reference point here now and if it ever happens to somebody, I hope it doesn't, it can be sorted.

Hi again.... Update on Roomy seats. I've read all the posts so far and I'm now probably the most expert rear seat scientist "...in...the..........world !" I too found out about the fabric handle at the rear. I can see it's usefulness (can't help thinking they should be on front seats too) I'm mystified as to why the seats need to be all the way back just to lift, all it's done is added more "bits" to go wrong....which they did. All Four ! I suspect they snapped when the seats were dropped shut, I'm more than certain now I've had them in bits. The scrap yard promised me, yes promised, to send the locks out within 2 days.....and I got them too ! Brand new (practically) the donor car was written off after 2000 miles, I saw it. I mentioned before that the faffing with Skoda Parts (in the Midlands somewhere) took a couple of weeks and the quoted price made me ill....not much change from £250. £42 later and a couple of days writing my book "Seats of Death"... the parts arrived. Getting the seats up with all the locks broke took some contortions that Houdini would wince at ! But I did it in about an hour, once the seats were up, it was simple really. If anyone is interested, I can upload a couple of pictures of the lock (before & after). I know a trick or two on how to get to the locks and what has to be done to release them, it's not easy but only two tools required. A long shaft flat blade screwdriver and any type of mini crow bar (Pounshop type is made for it). I'm glad it seems that it was only me it happened to, I guarantee if a mechanic was asked to sort it out they (or some shifty sods) they would charge a bucket of gold. Because I bought the car like that, it almost became normal so when they finally worked properly I got a bit excited. "Oooh...my seats work !" I need to get out more. Thanks for the replies. A little knowledge shared can save big headaches later.