skidmoose

HI this is starting to stress me out now. P1364 - 35 - 00 cylinder 4 ignition circuit : open circuit. Replaced all coil packs and plugs. Checked wiring on top of cam cover, probably has been better in its life but still looks ok. Drives ok till up to temp, then develops a misfire. Any help would be valuable.

It's been on my car for about 3 months now. I had it fitted for the MOT as my downpipe was blowing badly and failed emmisions cos it was leaking that bad.

They do pass emissions I have one of those on mine, although they are a **** fitment, very close to the chassis and knocks sometimes.

What difference does the 2.0 coils make. And do they use the same loom as the 1.8. Is it an advisable mod for reliability

That looks a sweet set up that.

That brilliant Wino thank you for the help. Wiring loom coming tomorrow so I can see what that's like colour wise. Wanted to order a conduate for the top of the cam cover were the wiring goes along the cam cover and into the coil packs but can't seem to find any, spoke to awesome gti and they said they only do it for the 2.0 not the 1.8t. Has anyone made anything or used anot her make part to prevent all the heat on the wiring. What are other people using please.

It's getting proper frustrating now. Went to cadwell park yesterday for a time attack meeting (obviously not on the track) takes about 20/25 mins to get there and the drive is not a steady drive. Got there spent a couple hours there drove home fine not even a hick up. Went to a local event on the way home no problem, got home no issue's. Drove to work today which is about 10 mins away, just round the corner from work started the hesitation on light throttle. Parked up did my shift came out started and boom big misfire. Luckily this time it stored a code. Back to cyl 4 misfire open circuit intermittent. So at least I have something to work with, but it's so random no pattern to it that I a such an unriliable car at the min. Sharkrider I have been looking around and thinking of getting two 8 pin waterproof plugs and joining the loom near the coolant temp sensor to save going all the way to the ecu and messing around with the ecu plug. Just have to wait for the loom to come and see how it looks from there. Anyone want a parts car if this doesn't work lol. Only joking but I am bored of spending money on this now. Well not bored but it is running out yall know what I mean.

Looking at it though it doesn't seem straight forward as I am thinking as there are wires that are the same colour. So trying to match wires from the top to the bottom might get a bit tricky. Anybody got a wiring diagram just for the coil packs, or ignition or even engine bay. I could possible work the rest out.

I am thinking of getting two 8 pin plugs and joining them that way, as solder does react to heat and vibration in an engine bay, so I am told by an auto electrician??!! Anyway I think that's the way I am going. Just been outside eyeing up if it's possible. And if there is a problem down the line I will only have two coils per plug on the loom to deal with. This is all theory at the min lol.

I am having the very same problem. Used to come up intermittent open circuit on cyl 4, so I changed the plug and short loom, but it's still got the same fault as you with no codes being brought up. After inspecting most of the coil loom I think that this is the next step for me. Replacing the full loom, but this job looks quite intense to do cos it goes right back to the ecu and ya have to mess with plugs and stuff.

Thanks for that andy68, that's what I was looking for before the replacement plug. Forgot all about awesomegti . Any one on here done this replacement before, or anyone got a link from a golf site on whats inlovled

Scratch the no codes part. Had a couple of days driving now and the code has come back. P1364 cyl 4 open circuit intermittent. Getting boring now.

Got the plug and wires connected and all seems fine, no code coming back after a hard drive and a steady drive. Got the car right up to temp and think all is good no codes coming back after several scans.....but the engine seems to misfire between 2000 and 2700rpm, no codes but I can definitely feel it, on driving it seems fine and boosts well and pulls like it should, but sat as I go through the Rev range it is defo missing between this rev band. Any clues were my next fix will start. Getting a bit tedious now.

Hi guys, after alot of messing around trying to chase an intermittent open circuit code on cylinder 4 I think I have a dodgy pin/wire on the connector, so ordered a new connector with wires and insulated inline connectors. My question is, does connecting the 4 wires with inline connectors affect anything rather than being wire to wire. My plan was to connect them with the connectors to see if the fault goes, then if it does solder them with proper heat shrink. Also does anybody know the part number of audi tt coil conduit, or a decent after market heat shield for the wiring. Help and advice really appreciated

Also I have taken the information about the TT bushes and I keeping the old arms and going to replace the bushes with the TT ones for the future. Going to replace the passenger side arm when the weather clears up too