skidmoose

HI this is starting to stress me out now. P1364 - 35 - 00 cylinder 4 ignition circuit : open circuit. Replaced all coil packs and plugs. Checked wiring on top of cam cover, probably has been better in its life but still looks ok. Drives ok till up to temp, then develops a misfire. Any help would be valuable.

It's been on my car for about 3 months now. I had it fitted for the MOT as my downpipe was blowing badly and failed emmisions cos it was leaking that bad.

They do pass emissions I have one of those on mine, although they are a **** fitment, very close to the chassis and knocks sometimes.

What difference does the 2.0 coils make. And do they use the same loom as the 1.8. Is it an advisable mod for reliability

That looks a sweet set up that.

That brilliant Wino thank you for the help. Wiring loom coming tomorrow so I can see what that's like colour wise. Wanted to order a conduate for the top of the cam cover were the wiring goes along the cam cover and into the coil packs but can't seem to find any, spoke to awesome gti and they said they only do it for the 2.0 not the 1.8t. Has anyone made anything or used anot her make part to prevent all the heat on the wiring. What are other people using please.

It's getting proper frustrating now. Went to cadwell park yesterday for a time attack meeting (obviously not on the track) takes about 20/25 mins to get there and the drive is not a steady drive. Got there spent a couple hours there drove home fine not even a hick up. Went to a local event on the way home no problem, got home no issue's. Drove to work today which is about 10 mins away, just round the corner from work started the hesitation on light throttle. Parked up did my shift came out started and boom big misfire. Luckily this time it stored a code. Back to cyl 4 misfire open circuit intermittent. So at least I have something to work with, but it's so random no pattern to it that I a such an unriliable car at the min. Sharkrider I have been looking around and thinking of getting two 8 pin waterproof plugs and joining the loom near the coolant temp sensor to save going all the way to the ecu and messing around with the ecu plug. Just have to wait for the loom to come and see how it looks from there. Anyone want a parts car if this doesn't work lol. Only joking but I am bored of spending money on this now. Well not bored but it is running out yall know what I mean.

Looking at it though it doesn't seem straight forward as I am thinking as there are wires that are the same colour. So trying to match wires from the top to the bottom might get a bit tricky. Anybody got a wiring diagram just for the coil packs, or ignition or even engine bay. I could possible work the rest out.

I am thinking of getting two 8 pin plugs and joining them that way, as solder does react to heat and vibration in an engine bay, so I am told by an auto electrician??!! Anyway I think that's the way I am going. Just been outside eyeing up if it's possible. And if there is a problem down the line I will only have two coils per plug on the loom to deal with. This is all theory at the min lol.

I am having the very same problem. Used to come up intermittent open circuit on cyl 4, so I changed the plug and short loom, but it's still got the same fault as you with no codes being brought up. After inspecting most of the coil loom I think that this is the next step for me. Replacing the full loom, but this job looks quite intense to do cos it goes right back to the ecu and ya have to mess with plugs and stuff.

Thanks for that andy68, that's what I was looking for before the replacement plug. Forgot all about awesomegti . Any one on here done this replacement before, or anyone got a link from a golf site on whats inlovled

Scratch the no codes part. Had a couple of days driving now and the code has come back. P1364 cyl 4 open circuit intermittent. Getting boring now.

Got the plug and wires connected and all seems fine, no code coming back after a hard drive and a steady drive. Got the car right up to temp and think all is good no codes coming back after several scans.....but the engine seems to misfire between 2000 and 2700rpm, no codes but I can definitely feel it, on driving it seems fine and boosts well and pulls like it should, but sat as I go through the Rev range it is defo missing between this rev band. Any clues were my next fix will start. Getting a bit tedious now.

Hi guys, after alot of messing around trying to chase an intermittent open circuit code on cylinder 4 I think I have a dodgy pin/wire on the connector, so ordered a new connector with wires and insulated inline connectors. My question is, does connecting the 4 wires with inline connectors affect anything rather than being wire to wire. My plan was to connect them with the connectors to see if the fault goes, then if it does solder them with proper heat shrink. Also does anybody know the part number of audi tt coil conduit, or a decent after market heat shield for the wiring. Help and advice really appreciated

Also I have taken the information about the TT bushes and I keeping the old arms and going to replace the bushes with the TT ones for the future. Going to replace the passenger side arm when the weather clears up too

Well reesky you should be a betting man. I have put a new bottom arm on the drivers side and problem sorted. I had the strut tops done by a friends garage and he also checked all the bushes while on a ramp (so he said) When removing the bottom arm myself I found the back bush on the arm to be absolutely hanging, shocked that he hasn't seen this. I am know back to working on my car myself as I really can't trust anyone else clearly. Also noticed that the arb bushes are shot while I was doing the arm, so another job to do before MOT, and access doesn't look good but still rather do myself and know it's done correct

I bought the sport cat version of this foolishly thinking I could bolt it straight on, but because it's a 2.5" and the exhaust is smaller I couldn't fit. I am know looking at replacing the rest of the system with 2.5". But this is looking expensive at the moment. I remember when you could get a full cat back stainless for £199 for most vehicles....gone are them days, and before anyone comments I am not that old yet.

Just an update on this frustrating, annoying, kick your dog, slap your wife problem. Finally got the strut top mounts replaced and on test drive all seem good. Then right back to how it was before. Been through all bushes, it's had bottom ball joints, strut top mounts, tie rod ends. Been round arbl for play (nothing) no play in anything I can see all buses good no play in anything i can see.....proper pulling my hair out now and I was bold before I started. As I got to work this morning and went over the speed bump (one of those plastic ones) boom feels like something loose again and when lifting of the brake steering wheel snatches to the left. No problem braking though and loads of meet on brakes from what I can see.

I checked all the bushes when the bottom ball joint and tie rod end where replaced and they all seem ok, and after they where fitted it was tracked up. There is no play on either side tie rods or tie rod ends so in a process of elimination I am swaying towards the top mount!! When turning the wheels on the ground I see that when turning towards right lock, if you back off the steering wheel when turn it right, I can see the road wheel move back and forward which is not right to me. On that basis it still makes me feel like the top mount. Is there an upgrade available from other models or are they all the same, and is it worth doing both sides as they have done same mileage. Oh and thanks guys for your help it's always appreciated.

i have a strange problem that needs help. when I go over speed bumps it feels like something is loose on the front end suspension wise, and also when braking the steering wheel snatches to the left. I have and the bottom ball joints replaced and a shot tie rod end on the drivers side. When these were replaced i managed to look at the rest of the suspension bushes which all seemed ok along with the arb links. I have looked at the springs and all seems ok there too. This problem is becoming very annoying and needs sorting. Any advice would be great. Please dont make me strip another Mk1 VRS

Well finally got enough time off work and when it was light. Go the new (secondhand loom) fitted and all is good. Seems a common problem on these but were mine was chafed was through the holes in the doors, which to me is from poor repairs in the past. There is a plastic ring that covers the inside of the hole (that I found in the door not fitted) and the rubber seal to stop the chafing on the outer side, so to me it's not a bad design, just people that can't be arsed to do things right. Anyway rant over, now back to the body shop so they can sort their poor work out. Cheers guys for your input

Well cover me in chocolate and feed to the lesbians. Why do I do things the long way round, just thought I would have a scoot around the forum to see about the clicking, only to find that my theory was absolute tosh and that it looks like it could be the wiring at fault, well I never. Should have realised that ya really can find everything on here. Well looks like nipping round the corner to rob some more parts off the breaking one I found. I can see light at the end of the tunnel......but it's very faint at the min.

So came home from work just before it got dark today so thought I would have a quick play, swapped the module over and nothing different, so plugged the new (ish) reg and motor in and that does exactly the same Both reg/motors do the same, just click. Same results on both the drivers main switch and the rear switch, even tried the drivers rear switch in the passenger rear door (the one with the fault) and that was the same. Now I will never claim to be an electric but if the motor is clicking I would asume that there is power getting to the motor thus eliminating the wiring from the B pilaf (in theory) but both motors do the same and all switches do the same. What am I missing apart from smakn my head again the wall. Now got to wait till next sun light when I finish work.

Well proper result, the one that popped up on ebay was only round the corner from me and had loads of bits that I needed. Also managed to strip the motor and regulator out of his car, so now I know how to get it out with risking damaging any of my parts, also got a full set of mint door handles and a front wing in the same colour, also met a really top guy that is doing a 20v turbo conversion on mk2 golf. All that for an extremely reasonable 35 smakers. RESULT I am a happy bunny. Now just need the car home as her in doors is at work again so I can get it all sorted.

Her in doors is at work in the car so can't look at it yet (cheers wife) I am assuming the module is were the electric plug goes in, am I right in thinking that, I am only looking at images on Google at the min. Looking at them can't see how to separate them, but will wait for the car to come back and hope it's not dark so I can see. Thanks for all info, everything is great fully received and taken in.