AdoksNick

Octavia MK 3 Scout, 2l 184bhp DSG .RH drive (UK) Replaced the battery at c. 85,000 miles when I bought the car early 2022. Installed a Lucus AGM Lf096, marked with 'Stop Start' on the casing. Got it from Tayna, with 4 years warranty. It replaced a similar AGM (can't recall). A friend who's an RAC man, helped me with the install because I was concerned about coding the new battery. He was adamant that coding was unnecessary as the car would learn, and the battery was very similar (different brand but same spec). It's just started struggling to start the engine a few times this last few months, since autumn, taking as much as 3-5 seconds compared to previous almost instantly every time since install. This Christmas got a dashcam. The accessories socket stays live 24/7. Installed VIOFO A329S on Christmas Eve. Drove Christmas Day, & then not until 31st Dec. Absolutely dead flat battery. No central locking, nothing. Unlocked driver's door using the physical lock under the cover. Other doors don't open/unlock even using inside handles. Tried a 12V 2.1A battery into cigarette socket. It was enough to trigger alarm, and allow alarm off using key fob, but not to unlock central locking before the cigarette socket accessory plug melted. Can't open bonnet with passenger doors closed. However the lever does clip off if you pull it away from the panel. Pair of square nosed pliers then allowed me to turn the mechanism & release bonnet catch. Handle just clips back in. Multimeter measured 8V across battery posts. Used charger for 12 hours. 12.8V. Removed charger. Left battery overnight to rest. Remeasured, 12.4V. Should be 12.7V or more. Reconnected charger another hour or so until it turned off. Removed charger. Left few hours. Remeasured, 12.45V. Drove to Bedford Battery Co in Northampton, they checked it. Defo knackered, 12.3V & other KPIs low. Bought new Yuasa 9000 (similar spec) AGM. Fitted it myself. Contacted an ex VAG engineer, adamant does not need recoding. The self learning is enough alledgedly. Sure enough, like last time, all warning lights went out just fine. Tayna will honour the warranty subject to their tests & despite my honesty telling them I left dashcam on for 6 days. HOWEVER, the recoding thing bothers me. So much disagreement out 'there' as to the importance & effect, including AI chats etc. I don't have any software tools... yet.

I've a 2015 Scout. Had it 3 years. Rear wiper has always squarked/juddered over the glass. Replaced the blade ever year (c. 10k miles per year) with various premium blades. Makes no difference to the noise. I've also had a new arm fitted. Still squarks. I've asked the Skoda dealer in Northampton, they had no clue unsurprisingly. With metal arm wipers the trick that works every time is to very slightly twist the metal wiper arm (using two adjustable spanners, to tune the blade drag angle over the glass (been driving for 47 years always maintained my own cars, except 17 yrs of company cars including 4 other Octys). The rear Scout arm is plastic so this tweak is not possible. However I'm considering heating the rear arm enough to allow a slight twist. I think a hot air gun might work if applied very carefully.

Many thanks @Carlston, much appreciated. Seems that KwikF can only get the 94W and or 98Y, and have a 10% off deal on multiple tyre orders of the Mich CC2. But if the higher spec is cheaper, and still a decent ride compared to the market in general, then who cares if it's over spec'd? However, had a couple of very interesting emails from a local race tyre specialist, https://www.motmotorsport.co.uk/ who I'm now getting to source and fit. So he's getting me the 94W, as he is almost as competitive as KwikF, but I'm certain is on a different level regarding knowledge and meticulousness, and has spent some time typing those emails - rather support him and use him regularly. He explained one can adjust (increase) the pressure to get higher efficiencies if desired, for example. So I'll have fun playing with the pressures to measure the effect on efficiency, while knowing that I can also get the high level of comfort that my fiancé appreciates on those longer trips together by dropping the pressure back to 'standard'. Win-win!

Many thanks @MicMac , grateful for the reply. There seems to be a 94W and a 98Y available in the Michelin CrossClimate 2 so, agreed, it's sort of academic in my case as both meet with my original equipment spec and with my vehicle's capability, except that KwikF shows the 98Y as both cheaper (a few quid only) and more fuel efficient, so I'm getting those fitted. Just hoping that the other benefits revealed in TyreReviews study ring true for the 98W (tests being done on the 94W). From other readers' perspective though, who might go with cheaper, and lower spec tyres: I would advise caution toward corporations, especially financial ones such as insurers, assuming they might be inconsistent, illogical and unfair. Thus using the VIN/OEM/Options sticker as a guide to determine what the OEM tyre was, and thus use that to spec the tyres as a minimum, seems like a pragmatic way to make sure that an insurer can't wriggle out of coughing up in the event of a claim, nor the magistrates being less merciful in the awful worst case. The speed limit in the UK, after all, is 70mph ('L' speed rating is 75mph).

Old thread but came up in my search for Load and Speed ratings. From the thread, and reading on Google, that UK insurance companies might try to wriggle out of paying up if our tyres are rated below what the vehicle is spec'd with. The handbook (well, my handbook for my 2015 2.0 DSG Scout) doesn't state which tyres spec I should fit, just that I should limit my loads and speed to suit the tyre! Not helpful! The Specification/Options/Data sticker in the boot and in the Service Plan folder does state 'HW6', which apparently translates as "Tires 225/50 R17 94W ". So regardless of what the previous owner fitted, I need to fit 94W as a minimum to be able to avoid any stroppy insurance issues. I guess! As I have a removable tow-bar fitted, I need to take that into account if I might tow anything; I never have, but like that this used car has one fitted as feels like I can slip into off-road superhero mode and save the world! 😄 Or rather drag a sorry arsed neighbour up the hill when it snows next, especially if I get the Michelin CrossClimate 2 tyres that seem to do well in this comparison https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2021-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm

Hi, how did your remedial work? Was this the issue & did your solution work. I have exactly the same issue on a used MK3 scout I acquired recently. Opened the boot this morning after vehicle was parked for 2 days in heavy rain & wind, to find clean water sitting in the gasket, fortunately does not seem to have overflowed inside the boot, though there are minor rust patches in the spare wheel well. Keen to resolve this ASAP. Your reply would be much appreciated, thanks.

I've noticed if you move one fob, it starts flashing again, but so does the other fob even though it's not been moved. So if second (spare) fob is within scanning range for theives, and you keep your main keys safely distant (bedside table perhaps) , the spare might become scannable without you moving it. Slim possibilities, but still. One idea would be set off car alarm in middle of the night by rocking car (if that would do it). Owner disarms alarm with main keys. Thieves now have a few minutes to complete scan while fobs are activated.

Thanks. Seems that it might be a few dodgy mini USB cables and a dodgy USB c cable! Or it might be a slightly loose USB c socket. Definitely was only expecting power. Thanks for the reply.

Thanks for that. Very interesting. Sadly mine is very different indeed to this design, otherwise that would have been perfect, thanks.

Just received my new Octo, has a usb c port in the mirror console on the drivers side, even looks like there is the actual electrical socket behind the hole in the cover. I didn't knowingly order it, but was chuffed to see it there. It's a company car so it's not unusual to get extras not requested as I've found with my previous three Octos. However it doesn't work. I'm hoping that it's simply not connected up & will act all indignant when I take it in to the dealer.