Aredeth90

Close all the other vents, Fans at full blast, get a fishing net and stay close to the vent you dropped it in! And wait Don't do it while driving tho.

I'll be following this thread with great interest. I am too in need of an armrest, and more so for a guide beforehand. R

I recently had my Dial Staging and Anti-Hijack feature done by a fellow member using VCDS. Dial Staging was easy, but the Anti-Hijack options where in german, so it took some translating and checking before we got it working. Please let us know about the key-fob window control, that would be sweet if it works. Regards, R

You will find everyone's take on breaking in is different, with many examples of how and why. You are doing it good that you take it easy for the first hundreds miles. My suggestions are: 1. Make sure before you push the engine ,that the oil is over 70 degrees, ie not cold. 2. To drive in your regular way, BUT DO NOT labor the engine (Change down if you need power and you are not in turbo range). 3. And lastly, even if you have 6k rpm until redline, use the engine according to it's power curve: Max torque is available from 1400 RPM up to 3500 RPM Max power is between 4400 and 5500 RPM That means if you want to push it, there is really no point in going over 5500 RPM if you can help it, as it's out of both max torque and power, i call it the performance cliff. If you follow the advice above, the engine gets used properly up and down the range, and it will reward you with an even quieter sound and more power due to everything being properly worn in, MPG will also increase slightly, depending on your driving habits.

Hi guys, Been looking for a proper interior disassembly workshop manual for a while now, to no avail. I remember i had PDF's for my old Octavia and Fabia, with pictures and instruction of how to remove my door card for example, and other interior trims. Does anyone here have one that they can share? All i want is to remove the door plastic trim to get to the metal bits to stick some Dynamat on them, so if anyone managed to get the door card off, let me know where are the bits that needed undoing. Regards, Aredeth

I have this weekend and the next one free, as my wife is away, and i won't join her until the 23rd. If you want to arrange something, we could potentially set up a meeting. PM me in any case. R

Yes you can, and as it happens, i might be able to help you with a swap to check the noise levels, i have the 185/60 R15 Nexxen N Blue HD, which i find quiet. I am based in London, so i don't know how that might work.

That's what i'm going to do, was hoping for a more elegant solution, my old Passat had a lever under the bonnet to adjust, and that was a 2001 tractor... Anyway, Halfrauds to the rescue! Cheers

So there is no lever, no adjustments to be done for when you drive on the wrong side of the road (*Europe) ? That's unfortunate.

I have found some used ones on Ebay, the reason not going ahead to order is that i'm not sure it's a plug and play process, and before throwing over 250£ on something that i cannot use, i made this topic to check opinions. Thanks!

Hi guys, I would like to start a small project in changing my lights from the regular SE spec to the projector ones on the Monte Carlo. The main reason for doing this - driving through Europe, the rest is for looks. ** As far as i remember on almost all of the projector units you can switch from LHD/RHD lighting, through either a lever under the bonnet or through the infotainment system. So lets assume i find the lights, both left and right, is it a simple swap? I know i kinda need to get the front of the car out, which is no biggie, but are the lights plug and play? Can anyone recommend a place where to actually get the lights? I would love to get them from a place where they break down cars, so i can do a trade in with mine and negotiate a bit. Eurocarparts website had some at around 120£ a piece, so let's say under 250£ for everything. Any suggestions? Thanks so much

I can only comment on the engines, as i test drove both the manual 90 and manual 110 before buying mine. FOR ME, there is a clear difference in low down pull and top end revs between them, the 110 is just a bit more at low revs and near the top end. The reason they are trying to push you towards the 90....well, because they have lots of them. Same thing they were trying to do with me when i put the order for the 110. They had in stock more than 6 with 90hp, but none with 110, so they had to ship it from god knows where. Hold your ground, get a good deal on a 110, and you won't regret it. My two cents. Regards

The highest i've seen as a daily driver was 142 bhp, cannot remember the Nm figures, but somewhere not far north of 200nm, I'm sure with some parts tinkering and better turbo, you can get 175 hp but i don't know if the gearbox will handle the much increased torque.

I had the arches lined with soundproofing material, so not a chance. The thing is, it's rpm related, so the speed doesn't matter as long as i am in the turbo range,but even in free rev i can hear the sound, only from the turbo kick in point, and then the sound increases with RPM. It drives me nuts, especially that the car is really quiet now after the soundproof job. I will listen for it again, as this evening i'm doing an 80 miles trip, most likely the noise will get back...

Just went yesterday for a 10 mile drive, north London traffic late in the evening, so smooth flowing, max 40 mph. The turbo sound came back at half the distance, and i tried to record it, but it's masked by the engine noise. Another try at explaining the sound: * a knife gliding across a gritty ceramic plate (cheap Ikea kind), with no pressure, and imagine that relative to speed of the knife... I will book a visit to the dealer, better have it checked before we go for a small tour of Europe in less than 2 months, and i'm not looking forward to going bang on the Autobahn. Thanks.