Aredeth90

Close all the other vents, Fans at full blast, get a fishing net and stay close to the vent you dropped it in! And wait Don't do it while driving tho.

I'll be following this thread with great interest. I am too in need of an armrest, and more so for a guide beforehand. R

I recently had my Dial Staging and Anti-Hijack feature done by a fellow member using VCDS. Dial Staging was easy, but the Anti-Hijack options where in german, so it took some translating and checking before we got it working. Please let us know about the key-fob window control, that would be sweet if it works. Regards, R

You will find everyone's take on breaking in is different, with many examples of how and why. You are doing it good that you take it easy for the first hundreds miles. My suggestions are: 1. Make sure before you push the engine ,that the oil is over 70 degrees, ie not cold. 2. To drive in your regular way, BUT DO NOT labor the engine (Change down if you need power and you are not in turbo range). 3. And lastly, even if you have 6k rpm until redline, use the engine according to it's power curve: Max torque is available from 1400 RPM up to 3500 RPM Max power is between 4400 and 5500 RPM That means if you want to push it, there is really no point in going over 5500 RPM if you can help it, as it's out of both max torque and power, i call it the performance cliff. If you follow the advice above, the engine gets used properly up and down the range, and it will reward you with an even quieter sound and more power due to everything being properly worn in, MPG will also increase slightly, depending on your driving habits.

Hi guys, Been looking for a proper interior disassembly workshop manual for a while now, to no avail. I remember i had PDF's for my old Octavia and Fabia, with pictures and instruction of how to remove my door card for example, and other interior trims. Does anyone here have one that they can share? All i want is to remove the door plastic trim to get to the metal bits to stick some Dynamat on them, so if anyone managed to get the door card off, let me know where are the bits that needed undoing. Regards, Aredeth

I have this weekend and the next one free, as my wife is away, and i won't join her until the 23rd. If you want to arrange something, we could potentially set up a meeting. PM me in any case. R

Yes you can, and as it happens, i might be able to help you with a swap to check the noise levels, i have the 185/60 R15 Nexxen N Blue HD, which i find quiet. I am based in London, so i don't know how that might work.

That's what i'm going to do, was hoping for a more elegant solution, my old Passat had a lever under the bonnet to adjust, and that was a 2001 tractor... Anyway, Halfrauds to the rescue! Cheers

So there is no lever, no adjustments to be done for when you drive on the wrong side of the road (*Europe) ? That's unfortunate.

I have found some used ones on Ebay, the reason not going ahead to order is that i'm not sure it's a plug and play process, and before throwing over 250£ on something that i cannot use, i made this topic to check opinions. Thanks!

Hi guys, I would like to start a small project in changing my lights from the regular SE spec to the projector ones on the Monte Carlo. The main reason for doing this - driving through Europe, the rest is for looks. ** As far as i remember on almost all of the projector units you can switch from LHD/RHD lighting, through either a lever under the bonnet or through the infotainment system. So lets assume i find the lights, both left and right, is it a simple swap? I know i kinda need to get the front of the car out, which is no biggie, but are the lights plug and play? Can anyone recommend a place where to actually get the lights? I would love to get them from a place where they break down cars, so i can do a trade in with mine and negotiate a bit. Eurocarparts website had some at around 120£ a piece, so let's say under 250£ for everything. Any suggestions? Thanks so much

I can only comment on the engines, as i test drove both the manual 90 and manual 110 before buying mine. FOR ME, there is a clear difference in low down pull and top end revs between them, the 110 is just a bit more at low revs and near the top end. The reason they are trying to push you towards the 90....well, because they have lots of them. Same thing they were trying to do with me when i put the order for the 110. They had in stock more than 6 with 90hp, but none with 110, so they had to ship it from god knows where. Hold your ground, get a good deal on a 110, and you won't regret it. My two cents. Regards

The highest i've seen as a daily driver was 142 bhp, cannot remember the Nm figures, but somewhere not far north of 200nm, I'm sure with some parts tinkering and better turbo, you can get 175 hp but i don't know if the gearbox will handle the much increased torque.

I had the arches lined with soundproofing material, so not a chance. The thing is, it's rpm related, so the speed doesn't matter as long as i am in the turbo range,but even in free rev i can hear the sound, only from the turbo kick in point, and then the sound increases with RPM. It drives me nuts, especially that the car is really quiet now after the soundproof job. I will listen for it again, as this evening i'm doing an 80 miles trip, most likely the noise will get back...

Just went yesterday for a 10 mile drive, north London traffic late in the evening, so smooth flowing, max 40 mph. The turbo sound came back at half the distance, and i tried to record it, but it's masked by the engine noise. Another try at explaining the sound: * a knife gliding across a gritty ceramic plate (cheap Ikea kind), with no pressure, and imagine that relative to speed of the knife... I will book a visit to the dealer, better have it checked before we go for a small tour of Europe in less than 2 months, and i'm not looking forward to going bang on the Autobahn. Thanks.

I just listed to both of the videos from your link, not the same sound. I would have recorded mine, but it just went away...

Hi guys, My little 1.2 tsi 110 just developed a temporary turbo and rev dependant sound, something like a very subtle grinding noise, i needed to have the windows up and music off to hear it. So after i drove the car from Worthing to Guildford on B roads, and overtaking everything,10-15 minutes away from the destination i was hearing the slight noise coming from under the bonnet, from 1600-1700 rpm (turbo pick up rpm) and picking up with the increase in rpm. No power loss, no fault codes. 23 degrees outside temp, water was middle, and oil was 95-96 degrees. Not a mechanical grind, rough, just a slight metallic woosh No sound before the turbo kicks in or at idle. Oil was checked, and was at the proper point on the dipstick. Overtaking was done using 2nd 3rd and 4th, changing gear at max 4700rpm in 2nd, less for 3rd and obv. even less in 4th, not labouring the engine, not getting over 5000rpm at all. So after getting to the destination, i've let the car idle for a bit, as i usually do, then went to eat. After 1 hour and 10 minutes, engine still warm-ish, started driving towards London (motorway), and the sound persisted for 10-15 minutes into the journey, then it was gone. So now my question to you, what could have been causing it? Now that the sound is gone, shall i worry? Book a check-up at the dealer? Car is 1.2 Tsi 110 Manual, 4800 miles, factory fluids. Regards

AgFalco, thanks for your really informative response. I was skeptical about having a real pressure sensor loss in the wheel, as there are no cables or anything that i could see. The wheel speed check is a great explanation and i'm sure that's how it actually knows when to beep. I do need some further explanations tho: 1. Front differential is unlocked (duh), wheels turn at different speeds during a corner, will the system know the steering angle before taking in consideration speed wheel being different? 2. And if the said system know the steering lock, will calculate the angle and speed to determine the rear wheel speed difference? That sounds more complicated, but i am about to do a 1.5k mile trip in late August and driving on the Autobahn with "safety" systems that i do not understand is not comforting. Cheers

For the first issue, the TPMS is indeed saying which tyre pressure dropped, that's how i knew which one to check, and it was right. For checking,I used a pressure indicator, the one with the needle. I did set all 4 as being correct when i last inflated them at the service stop. The last point sounds plausible, as it only happened during acceleration or hard cornering, will keep an eye on when/if it does it again. Thanks

Hi guys, Quick update as i'm about to reach 5000 miles, my tire pressure sensor...is acting up sometimes. Quick acceleration from the lights (no wheels spinning), triggered it and had the unit showing that the pressure on all 4 are incorrect. This is the second time it happened after let's say a bit of spirited driving (all within the legal speed limit and safety of course). First time i had a front right pressure drop of 0.2 (2.3 to 2.1), and the system showed up with a pressure check on the respective wheel, but now all 4 of them lit up with nothing saying whats the problem (pressure loss or gained, just lit up all 4). It all reverted to normal after a switch off and on at the next lights... The actual readings after, all 4 lost 0.05 bar or so over couple of months (2.3 to 2.25 BAR), can it really be so sensitive to pressure drops? Does anyone else has any insight about this? Worth going to the dealer or a tire fix company to stop the slow air leaks? Regards

Not smooth going into reverse here as well, but as i'm not driving backwards usually, i can live with it. It was worse when it was brand new. I hope it will get better with time (miles)....

I've seen many reports of Mk3 users complaining about rattles in the cabin. There are many potential places to get them rattles from, and every car is that tiny bit different, but this are my findings for a right hand drive SE. Passenger side: 1. Plastic cover, pillar of the glove-box. - This was the main culprit at higher speeds, made me look at the pillars, those where the culprit in my case. Solution: I taped some sound absorbing mat on it, stopped the rattles (11£ for 2 sq. meters) 2. Loose screws around the dash. - I've had screws quite loose around the glove-box area and at certain speeds some parts vibrated. Solution: Most could be tightened more than half a rotation in. There are several of them torx screws, use light touch, it's plastic they hold in place (free if you have time + torx screwdriver) 3. Overhead Sunglasses Holder. - Rattles at under 20 mph with glasses inside, as the padding is only on the bottom, the front and rear sides are pure plastic. Solution: I've added some double sided tape on the edges and applied some soft touch material with holes in it (3£, as in 1 £ for a lot of double sided tape and 2£ for the soft touch material) 4.Driver's seat reach and length levers (Glosrich found this out, credits to him) - One of them rattles against the seat (height adj.) the other if you are on the short side, rattles against the center console. Ghetto Solution: Piece of adhesive rubber strip, one agains the center console place where the contact was made with the lever. As i don't have issues with my height adjuster, no solution for that. Driver's Side. 1. Fuse Box Cover - this is basically the same as the other side near the glove-box. Solution: Add some absorbing mat on it, and stick it back in. The absorbing mat i am referring to is something like Silent Coat Tiles. I will try to keep this updated as you fellow members might come with more problems, and even better solutions. Later this evening, a full silicone spray around the plastics will be applied, will report my findings later on today, as i have the feeling that it will make a huge difference for a while, until the silicon dries. Also i am contemplating changing my Mk3 Fabia for a 118i or 120i 2016 Bmw, but that plan is under consideration by someone who doesn't really agree, or understands 50/50 weight distribution, rear wheel drive or rattles or anything these days for that matter. Regards, and keep it coming with anti-rattle posts. Keep that OCD occupied!

Ok, i'd like to give my thanks to Glosrich, it appears that ONE of the rattles was indeed the drivers seat height adjustment, but i need to mention that this will affect only people of average height (when the seat is pushed slightly further). I'm 5.7 and my driving position has the handle touching the plastic trim, so i've put some rubber there and there is less vibration now. As i promised, i will get back as soon as i take the hammer at the Pillars and dent the squeeks right out.

I will have a proper look this Sunday, as my new Fabia SE has the squeeks and rattles, it drives me bonkers. It seems the problem is indeed at the left B Pillar (Glove Box too, RHD), as the b pillar material is firm to the touch, in my opinion it feels like an egg basket you get from wholefoods, so that means that any clips or cables inside (which i'm sure there are) will rattle quite a lot. Does anyone here have any idea how to remove the covers from the B Pillars? It's either that or ripping it off clean and telling me dealer that it simply rattled it's way loose.

Mine rattles as well on a certain type of road at certain speed, really annoying, especially that while i'm driving i can't really jump on the passenger side in yoga positions to listen for the source, but i'm sure it's coming from glove box area. I tend to say that most dealers and their representatives have mild deaf syndrome, or i might be having supernatural hearing, since not a single time they could hear the sound/clink/squeek that some of my cars have had, and those are dealers from all over europe with many makes of cars.