Hightower79
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Posts posted by Hightower79
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27 minutes ago, J.R. said:
Is this not the vehicle type that had the problem of a fractured wire in the alternator excitor circuit?
Does the ignition warning light come on when you switch on the ignition?
I have checked that there is voltage going to the alternator via the 2 pin plug even though it's about 11.5 volts.
Yes, the ignition light does come on with just the ignition on and engine not running. All warning lights go out when running
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15 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:
Trouble is, a new alternator probably wouldn't come with a new pulley, so you might end up only discovering that the problem was the pulley after you'd spent unnecessarily on the alternator, and then have to spend even more on a new freewheel pulley (assuming it has one, which I could check for you if you sent me your VIN in a message).
Is there maybe enough visibility through the vent slots in the casing to see if internals are spinning when engine is running?
Yes, possibly. perhaps stick a piece of paper or the end of a cable tie in and see if it makes a clicking noise when it hits the rotating bits.
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35 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:
Seems a very low mileage for the alternator itself to have failed.
Can you take the aux belt off in order to easily experiment with the freewheel pulley and seeing if it turns the shaft when rotated the normal way.
I would say the 11.something voltages you're seeing at the two-pin connector are normal.
Thanks for your answer. To be honest, if I was going to take the wheel and inner mudgaurd off to get at the tensioner, then I would be buying a new alternator. I was hoping that it might be something like a relay or a fuse, but that is looking unlikely. A few years ago I would have probably looked in to doing this myself but working on axle stands and kneeling on the driveway is just beond me these days. I think it's time I handed the car over to a local garage and have a new alternator and drivebelt fitted.
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17 hours ago, J.R. said:
Did you have flat battery problems causing you to buy the new one or is it simply that the measurements you have taken after fitting the battery do not seem correct?
If it is the latter then perhaps you are doing something wrong with your measuring.
An alternator not charging will not create any fault codes, on a later vehicle with a battery control module it might, if the voltage gets too low you will get fault codes where modules cannot communicate or the higher current ones like electric power steering crash, none of these are likely to show up on a basic OBDII reader.
When you iwas first alerted to a problem it was because my wife couldn't start the car. I fitted a freshly charged new battery in place of the battery that came out. The voltage is 12.7v across the terminals and is exactly the same whilst the engine is running. The lower voltages where from the alternator rear connecter plug terminals. I was expecting 12.7v also not the 11 volt something I got. I was hoping someone could confirm these lower voltages were correct or not.
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1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:
Someone recently had a case of a freewheeling alternator pulley failing in a way that meant the shaft of the alt was no longer rotating.
How many miles has the car done?
about 65000 miles.
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As title.
Brand new battery and Voltage across battery terminals is 12.7v whilst running which is exactly the same as at rest. I checked the voltage on the large connector at back of alternator and is exactly the same and no end of reving will increase voltage.
I checked for voltage on the 2pin push in connector at the rear of the alternator (the one hard up against the water hose) and was only showing 11.3V on one and 11.7V on the other terminal (which both seem low for a live supply)
There are no faultr codes and no warning lights.
Alternator caput or feed to wires needs checking? Any other ideas?
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I've just had my letter as well.
1. Has anyone in the real world had the modification and what were their findings on MPG and power?
2. What effect will this mod have on the DPF with regards, blocking and regeneration?
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I don't mind to be honest. What is important to my wife is that the reversing graphics that are displayed on the Swing are displayed on the new unit.
The rcd510 Dab hasn't go Sat Nav has it? This is the main reason why I'm looking at upgrading.
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I would like to ungrade the Swing in my Fabia TD to a Radio/CD player with Sat Nav. however I would like to retain the reversing graphics when I select reverse gear.
Can anyone suggest a cost effective plug and play upgrade and whether I need a surround?
Thanks!
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Diesel MOTs don't measure any emissions though, except smoke, at the moment.
Expect that to change in the next few years and I'll bet you we'll all pay, though increased MOT costs!
If MOT stations start checking emmissions, what would happen to all those that had remaps done?
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Turned the key to start the engine but instead of immediately purring in to life, there seemed to be a second or two of knocking (like exhaust hitting the body or loose/worn engine mount) or something. I switched off and tried again twice, both times it happened again. I decided to drive on home and everything felt and sounded normal. When I arrived home I turned off engine again and restarted but was okay, no knocking or anything. It's never happened before, anyone experience this before? Perhaps some guidance on what to look out for?
Andy
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If you want to give your motor a bit of loving care I would recommend just replacing the oil with a cheap correctly specced oil without replacing the filter then running it for a couple of days. Oil and filter change with the good stuff and jobs a good one.
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Will VW or the Government make you have this update?
I'm sure that it your affected car is still in warranty then VW will make it a condition of this but if your car is older?
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Could invalidate your insurance (and insurance companies will do anything to wriggle out of a payment) should an accident investigator find out.
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The question I would like to ask is: Will there be a legal requirement to get the remap done or will it on a voluntary basis?
I feel sorry for people with cars still under warranty as I'm sure they'll force you to upgrade, but for owners of older models you might get a choice?
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I hate these DPF's, I would suggest even more engine revs, these small diesels like to be driven hard. Make sure oil is up to temperature and then drive at 70 at about 3500 rpm until light goes out or you get fed up. If it still doesn't go out I'm afraid it'll be a trip to the garage. FYI I saw a video on youtube of a bus DPF being taken off and baked in an oven at 350C for the regeneration cycle and then blown out in a special vacuum/airline encloser.
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I'd like to thank everyone for their help and advice.
I did some homework and it seems a little oil vapour/smoke is normal for this type of engine. I ended up buying the car I was looking at and have been driving it around for a week now. I must say that I am loving the driving experience and am thus far pleased with my new purchase.
Andy
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Thanks for the replys. There wasn't any milky residue on the cap just the smoke/oil vapour coming from the oil fill hole. My experience of diesels are older bigger lower reving engines like the 3.1TD one in my Trooper 4x4 which doesn't smoke at all when the oil fill cap is removed.
Thanks 2ndSkoda for your thorough explanation however I would still welcome any other opinions/experiences from other members.
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I write this post because for a few weeks I've been looking for a new diesel car to replace my wifes smashed up Picanto. I don't have any brand loyaly and have been looking at various makes and models to take advantage of the lower tax bands.
After looking at multiple cars I keep getting the same thing which worries me. Smoke from oil filler cap and/or oil dipstick! Some smoke and some don't but it does seem to smoke more on a VW and Skoda. I've found a nice little Skoda 1.6TDI 90, 2011 car with 52000 miles and full service history that I want to buy and hence my post.
I don't buy many cars and have them for a long time due in part to buying the right car in the first place. When I go and look at a car I make sure it's started from cold, and see if there is anything ominous comming from the exhaust first. I very breifly remove the oil filler cap slowly to see if there is any smoke coming out from there and to check for white residue under the cap, and then the same with the oil dipstick. After that I take the car out for a good drive on the nearby roads and then check to see if there's smoke comming out the exhaust, and then the same with the oil filler and oil dipstick again. After this trip there was already a little wisp of smoke coming out from under the cap but after I removed it there was a lot of dirt sitting between the seal or the cap and the rocker cover (not doubt caused by dirt collecting around the oil fill recess) that had prevented a proper seal.
Can I ask forum members that have experience of this engine to confirm if it's normal to get oil smoke coming out of the oil fill hole on this model of Skoda please.
Thank you for looking,
Andy
1.6TDI 2011 isn't charging and no codes.
in Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)
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It's discharged 3 times now. I am alternating battery's as I have two. The original one in the car was only fitted 2 years ago and the other one is a brand new unit that I had bought for my truck a few months ago and not fitted yet. The voltages taken was directly after I fitted a newly charged battery and was more of a demonstration that it is reading the same voltage before and after engine was running thus coming to the conclusion the alternator isn't outputting voltage.
I am not sure why you are questioning a lack of info about vehical age, engine type etc? The title of my post has 2011 1.6TDI and it obviously is a Fabia 2 as that's why I posted it on this forum. I have even mentioned milage in this thread! I wasn't aware however that they sold this model with start stop. This one doesn't have it.