gRoberts

I've heard nothing but praise for the seasucker/rockbros suction based mounts. I generally drop the seats and put them in the back of the car. I'd sooner strap the kids to the roof, no one would want to steal them

I get "use break pedal" on my DSG/ACC equipped MY19. Kinda disappointing as a rented VW Passat with ACC would slow to a stop and kill the engine when in traffic and then automatically start up and drive off as it progressed again. Octavia however, once the car is coming to a complete stop, if I put my foot on the brake like it asks, it won't set off again, I have to manually press the accelerator and reset the ACC.

I seem to have a recurring issue with mine, that I'm not sure if it's the power supply, or the car but on both my MY17 and MY19 Octavia's, the dashcam would often only power up once the start/stop has kicked in and the engine stops. Worked fine on my Fabia VRS, in the same fuse location.

I think you're missing my point. I'm not suggesting you withhold this from your insurer, just the other party who was involved in the accident. It is then down to your insurance company to use accordingly.

Anyone likely to go "Reggie Kray" on you is more likely to try and retrieve the dashcam than admit to guilt. All you should be doing in the event of an accident is taking pictures, exchange details and say nothing beyond making sure they are ok. If it was intentional, the offender may react negatively and lead to confrontation if they know they've been recorded. Saying nothing, only benefits you. Of course, it's personal preference, so feel free to do what you want You have no legal obligation to provide it, even if asked. It should be provided to your insurance company who will decide if they want to declare it straight away, or, if they feel there is potential fraud they have been known to sit on the evidence, allowing them to continue lying and then present the evidence to dismiss the claim and then present to the police for CPS to decide if it's worth pursuing.

Why show your cards at a poker game? Insurance companies will jump on anything, no matter how small to try and worm out of a payout. You'd be amazed how people inflate claims and when you're stuck with a whiplash claim for 5 people after a cash for crash scenario, having that ace up your sleeve can allow them to incriminate them selves out of any claim what so ever.

I've got a Rexing V1P, which is barely noticeable and if you have the passenger visor down, it's barely noticeable from inside the car too. If you ever get involved in anything, never let the other person know you have a dashcam. Just swap details and get your insurance involved. You'd be amazed how many people will try and lie about the accident, i.e. how many people, fault etc.

Certainly a useful, but unexpected feature. My wife and I just looked at each other and sighed thinking I had just hit something and the noise it made could only mean £££ but when I got out I was miles away from anything and even then it was a shrub lol. Hey ho, another "simply clever" situation

I've got pauper spec on mine, so only reverse sensors but good to know!

Silly question - but does having "Front Assist" also protect you from the rear? I was reversing into a spot last night and went in a little faster than usual and the reverse sensor went to a solid tone and it felt like I had hit a brick wall (sounded like it too) however I had about a foot of space behind me and hadn't hit anything. ABS sounded like it had activated too.

To clarify, I'm referring to the MTE (miles to empty), once you reach 0, it's literally a lottery as to how far you get. You should really fill up, before or as the car says it's time to refuel. Taking aside the potential damage (it's often debated) of running the tank dry, should you get stuck in a situation where you cannot leave your car, or you're faced with a diversion etc, you may not have enough fuel.

Your car will tell you when you have approx 1 gallon left of fuel. The MTE however is based upon your long term MPG average if I recall correctly. As @gregoir said though, put some fuel in, even a small amount. Don't take the risk, as it's far from accurate.

My 1.4 MK3 Octavia went back in December 18 and I spent £60 getting a tiny scuff sorted on the rear bumper and left a scratch on the silver moulding on the door card (someone let go of the seatbelt too quickly) and they didn't pick up on it. Make sure you give it a good clean first and they tend to be a lot happier. It also helped that it was pi**ing it down the day they came to inspect it

I am getting that exact same message my self. When the car auto locks when driving away, sometimes I'll hear a single clunk and others a double clunk. Not sure if it's the door open alarm, but noticed that after unlocking the car and opening the drivers door, I had went back to the house quickly to get something and a minute or so later, the alarm started going off. Annoying thing is, the car locks fine, and alarm functions fine, i.e. interior monitors, doors etc all arm/lock properly. As there isn't anything obvious happening and the clunking noise isn't really an "issue" to report, I haven't bothered to mention it yet. I will have to at some point though, as I don't want it coming up as an issue when handing it back next year. This is on my 1.0 TSI.

I've had this on my 1.0 TSI - I always thought it was the water pump keeping water moving around the engine to help cool things down after a drive?

I had mine randomly go off and wouldn't respond to changing radio stations and volume. Even a soft reset didn't seem to fix it but leaving the car for a few hours did. Quite possible your dashcam has the wires too close to the aerial/wires etc

I've resigned to the fact that I can't really justify a diesel car any more, but when I was driving more/longer distances, my MK3 Mondeo 130 and Bora PD130 were mile munchers, regularly getting 74mpg when plodding along at 65mph. Whilst I miss the pull/torque of those two engines, I definitely don't miss the sounds and smells they kicked out.

https://www.racechip.co.uk/shop/skoda/octavia-5e-from-2012/1-0-tsi-999ccm-115hp-85kw-200nm.html 200nm stock + 60 with the chip. Annoyingly, when I bought it, it was advertised as +35 HP, but it's now +19 HP. Thankfully some are still advertising it with the values I was quoted when I bought it, as I was starting to think I was going mad https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Skoda-Octavia-5E-1-0-TSI-12-115-HP-RaceChip-GTS-Chip-Tuning-Box-Remap-35Hp/163029938946?fits=Model%3AOctavia|Cars+Type%3A1.0+TSI&hash=item25f5577302:g:iFQAAOSwqrZa6pZ0

I went from the 1.4 150, to the 1.0 115 and with the RaceChip, it's taken it back up to 150 but 260NM. Would have been interesting to see what the 1.4 150 would be like with a racechip on

I think most of the issues I have come across are where App's have been added to OBDEleven based on Pre-FL MK3 Octavia's and users are trying to apply them to FL MK3 Octavia's. Then you have people who assume that applying an App is all you need to do, where as you often have to make sure certain conditions are met and then after applying, carry out resets etc. When I last bothered with the App's, I recall that it didn't really check the versions of the hardware/software I had, it simply tried to apply it. It's probably changed a bit since, but by the sounds of it, not by much. That all being said, of the times I've used the App's, I'd say 95% it has worked properly.

Voluntary termination is what they're referring to. If all is ok with the car etc you can usually hand it back half way and not pay any more. When I done it a few years ago. You were expected to have paid at least half the total amount (not always 2 years, worth checking your finance docs) but I just sent them a letter stating I wanted to voluntarily terminate the contract and they got back with any additional costs, proceedures etc. HTH

Quite surprised you were given the option, however I would assume that a VAG Branded retailer would only supply and fit authorised parts, so if they have offered you anything but the genuine products, I'd personally assume it was acceptable. That being said, it really boils down to why you are asking. i.e. maintaining warranty, returning the vehicle etc

Depends on your lease type. PCH insists on you using an authorised VW retailer. https://www.vwfinance.co.uk/en/privatecustomers/how_agreements_work/solutions_pcp/during_your_agreement.html Use the navigation on the left to select your lease type and then click on the "What to do during your agreement" link at the bottom of the pages which should explain servicing requirements.

The screen you are looking at is based on the assumption that you are on either a fixed or variable service and then based on how you drive your car etc. Based on the inspection/oil service dates, I would hazard a guess you have it set on variable service (2 years) but ultimately you need to look at the owners manual to get the service intervals and base it on the age/mileage of the car.

I miss my 1.4 SE Sport Manual which was replaced with the 1.0 SE Tech with DSG combined with a RaceChip to bring it back up to 150. Not sure if it's the DSG, or the 1.0+RaceChip, but it's nothing compared to the 1.4 I had.